Just dropped a deposit on some M Power - Trackday Project Car

[Gibbo]

I suppose the next step is engine modification? Or are you drawing the line at that?

Impressive results, - have you tried a standard e46 M3 in direct comparison? - I imagine it'll feel relatively dull by comparison, quite a feat in itself!

The line is drawn, all that might get done in the distant future is cams as they are a further good 20 or so horsepower.

Compared to a stock full weight M3 with SMG you'd not think they were the same, infact you'd think I have over 100 horsepower more how quickly I pull away.

The only advantage a regular M3 has over mine at present is grip due to more weight and decent road tyres, probably more tyre though. I'll change the cups at somepoint to something more suitable for the road.

 

[Scania]

Nice one, I think cams would be good without ruining it, although it could be the start of a slippery slope! - just think, cams and supercharger.....
And decent tyres yes, I'd guess that would be the greater factor, it's light for sure but still weighty in the grand scheme of things...
Cheers for the reply, keep the updates coming, I follow with great interest.

 

[Gibbo]

Hi there


So I got my TTFS tune / map kit in the post today, took about 3-4 days to come from US and no VAT/Duty was charged which is great but end of the day it is just a USB cable and some wire/hose and a sensor.

Here is a picture of everything you got (excluding CSl IAT sensor):

I've gone down this route to improve drivability and adaptability and should I ever add cams the CSL map/ECU has far higher resolution maps. TTFS offer to convert old ECU's (MSS54HP) to full CSL spec if you mail them your ECU. I did not need this as I so happened to have a genuine CSL ECU.


So my difficulty has being ok now I have the parts but what on earth do I do with them, well I scoured the internet but not found a concrete easy to follow guide, but again TTFS emailed me a document which goes into some detail, I shall post the important steps as hopefully it will help others who don't want to run Alpha-N or wish to move away from Alpha-N type setups:

Here is screenshots of the guide TTFS emailed me so all thanks goes to them:

With this guide I am now quite happy to tackle this, to summaries.

Cut into brake booster line, place vacuum T (was included part of kit) and position map sensor facing downwards. This is better than OEM design due to the sensor not getting baked by the engine.

Then run the small wire supplied with pin from the white (sensor output) from the map sensor into the blank space on the DME connector, nice and easy to do.

Then remember the colour of the two wires from the DME connector and splice into the relevant ones, shall get a local garage to solder these in for me as not confident about cutting in harness and soldering, I know its easy but will let someone do it who is comfortable with soldering.


The other mission is to find a solution for mounting the CSL IAT sensor as it does not use a nut/thread like the typical sensor included in IAT relocation kits but have seen a few ideas for this such as below from searching the web of what other users have done with air boxes such as the Geoff steel:

So I can either use some modified washers it seems to lock it in place or actually take the sensor down and add a thread to it, a job for a garage for sure as will need some tools.


Once this is done and installed I shall take some pictures and of course I shall comment on how the car feels to drive and how the tune feels. I shall be getting another dyno run done to see how the power curve and power compares to Evolves Alpha-N tune.

The negative side of this is I kind of really wasted my money with the Alpha-N but at the time I was not aware of the map sensor option and the CSL tuning and experience TTFS have.

 

[Simon]

Looks a bit of a bodge !

 

[Gibbo]

Looks a bit of a bodge !

Well its not really as this was has the CSL setup was, differences being CSL had a modified air rail with the map sensor on the rail, but still not particular visible as covered by pollen filter housing. This method has the same effect, but installing into the brake booster line is not only better for sensor longevity but is also completely out of sight, you can't see it or the wires or vacuum hosing at all.

The CSL IAT is more of a pain, as on the genuine BMW air box it pushes in, I could actually modify my air box potentially to have this OEM look, but the location is poor due to heatsoaking issues and I don't particular want to drill into the air box. So I shall find a way of mounting it or as you say bodging it as per the images, but again once installed it is all out of view.

Not like I am building a show car anyway, I just want the cars drivability to improve and any improvement in power curve/peak power is a bonus.

 

[Simon]

The CSL setup will have proper fittings, not washers or tapping into Carbon. Its also using scotch locks to hack into the ECU load signal (map sensor). Anything like this is always a compromise on reliability - ignoring the cosmetic bits. I dont agree with the brake booster being a good place for a mao sensor either.


Alpha N was always going to lose driveability.

 

[Gibbo]

The CSL setup will have proper fittings, not washers or tapping into Carbon. Its also using scotch locks to hack into the ECU load signal (map sensor). Anything like this is always a compromise on reliability - ignoring the cosmetic bits. I dont agree with the brake booster being a good place for a mao sensor either.


Alpha N was always going to lose driveability.

The map sensor I shall be soldering in, not using scotch links, already said this in my post.

As explained the CSL setup has the map sensor on the air rail with a proper fitting and the IAT sensor has a proper fitting on the air box but it heatsoaks, again already explained.

Onto the brake booster line being good, well think your wrong there, before I even spoke to TTFS I spoke to other people who tune and build race cars and their comment was why you looking at buying a BMW air rail, just t-piece the map sensor into a vacuum line or brake booster, it will work absolutely fine as they'd done it on other cars and achieved 100% of what was required.

When I spoke to TTFS they said to me, we can supply you a modified air rail to give you a very good OEM CSL look that is not bodged but as to reliability and performance it offers no improvement.

So the map sensor in the brake booster is 100% fine.

 

[HummuH1]

A wee bit OT, but on the dynos (which I know nothing about), is it the Wheel BHP that is being measured and then Engine BHP calculated by applying some form of standard "transmission loss", or vice versa?

I ask because in my simple mind the WBHP graph should be closer in shape to the Engine BHP graph throughout the entire rev range? At peak WBHP, on the 2nd dyno for example, WBHP is 262BHP and EBHP is 380BHP.

Unless I'm reading it totally wrong that would be appx. 31% transmission loss which sounds huge with the loss getting bigger after that. Did they account for difference in diff ratio?

My brain can't understand that

 

[Gibbo]

A wee bit OT, but on the dynos (which I know nothing about), is it the Wheel BHP that is being measured and then Engine BHP calculated by applying some form of standard "transmission loss", or vice versa?

I ask because in my simple mind the WBHP graph should be closer in shape to the Engine BHP graph throughout the entire rev range? At peak WBHP, on the 2nd dyno for example, WBHP is 262BHP and EBHP is 380BHP.

Unless I'm reading it totally wrong that would be appx. 31% transmission loss which sounds huge with the loss getting bigger after that. Did they account for difference in diff ratio?

My brain can't understand that

Yeah stupid maha dyno, they don't use a form of standard transmission loss, they dyno tries to calculate it accurately and as such changes like tyres, wheel size, pressures, temperatures on the day should have no effect on corrected figure.

When the car ran on a dyno-dynamics which is a wheel horsepower dyno and then uses a form for standard transmission loss it made 308WBHP / 369BHP crank, this was with cats in place.

 

[acemastr]

Come on over! you can take me out in it

When are the real power mods being made? I demand a supercharger, then you're free to brag all you like

 

[Gibbo]

Come on over! you can take me out in it

When are the real power mods being made? I demand a supercharger, then you're free to brag all you like

Staying NA all the way, a supercharger would spoil the way it drives, especially on the road. Friend has a very similar M3 to mine, about 1400kg and is running the ESS 575BHP supercharger kit, on the road it can still spin the wheels in 5th gear.

As such he has now turned it into a complete track only car, so full slicks, full cage, 1300kg and on track it is much better as it can put the power down due to slicks/wets being far more stickier and plenty of heat.

Supercharger in an M3, great if your still at full weight on a road car, otherwise wheelspin city.

I will be happy with 380-400BHP NA, it goes OK.

 

[acemastr]

So what's next?

 

[Gibbo]

So what's next?

Get the diff in, cage and trackdays, it is pretty much complete, so drive it, fix it, drive it.

 

[Swagger187]

Impressive car man, good power from that an all. Do love a good M3

 

[Gibbo]

Hi there

Was not going to add these until I had got the wheel re-trimmed but as it's a 5 minute job why not:

They are Storm SMG paddles with glowing - and + along with neoprene backing! the quality is superb and I love the micro switch/click they have, something any SMG owner should do.

 

[hartgeh3]

Love abit of Storm goodness

 

[rjk]

Like the glow. Matches the dials well.
Is there much work involved in getting them installed? Guessing they replace the whole switch unit but is there much needed to get the power to the lighting?

Or is it just a plug and play job?

 

[Gibbo]

Like the glow. Matches the dials well.
Is there much work involved in getting them installed? Guessing they replace the whole switch unit but is there much needed to get the power to the lighting?

Or is it just a plug and play job?

Just a screw driver and takes five minutes, very easy.

Am off to anglesey tomorrow to drive the coastal and GP layout of the circuit, cups are back on and forecast is sunny. Can't wait just a shame about 5am start.

 

[tsinc80697]

Just a screw driver and takes five minutes, very easy.

Am off to anglesey tomorrow to drive the coastal and GP layout of the circuit, cups are back on and forecast is sunny. Can't wait just a shame about 5am start.

I think there's a bright blue GTR going tomorrow, will be difficult to miss! Met the owner last week and he mentioned he was going this weekend I think.

 

[Gibbo]

I think there's a bright blue GTR going tomorrow, will be difficult to miss! Met the owner last week and he mentioned he was going this weekend I think.

There is a GTR booked on, hoping it stays dry as cups are down to 2-2.5mm, but always wanted to drive the circuit and at £139 for a full day with less than 30 cars booked and pretty much guaranteed dry weather, had to go for it.