Kitchen build log with structural work

Good stuff. Watching this closely!

We got our Diykitchen quote yesterday, 30000 down to 4000! Only compromise is colour as you cant do custom painted gloss with them.

Yeah the regulations are odd but sound. Like you can't have full height units either side of gas hob, but makes sense when explained.

I hope all goes to plan, make sure you check it for damage within 10 days!
 
did you plaster directly on top of the artex ?

following: as i have something very similar (albeit a touch smaller) coming soon
 
We've gone for painted units over gloss for the ease of making it look like it's cleaner for longer (fingerprints!), it will be fitted within 10 days of delivery so checking for damage shouldn't be a problem. It wasn't so much about the regulations sounding odd, we'd copied a design from their showroom which wouldn't have been questioned at all apart from by our fitter by which time it would be too late.

Artex over the ceiling was scraped smoother then plastered on top, on the red kitchen wall with the door the full layer of plaster was removed and replaced with plasterboard, the red around the window was skimmed straight on top of.

Calcs for the beam (splitting the room) were submitted for the entire span, the wall was brought out by a breezeblock because that corner has a join between 4 walls (although only 2 of them load bearing). Signed off no problem. The concrete beam over the new doorway didn't need building regs because it was an internal non-structural wall (found it completely hollow above, could have rebuilt the whole wall out of timber for the door if needed).
 
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Skiddley said:
Did the building inspector sign off the beam without red plasterboard across the entire span?
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Just had 5 rsj's installed in my house none were red boarded all we double boarded instead which apparently gives sufficient fire resistance and is loads cheaper, it's a nonsense rule in a domestic build.
 
a1ex2001 said:
Just had 5 rsj's installed in my house none were red boarded all we double boarded instead which apparently gives sufficient fire resistance and is loads cheaper, it's a nonsense rule in a domestic build.
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Just curious as the 3 we just put in, we were told in no uncertain terms to ensure fireboard was used. The inconsistency baffles me.
 
Skiddley said:
Just curious as the 3 we just put in, we were told in no uncertain terms to ensure fireboard was used. The inconsistency baffles me.
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Building regs isn't a precise thing it's all down to interpretations and some building inspectors can be much more of a pain than others as they become sticklers over certain things which are very rarely black and white in the regs you can after all for example paint the beams with fireproof paint and leave them exposed. We have used an independent company for our last two projects and they were much better than the council inspectors they actually applied common sense and there was none of the jobs worth stance we have had in the past.
 
Finally quite a bit of progress, memory card with the painting pics has gone walkies so there's a bit of a jump with the progress.

Original kitchen still functioning, room painted with 3-4 coats of tradepaint white, didn't seem to cover very well.

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Floor had to be chipped out to help with the levelling, then re-filled

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Kitchen arrived last week, managed to find enough space in the house to store it ready for the fitter.

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Room was painted over the weekend after many arguements, eventually "denim grey" was bought and it looks great in contrast with the off white cabinets and white features.

Fitter started to place the pre-assembled units in place, but left the gap in the middle for some reason, this was quickly corrected.

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Pan drawers? Might need a few more...

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Wasn't too happy with the boxing in, basically we were advised by the fitter to buy a cabinet and they would box in behind it. When they came to fit it we were left with 2cm of cupboard space, might as well have left it as wall for that space!

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A few more pictures of the wall units going in:

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Still a lot more to do, island unit to design, lighting to fit, gas, floor selection etc, but finally building the room rather than destruction! Had a delayed start due to a couple of cabinets been damaged in transit and ALL the legs missing for the floor units. This was quickly resolved.
 
rexehuk said:
With talks here of 500... Oh so tempting to do this. Was planning 2 meter bifold and 2x2 meter glass pane... However a full span bi-fold would be beautiful.
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these are 2200mm wide and 2500mm tall. Really make a difference BUT they are sails if its windy

Rear Lounge BiFolds


DIY Kitchens for the Utility (wanted to make sure we were happy with the quality so tested with the Utility room.

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More than happy to put them in the main Kitchen.



OP looking good mate. Have you decided on flooring yet.
 
Karndean flooring seems to tick all the boxes, both rooms had laminate before (standard diy supermarket stuff) which had been down for ~10 years and lasted well so not too worried about wear and tear, but the floor isn't perfect and we're a bit worried such a long length wouldn't be great with a locking system, risk of cracks. I'd love a dark grey wood effect floor but browns would work too with the wall and cabinet colours.

Next on the list is to find a bi-fold internal door to go between the conservatory and the kitchen, eventually this will become the sitting room at the back of the house once a solid roof and new glazing goes in.
 
The cost of ceramic over Karndean is nearly twice as much, while the floor isn't perfect most of the problem area will be covered by the centre island unit. Had most of the raised area chipped out and re-laid, the dining room side which will have the table top and chairs is flat as that still has the original floor from the house being built. The kitchen side had some self levelling poured when the old kitchen went in 20 years ago, but the join between the two rooms is where it's not that great although it's mostly been corrected.

Looking at about 18sqm of flooring.
 
We've recently replaced our old floorboards with new caberfloor, and a kardean fitter said he may still overboard..........:eek: Ideally I think they want it billiard table smooth...

Had you had anyone round yet to quote then they can see/check the floor.

We can't find a Karndean we both can agree on. I cant get my head around it looking like wood but feeling..Not wooden.

Some fitters though are Artists.
 
Not had anyone around yet, hoping to start that next week. Last 10 days have been a bit of a rush getting bits done, not expecting the kitchen fitter to be finished until middle/end of next week.
 
Fitter has finished for now, a few small hiccups along the way usually from a "measure twice, cut once" issue. It's small things like cutting the worktop from both ends so we needed to source some new edging, or drilling a carcass from the outside then remembering it isn't going to have an edging panel. This one though was a bit of a shock, the sink was measured from the centre of the cupboard, instead of using the plan where it was shown to measure from the edge as the cabinet is smaller.

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Handles going on all units and island unit being measured up

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Sides on the "bin store"

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Distance between island and drawer units, was trying to get as close to the 1200mm "lifetime home" recommendation but due to the pillar for the steel it had to be reduced to 1100mm. There is a 1400x1700 turning area at either side of the island.

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Other side of the island unit with the seating area/drop in worktop.

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Cooker and hood finally in place. We did have space for one of the 5 burner hobs, but most of them had the wok in the centre making the other 4 burners useless so we went wiith a standard hob.

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Shot of the kitchen

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Seating area, chairs fit either way (side by side or opposite). Looked at getting a small table instead for flexibility but this offered more table space.

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Kitchen mostly complete. Waiting for sparky for fitting oven and lights, floor people were round this week and suggested waiting 2 more weeks for the concrete in the floor to fully set. Fridge and freezer enclosure can't be built until the floor is in.

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Seeing how much flooring costs (labour/correction) and a few other expenses, total cost for this is still well under £20k which is easily "paid for" with the equity in the house as the space is so much better.
 
Space looks good and some good ideas prior to doing mine!

Did you consider putting the gas hob in the island? I'm considering doing mine like that but not sure if its worth the effort (chasing gas pipes under concrete floor etc.)

Did you not want the sink to centre with the window? (is that normal?)

Also I'm guessing time constraints is why you did the floor after fitting the units, is it not easier to do them beforehand?

What type of worktop? Laminate?

When I do similar I'm hoping to get it under £10k... :x. (less kitchen units however)
 
My OCD was twitching with your handle placement

I've googled it..It ok you can have them in the same place as yours or in the middle....The world is right again.
 
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