Knowing when to call it a day

[LowEndTorque]

I am in a similar situation like yourself Wayne. Have spent a lot on my 59 plate Mondeo which has recently clocked 125k. Clutch, DMF, Timing Belt Water pump, etc. It still has the subframe corrosion on the advisory and the rear springs. It's going to be a nightmare job to replace the springs because of the corroded nuts and bolts. Guess if the next big bill is anywhere around a grand I will have to pull the trigger.

It is never going to be a straightforward decision. You may fix something now, only for something else to break and cause more grief leaving you wondering if only I had not spent that money on repairs and rather used it in buying a better and newer car.

 

[413x]

It's always a bit of a stinger when a load of consumables come at once but if anything that is a reason to keep hold of it.

The time to call it quits in my opinion is one of three factors;

1) You simply want or need a change of car
2) Rust... If you get significant rust on a car you'll be chasing it forever. Not so much of an issue on most cars.
3) Major engine or gearbox issue. Something that is going to need a replacement engine or gearbox. That said, if points one and two weren't a factor I wouldn't necessarily let that be the end for the car.

By far number 1 is the biggest factor.

Our Peugeot 207 automatic had a great box fault.
Luckily a service (200)seems to have fixed it. But if it has been 2000+ for a new box? That's when I'd have changed cars.

 

[shadow_boxer]

In a similar position. 2009 Honda Civic, nearing 140,000 miles, battered shed (was a second run around /tip car until recently). Had new clutch and suspension work last year but looks like some more costly bills incoming too.

 

[Illusion]

This is the level of support I needed, two headlights to replace the cloudy ones (Fool before me fitted aftermarket HIDs which ruined them from inside) and on the hunt for a less rusty bonnet.

Now to trace the window washing issue.

I have a 2009 FN2 just about to hit 120k and I have these same thoughts from time to time. It’s landed me a few ~500ish bills over the years but it’s now had all calipers replaced, new clutch and both front shocks replaced (which is a common item to fail on them I believe)

So when the costs are averaged out over the years it’s not that much. It helps that my mileage is pretty low too

What’s the window washing issue? My jet washers stopped working a few months ago and there was just a small filter on the back of the washer tank that needed a clean

 

[kmax86]

Another 2010 civic owner here and approaching 10 years of ownership. Most recent bill was the back axle replacement due to rust. The next will be clutch/DMF as I sense some slipping. Trying to be gentle to prolong it while pondering if I should replace it.

The car is still fully functional and drives well. But it feels very "tired".

 

[Wayne~]

Another 2010 civic owner here and approaching 10 years of ownership. Most recent bill was the back axle replacement due to rust. The next will be clutch/DMF as I sense some slipping. Trying to be gentle to prolong it while pondering if I should replace it.

The car is still fully functional and drives well. But it feels very "tired".

Rear axles I've seen are a when and not if but mines looking reasonable. Clutch was £520 but that's petrol without DMF to deal with...

 

[Wayne~]

I have a 2009 FN2 just about to hit 120k and I have these same thoughts from time to time. It’s landed me a few ~500ish bills over the years but it’s now had all calipers replaced, new clutch and both front shocks replaced (which is a common item to fail on them I believe)

So when the costs are averaged out over the years it’s not that much. It helps that my mileage is pretty low too

What’s the window washing issue? My jet washers stopped working a few months ago and there was just a small filter on the back of the washer tank that needed a clean

They shoot fluid a tiny bit if you flick it but holding it does not a great deal. I'll check that out thanks!

 

[kmax86]

In my case, i find the urge to replace comes in like the seasons. I will eventually convice myself to keep the car as long as there are no disastrous major fault given enough time. I also avoid doing any test drives. I only look but not touch lol.

With the current used car prices i think i will need to spend at least 10k to have an upgrade. Anything lower will just be a sidegrade / even more high risk. Factoring the prices, keeping the car always a win for me even with a big maintenance bill.

As the others have already said the better devil you know.

 

[Tinders]

For me, if you plan to run an older car, you should learn to do the basics yourself, things like brakes (discs pads calipers) and service items etc. Labour cost adds so much to repair costs. I’m brave/stupid enough to do a clutch in a driveway

The wife runs around in a 07 Yaris, its worth nowt, did the clutch this weekend, £60 for the kit and 4 hours work means the car is good for a bit. With used car prices its better to stick with a car you know. The Civic, esp a petrol CTR is a great car, fun to drive and pretty practical for day to day. Unless you are going significantly newer then why change.

 

[Illusion]

They shoot fluid a tiny bit if you flick it but holding it does not a great deal. I'll check that out thanks!

It sounds like the same issue, cleaning the filter took 1 minute it was just getting to it that was a pain - I took the bumper off but once I found it it seems like something you could potentially access by removing the drivers side wheel arch lining

There is also a much easier fix which you may already have been doing - disconnect the washer fluid hose, spray the squirters briefly then reconnect - https://www.civinfo.com/posts/1694674/ I'd been doing this for a year or so until I finally had to clean the filter

 

[Mr_Sukebe]

A newer car should in theory be more reliable, but then you’re talking about a Honda, and an interesting one at that.
Road tax is likely to lower.

For all that, the balancing act are those costs vs the significantly higher amount of depreciation on a newer car.

Unless your CTR has rust issues, my guess is that it would be cheaper, aswell as more fun to keep

 

[Wayne~]

Small update, misfire on cylinder 1. Let's roll the dice again

 

[DXP55]

I am also in the same boat - I have a 2010 Focus and each year you think if this doesn't pass MOT what do I do.
I am hoping a few more years just because buying another car at my age is stupid (80) - who knows if I will be driving this xmas or one in 5 yrs time.
It did pass MOT yesterday with two advisories -Both front suspension pins or bushes are showing a bit of wear. Will give it a few months and have them done as I can't do work on cars anymore.
I did have a phase a few month's ago and looked at new/used cars but I am looking at over 20k and I might not be able to drive and wife isn't a confident driver anyway so it would create a few problems.
The main problem on mine is rust -Had one front wing renewed and the other is held tight by the cills with cable strap - Wasn't mentioned on MOT.
I am going to hold on and wait and see.

 

[Mason-]

I am also in the same boat - I have a 2010 Focus and each year you think if this doesn't pass MOT what do I do.
I am hoping a few more years just because buying another car at my age is stupid (80) - who knows if I will be driving this xmas or one in 5 yrs time.
It did pass MOT yesterday with two advisories -Both front suspension pins or bushes are showing a bit of wear. Will give it a few months and have them done as I can't do work on cars anymore.
I did have a phase a few month's ago and looked at new/used cars but I am looking at over 20k and I might not be able to drive and wife isn't a confident driver anyway so it would create a few problems.
The main problem on mine is rust -Had one front wing renewed and the other is held tight by the cills with cable strap - Wasn't mentioned on MOT.
I am going to hold on and wait and see.

My man, I remember googling about triple glazing, a thread came up from over 10 years ago and you were saying triple glazing isn't worth it because you might not be around next year

Live life, if anything it's an excuse to buy whatever you want. You can't take it with you

This it: https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/upvc-window-question.18556918/
ok it wasn't triple glazing but:

At my age spending mega buck's on the windows was a no no

 

[Pigeon]

Background to this I have a 2007 Civic Type R with 156k on the clock. Has a list of niggles I won't bore you with however recently I've had the clutch done, brakes, some suspension work totalling about £1200.

Thinking the next big bill will be decision time but with the amount spent recently when would you call it?

My personal experience was parting with my MG TF when the cam belt unexpectedly went (it was within time and miles and booked in to be done about a fortnight later so bad luck) My car had plenty of niggles with wear and tear with 204k on the clock. I had also gone through similar renewals of suspension, clutch etc to keep the car driving nicely as they were needed, over the time and use where I had the car I regarded them like normal servicing really.

I was generally unhappy with some niggles like the seat sagging and starting to come apart to wear and the roof being green, general rust creeping about and marks in the body work but these were just age and use related and not enough to change the car. However presented with an £1100 unexpected bill all the niggles above did come into my decision. The big thing was looking at what other crucial work was expected over the next couple of years. For me there was probably £1500 of bodywork just for the rust, subframe repairs and other welding required. My front brake calipars had run out of adjustment to put new pads on and they would have been another £2-300 to refurbish or replace. The roof was probably going to start leaking as well at some point. This was well above the value of the car without doing the nice things. I decided to let it go as I was already aware that the car was quite worn out and was saving up for a new one. I borrowed a younger, lower mileage MG TF as well and broke down within three days which did not help ( apart from the cambelt my car had left me at the side of the road with the clutch and something else in a fairly short time period after being reliable for ages)

In hindsight I would have kept it as it was still the best car I have had to drive and fit my needs at the time. I should have made the big call to spend £10k on repairs and restoration and hoped the car would stay reliable rather than spending much more on what was not my first desired replacement/dream car.

With your car if it is still the best car for you I would keep it. A Civic Type R as well will be a classic and hold its value (and hopefully increase)

 

[Jokester]

That engine will outlast the chassis

Was going to ask the OP, how’s your rear axel mount welds?

Seemingly common failure point on these Hondas of that age.

2005 diesel civic here, current issues:
Rear axel mount corrosion advisory on the MOT for a few years now, mechanic reckons it’ll be gone in a year or two
ABS controller faulty, still works but MOT fail due to warning light, new controller is £ouchies
Nothing left in handbrake cable, MOT fail, but not a massive job
Squealing noise when steering, rack or pump possibly, not investigated
LCD screen is faulty in centre console (common issue)
Air con is knackered, probably a leak
Suspension travel seems excessive so probably an MOT fail there as well
CD player has died (nooooooo)

Car is also banned from Aberdeen LEZ, big pollution problem here apparently, who knew? I hear the council have budget shortages…

MOT expires at end of August so scrapping it.

Engine though at 95k miles is just worn in!

 

[Wayne~]

Rear beam is surprisingly solid and no mention on MOTs. I have the same ABS issue but as you say it works and can be cleared for such occasions

 

[Jokester]

Rear beam is surprisingly solid and no mention on MOTs. I have the same ABS issue but as you say it works and can be cleared for such occasions

Mine comes on immediately

 

[Blackjack Davy]

I am in a similar situation like yourself Wayne. Have spent a lot on my 59 plate Mondeo which has recently clocked 125k. Clutch, DMF, Timing Belt Water pump, etc. It still has the subframe corrosion on the advisory and the rear springs. It's going to be a nightmare job to replace the springs because of the corroded nuts and bolts. Guess if the next big bill is anywhere around a grand I will have to pull the trigger.

It is never going to be a straightforward decision. You may fix something now, only for something else to break and cause more grief leaving you wondering if only I had not spent that money on repairs and rather used it in buying a better and newer car.

Once it becomes a money pit unless you're seriously attached to it for whatever reason its time to let it go. I always remember my stepfathers car was forever needing something fixing usually expensive "oh thats done it'll be fine now" yeah until the next thing needed doing usually expensive and only a matter of months later. Over and over. The damn thing was on HP so he had no choice but to patch it up as he didn't legally own it but soon as the final payment was made that millstone around the neck went.