KRK Rokit Horrible Noise!

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Hi,

I have this issue with one of my KRK Rokit RP5 G2 monitors when I power it on it makes a horrible loud buzzing/vibrating noise and the speaker cone pushes out and then in, then out, then in..
I will try and upload a vid.

I then changed the fuse and now it just stays out but it makes a constant loud buzzing noise.

Does anyone know what is causing this and how much it would cost to fix?

Thanks
 
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One or both of that IC is busted and needs to be replace.

Best to replace both as they are not that expensive, it is probably tda2030 or tda2050.

AOOTyAi.jpg


You also need to clean/removed that black goo as it can become conductive and mess up the circuits.

You can read about it here http://www.siber-sonic.com/audio/carnage.html
 
You also need to clean/removed that black goo as it can become conductive and mess up the circuits.
From its horrible look it can be well on its way to that.

And is that big capacitor (in center of PCB) with "X-cut" on its top bulging?
Top pictures are bad for seeing that but looks slightly that way...
 
Hi,

Thanks for the replies..

The capacitors were not bulging and what I tried doing was swapping them from my working unit and same problem persisted so I know the capacitors were fine. I also tried swapping the whole motherboard between the two units and it narrowed down to something on the actual motherboard causing it.

I will look into maybe replacing the IC's and hopefully that fixes it.

They are well out of warranty but I just wanted to see if I could fix it with a simple part rather than paying £50+ for someone to repair when the unit itself is only worth around £110.

I checked and it is a TDA 2052. Is there anyway I can check other components to see if anything else has went.

I just noticed when I turned them on there there is no power now and the fuse blew twice. So I think I may have something shorting when I put it back together :(
 
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I am going to go to Maplins tomorrow and pick some parts up.. I need some new fuses but apart from them, looking at this much better pic now I have the board removed, what parts look like I need to replace them and can you please tell me the names of them:



I will purchase two of the IC: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/tda2050v-cp88v (is this the correct thing?) It says TDA2052 on the part
 
Sourcing the TDA2052 has been a nightmare. Apart from overpaying on eBay or waiting a month from Ali Express theyre are none.

I will try putting the good IC from another unit into the broken one and see if it fixes the problem. If not then I know I need to start looking at other possibilities.

Around the broken looking part I removed the IC, Capacitor and Resistor.


I dont see what else could be affected.
 
Looks like someone reached into cheap capacitor bag: JunFu

If all capacitors are of same cheap low quality there might be smaller capacitors which have dried up.
That doesn't show externally in any way.
 
Yeah i heard KRK where made cheap.

So do you think I should just replace all capacitors on the board?

Is there a certain type from Maplin or eBay I should look for?
 
Specialized electronics component stores like Digikey etc have best selections.
In case of eBay or some small web shops in who knows where there's always major risk of Chinese counterfeit capacitors or some rejected batches which failed QC.

I would first check markings of used capacitors and then look for their data sheets for what type capacitors are used in which position.
Also leg spacing and capacitor diameter are important.

Basically I print paper with ready rows and proper length columns for things:
First column holds that Cxxx component number.
Next what I can read read for brand/manufacturer name and serie. (temperature can help in narrowing it down).
Followed by columns for capacitance and voltage
And last capacitor size and legspacing leaving some space for extra markings like if bigger diameter capacitor can fit and voltage of circuitry.

Then I move to computer and try to find specifications like rated endurance, ripple current and ESR/impedance.
Only after that I start doing list of what capacitors are available with at least as good specs.
Though "high performance" capacitor in place of some standard capacitor won't hurt things so I always choose one of the better ones.
In case of tiny caps often switching to step higher voltage one with step bigger diameter diameter if there's space and leg spacing fits.
Capacitor's height is usually less of issue in small ones.

That "documentation" also helps to avoid doing mistake when putting in new caps.


While there are those "audio" capacitors primary job of capacitor in most "job positions" is storing electric charge and smoothing voltage.
Higher ripple current capability and lower ESR/impedance are always good for that.
In switching power supply filtering ripple current endurance affects to how well capacitor can even survive.

Again being in audio signal path is demanding for capacitors and electrolytics aren't even best type for that.


Capacitor endurance doubles per every 10C drop in ambient so 1000h@105C rated cap has twice the life of 2000h@85C assuming other specs are same.
Anyway 1000h @105C is low and myself looked for higher in those few devices I've recapped to make sure I won't be having to open it again because of capacitors.
Once couldn't find any good serie 105C caps in certain capacitance/voltage for small general purpose cap job so took automotive rated 130C Rubycon RX30.
Plastic frame of that monitor might start rotting before that cap failing... :D
 
Thanks for the homework lol..

Before I overpay for the IC I will test my working on in unit.

I also ordered a multimeter to hopefully learn how to test components to see what ones are broke and not..

Ordered a pack of 4.7k 0.25w resistors which look like the correct colour band for what I removed last night..

Ordered more fuses as a backup lol..

Only part I haven't ordered yet is the capacitors.


These were the parts I removed close to the IC.
 
UPDATE:

I took the IC and Resistor from the working unit and soldered them into the faulty unit and IT WORKS!!!

So from that I can assume it is one of these two parts that is causing the issue.

I have the resistors ordered on eBay and I supose I will just need to overpay (£10) for the IC assuming its going to fix my monitors...

The only gripe I noticed is after playing for around 30secs its as if the tone starts to go a little tinny and sounds like its inside a box lol..

Now when I power it on I hear a slight humming noise.. So I am assuming that is the capacitors causing the issue, would I need to replace all of them?
 
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Resistors and semiconductors are very reliable components either being really long lasting or then fast failing so important question is what made them fail.

Testing capacitors properly needs also ESR tester besides capacitance meter.
And with their price you might just as well assume every cap as bad or failing...

That "TBOR" is as reputable sounding maker as Bor Hurng Electronic (Zhaoqing) Co., Ltd.
I think it's just easier to call it as "we make cheap stuff"...
 
Lol, I was tinkering about inside and I have got them working but its like the bottom (speaker/woofer) cuts out.

What is weird is it doesn't feel like a wire causing it its more if the PCB touches the wooden casing it crackles to come on.

Now the speaker refuses to work :'(
 
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Think I have finally given up.. I fix one part and another goes...

Least I got a bit of enjoyment bouncing them off the ground
 
If you want to experiment or just play around you can replace the 2052 with say the LM3886 board like this

LM3886

LM3886

It's really not that hard to do this, you just need to wire the input to the 3886 amp, the power supply and the output goes to the woofer and the tweeter.

There is a lot of cheap amp board to choose from TDA7293/7294 TPA3116 etc.
 
The LM3886 IC for instance has better specs compared to the tda2052 but I can't really say if it will degrade the sound of the krk.

Also it seems the KRK Rokit 8 uses the tda7294 IC for the woofer.
 
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