KRK Rokit Horrible Noise!
- Thread starter Rowan88
- Start date
Your question is a bit vague but I will guess the best as I can.
There is 2 amplifier IC in the board the TDA2052, one of this drives the tweeter and the other the woofer if the TDA2052 that is driving the the woofer goes faulty then the low frequency (including the bass ) will be gone and you will only hear the highs (treble) that is coming from the tweeter.
There is 2 amplifier IC in the board the TDA2052, one of this drives the tweeter and the other the woofer if the TDA2052 that is driving the the woofer goes faulty then the low frequency (including the bass ) will be gone and you will only hear the highs (treble) that is coming from the tweeter.
You can use a multi-meter in continuity setting to locate the IC.
Clip one end of the meter probe to the positve (+) side of the woofer solder point/connection and the other probe to pin 1 (output) of the IC, the meter will beep if on the correct IC.
You can also manually follow the wiring from the positive connection of the woofer speaker going to the board and through the pcb trace on the underside of the board to the IC.
Clip one end of the meter probe to the positve (+) side of the woofer solder point/connection and the other probe to pin 1 (output) of the IC, the meter will beep if on the correct IC.
You can also manually follow the wiring from the positive connection of the woofer speaker going to the board and through the pcb trace on the underside of the board to the IC.
Just got my multi-meter in the post today so will give a try checking some of the components out to know which is broke and which isn't.
I also lost a bit of patience with it the other day and managed to end up breaking off some of the solder pads near the IC so I don't even know if they will work anymore and would probably make more sense buying two new boards.
So if I wanted to get both working I would just need to buy two of these?????
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HiFi-LM3886TF-Mono-68W-4Ω-Audio-Power-Amplifier-Board-AMP-50W-38W-8Ω-Assembled/172274154367?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HiFi-LM38...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audio-LM3...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
If I buy two of these and wait the month for delivery then is it easy enough to swap them out? And how do I know which one of the above I need?
I also lost a bit of patience with it the other day and managed to end up breaking off some of the solder pads near the IC so I don't even know if they will work anymore and would probably make more sense buying two new boards.
So if I wanted to get both working I would just need to buy two of these?????
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HiFi-LM3886TF-Mono-68W-4Ω-Audio-Power-Amplifier-Board-AMP-50W-38W-8Ω-Assembled/172274154367?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HiFi-LM38...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audio-LM3...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
If I buy two of these and wait the month for delivery then is it easy enough to swap them out? And how do I know which one of the above I need?
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Are these any good for you?
https://imghost.io/image/Hty0K
https://imghost.io/image/HttzM
https://imghost.io/image/HtCMW
https://imghost.io/image/Htjkg
https://imghost.io/image/Htv9q
https://imghost.io/image/HtFSd
Specs
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.krksys.com/manuals/rokit/rokit_manual%20REV%20E%20-%20web.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj5quegy8LVAhXJLMAKHWDzANgQFghKMAM&usg=AFQjCNHyRZpqFvHR_wB1YqeFEdY1RlaJQA
As it stands right now I have one speaker which plays music but it sounds really low and tinny as if the woofer isn't working, and the other powers but no sound at all and makes a crackle.
I wish I knew how to test the IC's individually so I can see which ones are friend and which aren't so I can get at least one speaker working.
Ideally I would prefer to just buy two new boards and install them but I would need to get a compatible one for my speakers.
https://imghost.io/image/Hty0K
https://imghost.io/image/HttzM
https://imghost.io/image/HtCMW
https://imghost.io/image/Htjkg
https://imghost.io/image/Htv9q
https://imghost.io/image/HtFSd
Specs
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.krksys.com/manuals/rokit/rokit_manual%20REV%20E%20-%20web.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj5quegy8LVAhXJLMAKHWDzANgQFghKMAM&usg=AFQjCNHyRZpqFvHR_wB1YqeFEdY1RlaJQA
As it stands right now I have one speaker which plays music but it sounds really low and tinny as if the woofer isn't working, and the other powers but no sound at all and makes a crackle.
I wish I knew how to test the IC's individually so I can see which ones are friend and which aren't so I can get at least one speaker working.
Ideally I would prefer to just buy two new boards and install them but I would need to get a compatible one for my speakers.
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Looks like you might be limited to your board choices due to size limitation of the built in heatsink to the board.
The Dimension of this board is about 74MM X 50mm, so check that you had enought space to mount 2 boards on the heatsink if your planning to replace both 2052 IC.
LM3886
Are capacitors in this pic original? or they have been replaced.
Can you measure the voltage as indicated in the pic below.
The Dimension of this board is about 74MM X 50mm, so check that you had enought space to mount 2 boards on the heatsink if your planning to replace both 2052 IC.
LM3886
Are capacitors in this pic original? or they have been replaced.
Can you measure the voltage as indicated in the pic below.
1. All the components are original and nothing has been changed.
2. Put multimeter onto 600v and middle part of board gave reading of 039 and the far right of the board gave 045.
3. The heatsink is 115x70mm and the hole points for the IC come in at 35mm and then 85mm.
I wouldn't mind replacing individual parts on the board but only if I could check each one and know if they are working..
2. Put multimeter onto 600v and middle part of board gave reading of 039 and the far right of the board gave 045.
3. The heatsink is 115x70mm and the hole points for the IC come in at 35mm and then 85mm.
I wouldn't mind replacing individual parts on the board but only if I could check each one and know if they are working..
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I have tinkered with both that much I couldn't say what ones work and not. How can I test each to see??
If replacing the TDA2052s would fix the problem I would buy 4 from ebay but I need to make sure that is all I need..
As far as the wrecked solder pads I have used a small piece of wire to re trace and I think I have done it right but until I know which ones work I can't test it properly.
If replacing the TDA2052s would fix the problem I would buy 4 from ebay but I need to make sure that is all I need..
As far as the wrecked solder pads I have used a small piece of wire to re trace and I think I have done it right but until I know which ones work I can't test it properly.
Only other thing I have is a Peavey VK112 but I dont want to dabble with it..
All I could try is swapping ones between the units to try and find a working pair..
Or buy 4x new ones. But it means a 30day wait for the parts. Thats why I was hoping to test it first.
Right now one of the speakers works but the music playback is very low and tinny as if the tweeter works but woofer doesnt. The other powers but I get no audio from it what so ever.
All I could try is swapping ones between the units to try and find a working pair..
Or buy 4x new ones. But it means a 30day wait for the parts. Thats why I was hoping to test it first.
Right now one of the speakers works but the music playback is very low and tinny as if the tweeter works but woofer doesnt. The other powers but I get no audio from it what so ever.
There is no doubt that the sound coming from your rokit is sign of a shorted power transistor inside the IC.
It's your choice, you can buy some of the cheap 2052 from ebay and hope that you get a good IC or from a UK seller which is expensive or replace it with the 3886.
When replacing parts and when your in doubt, it is good to test the circuits before the main amp (tda2052) that it is in good working order, one way to check this is to feed its output to a good know working amp (this is where the headphone amp comes in), you can also check it using an oscilloscope if you have access to it.
It's your choice, you can buy some of the cheap 2052 from ebay and hope that you get a good IC or from a UK seller which is expensive or replace it with the 3886.
When replacing parts and when your in doubt, it is good to test the circuits before the main amp (tda2052) that it is in good working order, one way to check this is to feed its output to a good know working amp (this is where the headphone amp comes in), you can also check it using an oscilloscope if you have access to it.
1. How do I know that when I buy the 2052s that after fitting they won't fry again. Is there anything I should check that could be causing the short?
2. When you say replace the 3886 would that be replacing the whole boars with the one you linked? If so would I just need one board per speaker or two?
3. Does it have to be a TDA2052 I am searching for? I cant replace it with anything else which is easier to find?
I ordered 5x TDA2052V from eBay for £7 (China).. guess I will just need to wait the month delivery.
2. When you say replace the 3886 would that be replacing the whole boars with the one you linked? If so would I just need one board per speaker or two?
3. Does it have to be a TDA2052 I am searching for? I cant replace it with anything else which is easier to find?
I ordered 5x TDA2052V from eBay for £7 (China).. guess I will just need to wait the month delivery.
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Soldato
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Is that corrosion on that diode bottom left? water damage?