KRK Rokit Horrible Noise!
- Thread starter Rowan88
- Start date
One possible caused for the IC to fail is that black goo, dry solder joint etc. you can read some common cause here .
Also there is no way to tell that the new IC will not fry again especially with fake parts coming from china, there is just no way to tell if you get a good IC from ebay.
The 2052 IC can be replaced with the 3886 board, just the 2052 IC not the whole board, you can't replace the whole board with just the 3886 board cause the whole board also has the rectifier circuits and probably a buffer/preamp.
You can replace it with the 3886 IC which is easier to find and other amp board tda2050 etc. ,you just wire it as shown below.
Also there is no way to tell that the new IC will not fry again especially with fake parts coming from china, there is just no way to tell if you get a good IC from ebay.
The 2052 IC can be replaced with the 3886 board, just the 2052 IC not the whole board, you can't replace the whole board with just the 3886 board cause the whole board also has the rectifier circuits and probably a buffer/preamp.
You can replace it with the 3886 IC which is easier to find and other amp board tda2050 etc. ,you just wire it as shown below.
At this point I am going to out 4 new IC into it. Any of them that the solder pads are broken on I will follow the trace and run a thin piece of wire from the leg to that point.. and if it still doesnt work then just call it a day and take it as a learning experience.
Associate
- Joined
- 5 Apr 2014
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- 1,476
Think i would have called it a day long time ago lolol
Because I am very stubborn
.. and using this as experience lol.Can you confirm that if the solder pads have been burnt off due to me being a twit, are these new connection points correct?
Because I am very stubborn
Can you confirm that if the solder pads have been burnt off due to me being a twit, are these new connection points correct?
Did you ever get this sorted?
Dave Jones of EEVBlog has just encountered the same problem with the black compound they apply for strain-relief / physical strength turning corrosive and making a mess of any component or metal that came into contact with it.
Nackered the tweeter too as the corrosion resulted in a full-amplitude square wave being sent to it when powered on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dftkoD7LG0A
Nackered the tweeter too as the corrosion resulted in a full-amplitude square wave being sent to it when powered on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dftkoD7LG0A
As an aside from just reading this thread - for aluminium electrolytic capacitors I generally use for audio:
Power filtering - Panasonic FM, Panasonic FC, Cornell Dubilier MLQ, Nichicon KW (anything with good ripple stats within reason)
Local power/bypassing - Panasonic FC, Nichicon KZ (Muses), Nichicon FG, Elna Silmic II, Nichicon UPW (Ideally low ESR - but not too low as sometimes that can destabilise regulators that might be feeding into them, etc.).
My favourites being Cornell Dubilier MLQ and Nichicon KZ as they seem to have the least influence of any type on the sound.
Power filtering - Panasonic FM, Panasonic FC, Cornell Dubilier MLQ, Nichicon KW (anything with good ripple stats within reason)
Local power/bypassing - Panasonic FC, Nichicon KZ (Muses), Nichicon FG, Elna Silmic II, Nichicon UPW (Ideally low ESR - but not too low as sometimes that can destabilise regulators that might be feeding into them, etc.).
My favourites being Cornell Dubilier MLQ and Nichicon KZ as they seem to have the least influence of any type on the sound.
Soldato
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- 17 Aug 2003
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- Woburn Sand Dunes
Conductive gunk. wow.