A watercooled gpu gets so much more performance gain than you would from a watercooled cpu, the temps difference is quite significant. GPU temps can drop as much as 25-35c depending on how many radiators and what else is in your loop. For me i saw a drop from 65c to 42c average which allowed me a further boost clock of 20mhz. I believe if i somehow managed to drop temps further i could squeeze another 10-15mhz out of it easily without going into sub ambient temps.Stumbled across this thread and its a great build. I've finally recently got a 144hz monitor and with the unlocked frames Im finding that the GPU temps are pretty high, so I'm thinking now of starting off watercooling with a GPU only build and extending to CPU where necessary.
Have the same case as you, so going to have a read through to get more details to see how to mitigate problems. Which vertical mount is that? I have the coolermaster one, which was great before as the slots were closer to the motherboard, which gave my air cooled GPU more room to breathe. However since I upgraded a couple of months back, it might be TOO close as it will foul on my RAM (same as yours by the looks of it).
Its a lovely looking build and I'm starting to look at pumps etc. Annoyingly the standard 011D is just a few mm short to give me real options without vertical mounting, so will have to see whats possible.
Any plans going ahead?
For a gpu only loop a single 360 rad would be more than sufficient to see significant drops in temps. A further 360 rad would help a lot if you had a cpu in the loop as well in the future. Use to be 240 rad per component but since components these days run a lot hotter than what they use to with some above the 300w mark, it just doesn't flow anymore.
I got the Phanteks Vertical mount for its ability to adjust up and down along the pci slots as it technically only uses up 5 slots not the advertised 7 slots.
If i had the coolermaster mount i would:
A) not be able to mount a bottom radiator or fans
B) foul the ram as you mentioned.
The phanteks version allows me to eliminate both of these problems.
If you spend some time measuring and having a closer look at the case its actually very versatile and can fit a lot in there.
I'm tinkering with the idea of swapping the 240 rad up top for a 360 rad but just working out the flow and fittings direction is proving to be abit of a ball ache at the moment. Furthermore i had to flush the system last night due to EK's Cryo fuel Solid Fire Orange losing its white particles and getting stuck to the blocks and tubing/res.. very disappointed in it. Looked amazing at first but shortly after i noticed white build up and knew what was up. Swapped it all out for de-ionised water again now for the time being. Will do a little tutorial on cleaning up scratched PETG as well tomorrow as i've ordered a kit to help me do this. The clear fluid shows up all the scratch marks unfortunately and its rather annoying me..