Loft boarding project started
- Thread starter danlightbulb
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Because I don't want to put the load on the existing small ceiling joists. Plus that loftzone product would be much more expensive.
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I think both ideas are valid, have it on the wall up high so it's not accidentally left on.
I had the same dilemma but it would have been a faff to move the switch to the hall so just put it somewhere better in the loft and made it illuminated so it's impossible not to see it.
Soldato
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Personally I'd not like to be able to switch the light on and not see that it's on e.g. if someone hits the wrong switch. I'd usually leave it as close to the entry hatch as possible so it's the first thing you see and the last you touch when leaving.
If your proposed spot is out of normal reach I think it's reasonable. I'd not put it at "normal light switch" height.
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Having a bit of a mare with joists setting out and joist hangers.
I couldn't find ones suitable for 2x5 so I bought long leg ones that are height adjustable, but it's awkward getting them in position in awkward corners of the loft.
Then I realised after installing a couple that as they wrap over the top of the joist they will slightly sit proud of the surface affecting the level of my OSB floor boards.
I've ordered some face fit ones now which I need to use instead but these were much more expensive.
It's also difficult to get my joist spacing correct and square. I was working to 400mm centres but the boards are 1220 long which isn't 400mm centres more like 407mm so I've had to redo the joist spacing as well.
Hopefully once I've got the joist work going it will get easier but starting off with the layout it's been quite slow.
I couldn't find ones suitable for 2x5 so I bought long leg ones that are height adjustable, but it's awkward getting them in position in awkward corners of the loft.
Then I realised after installing a couple that as they wrap over the top of the joist they will slightly sit proud of the surface affecting the level of my OSB floor boards.
I've ordered some face fit ones now which I need to use instead but these were much more expensive.
It's also difficult to get my joist spacing correct and square. I was working to 400mm centres but the boards are 1220 long which isn't 400mm centres more like 407mm so I've had to redo the joist spacing as well.
Hopefully once I've got the joist work going it will get easier but starting off with the layout it's been quite slow.
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Section 1 timber joists nearly complete, just a ledger board to fix to wall at the back:
And insulated:
Next section cleared ready for more joists. Plan is a ledger board on the wall at the back, then another 7x2 running on top of the supporting brick wall on the right, with more 2x5 joists then bridging between my two 7x2s.
And insulated:
Next section cleared ready for more joists. Plan is a ledger board on the wall at the back, then another 7x2 running on top of the supporting brick wall on the right, with more 2x5 joists then bridging between my two 7x2s.
Regarding light switches, look into wireless kinetic switches. Allows you to have the light switch anywhere you like without the faff of relocating any cables.
Theere are plenty of different options, but these are the ones ive used:
Theere are plenty of different options, but these are the ones ive used:
Didn’t know these existed, ideal for a project I need to start thank you
These look great, didn’t even know they existed to be honest!
Section 1 timber joists nearly complete, just a ledger board to fix to wall at the back:
Looking good, you'll be finished in no time
.Yes, the Quinetic stuff is awesome if a bit spendy. I have a kitchen under cabinet lighting project in mind for it
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Does anyone have any knowledge about removing these ceiling hangers?
I think they are just anti sag hangers for the ceiling below, but with my new joists I've also used joist hangers onto the ceiling cross members below so I may have made these redundant. The pieces of timber circled are only approx 120mm x 10mm thick, nailed to one ceiling joist at the bottom end and part of the roof structure at the top. They are visibly wobbly not under any tension as far as I can tell.
Anyone have an opinion?
I think they are just anti sag hangers for the ceiling below, but with my new joists I've also used joist hangers onto the ceiling cross members below so I may have made these redundant. The pieces of timber circled are only approx 120mm x 10mm thick, nailed to one ceiling joist at the bottom end and part of the roof structure at the top. They are visibly wobbly not under any tension as far as I can tell.
Anyone have an opinion?
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Soldato
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I wouldn't touch them
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Yeah probably won't. I imagine there's a 99% chance they aren't doing much or my modifications have made them redundant but I can't be 100% sure. Would have made boarding easier if they weren't there.
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Soldato
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Agreed. My loft is a mess of all these stupid beams but I already asked the collective mind here and got a very strong reaction against touching them.
If there's no tension then perhaps remove them temporarily while you put the boards down? Reinstate them with some angle brackets once the boards are down? Obligatory I'm not an architect or a builder so get an expert's opinion!
Soldato
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They shouldn't be there.
My suspicion is someone was overloading the loft and caused a sag and a crack.
Unloading the loft allowed it to move back and to stabilise the situation they added them.
If they are untensioned then I would remove them. See what happens below.
I wouldn't want my ceiling supported by two random bits of floorboard! but I suspect they no longer are.
If your worried for long term, replace with some proper offcuts of 6x2 or something you have. I would use something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-angle-brackets-galvanised-60mm-x-50mm-10-pack/61576 to bring a secure bracket up throught the boards and then screw your piece of timber to the joists/rafters with that once you have laid all the insulation and boards. You would probably need longer such as https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-angle-brackets-galvanised-63mm-x-90mm-10-pack/86180 hard to tell from your pictures.
My suspicion is someone was overloading the loft and caused a sag and a crack.
Unloading the loft allowed it to move back and to stabilise the situation they added them.
If they are untensioned then I would remove them. See what happens below.
I wouldn't want my ceiling supported by two random bits of floorboard! but I suspect they no longer are.
If your worried for long term, replace with some proper offcuts of 6x2 or something you have. I would use something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-angle-brackets-galvanised-60mm-x-50mm-10-pack/61576 to bring a secure bracket up throught the boards and then screw your piece of timber to the joists/rafters with that once you have laid all the insulation and boards. You would probably need longer such as https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-angle-brackets-galvanised-63mm-x-90mm-10-pack/86180 hard to tell from your pictures.
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@Mercenary Keyboard Warrior they look original to me, same colour as rest of timber in the loft, same nails as rest of nails I can see, nailed through the ceiling joists which show no evidence of movement. I think they are original.
i dont think they are supporting the ceiling normally. For a start its only one per bedroom, attached to a single mid span ceiling joist. Secondly the ceiling joists already run between supporting internal walls and the outer wall of the house.
My unknown is whether they in any way prevent uplift of the roof structure, rather than prevent sag of the ceiling structure.
i dont think they are supporting the ceiling normally. For a start its only one per bedroom, attached to a single mid span ceiling joist. Secondly the ceiling joists already run between supporting internal walls and the outer wall of the house.
My unknown is whether they in any way prevent uplift of the roof structure, rather than prevent sag of the ceiling structure.
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Second section framing complete.
