low pressure fuel pump error code

BUDFORCE said:
Cheers yea got home about 20 past 10, broke down at about 7, so not terrible managed to get it recovered back to my preferred garage then dropped home.
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so did you contact you garage to get their agreement or on the street outside
(when I recently had a brake boost sensor go, out of hours, I had had approval from car park owner to leave the car, and was unsure about logistics
to allow it to be recovered directly to my local mechanic - their book could have been really full)
 
jpaul said:
so did you contact you garage to get their agreement or on the street outside
(when I recently had a brake boost sensor go, out of hours, I had had approval from car park owner to leave the car, and was unsure about logistics
to allow it to be recovered directly to my local mechanic - their book could have been really full)
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Nah I just left it there they'll be fine though. Small village logistics, they've gotta earn their Christmas box of Stella somehow.
 
Was about to write , "had this same symptom on a Discovery 3 TDV6 , it was the in tank fuel pump dying and it eventually left me walking" but sounds like you found out the hard way.

You get both high and low codes as the HPFP starves for fuel, turns up its regulator then gets a sudden shot of fuel and has to turn back down.

I did the pump myself then got the same error back 2 days later, which was the fuel filter also being blocked with bits of pump !
 
Right update on this spoke to the garage today.

He fired the car up, it did what it was doing, 500rpm baldy chugging for a few seconds before dying.

Moved it inside on to the ramp and then when he started it up later, it fired up, run perfectly fine. He actually showed me in person, fired the car up and it run fine.

Apparently on the top of the fuel tank not only is the low pressure fuel pump in there, there is also a fuel control module, and he thinks it might be that rather than the fuel pump, and it's failing as it's getting hot, which makes sense.

But if going in to that anyway might as well eliminate the fuel pump and change it anyway.

Good news is fuel pump reasonably cheap, even for a genuine one.

Bad news:

Fuel control module, not cheap.......at all.

Plus it's a drop the fuel tank job.......

He's gonna ring me later when he's looked a bit more.

I can see this easily being north of a grand though.
 
Do you have a good online parts reference to know the part numbers ? - half the battle , used to have one for my bmw but for audi there is BA, no right to repair.

Had to have the tank dropped when my rear brake lines were done on my old 3er - as long as they syphon off your fuel.
 
jpaul said:
Do you have a good online parts reference to know the part numbers ? - half the battle , used to have one for my bmw but for audi there is BA, no right to repair.

Had to have the tank dropped when my rear brake lines were done on my old 3er - as long as they syphon off your fuel.
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Hi.

I meant to update this a little earlier.

I got it mixed up, the module is easy and cheap, already ordered.

It's the fuel pump that isn't.

The part number fuel pump/sender 31372884.

Apparently Volvo direct is on backorder until September.

I found one on eBay from Lithuania, then a German website (skandix) that has a couple.

eBay £640, Volvo apparently is about £700, that German website £250 EUR.



There are also a few not great looking websites selling pattern parts, but given the labour to dig it out I'm not overly keen and neither are the garage.
 
BUDFORCE said:
Hi.

I meant to update this a little earlier.

I got it mixed up, the module is easy and cheap, already ordered.

It's the fuel pump that isn't.

The part number fuel pump/sender 31372884.

Apparently Volvo direct is on backorder until September.

I found one on eBay from Lithuania, then a German website (skandix) that has a couple.

eBay £640, Volvo apparently is about £700, that German website £250 EUR.



There are also a few not great looking websites selling pattern parts, but given the labour to dig it out I'm not overly keen and neither are the garage.
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This is for a full pump assembly. See if you can find just the fuel pump instead. Bit of disassembly required but significantly cheaper. It'll be a Bosch or Walbro pump inside the assembly most likely.
 
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jpaul said:
how many hours does he thinks involved dropping the tank , can you have a part on standby/returnable in case existing one can be salvaged,
like filter cleaned.

looks like the skandix one could be had for less https://www.ak24parts.com/en/spareparts/professional-parts-23432884
but would have to be confident on delivery times.
ring the 'manufacturer' to find best supplier ? https://www.proparts.se/shop?funk=v...884&visa=1-400&Sort=Populara&Visn=Sokresultat
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Cheers I'll have a look in a bit.
 
jpaul said:
how many hours does he thinks involved dropping the tank , can you have a part on standby/returnable in case existing one can be salvaged,
like filter cleaned.

looks like the skandix one could be had for less https://www.ak24parts.com/en/spareparts/professional-parts-23432884
but would have to be confident on delivery times.
ring the 'manufacturer' to find best supplierdistributor ? https://www.proparts.se/shop?funk=v...884&visa=1-400&Sort=Populara&Visn=Sokresultat
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Yea cheers, I agree that looks like the same part it's made by proparts , so not genuine Volvo but probably ok, better than a Chinese one.

I went to a breaker today who said they have one (used obviously) at 25% of retail new, so about £180.

I've emailed the Skandix website just now as well, to ask them if it's genuine or not, I suspect not at that price but I have asked the manufacturer, if it's Bosch (I'm hoping it could be....?) with all the taxes and delivery from Germanland, that be just north of £300 which I might go for as I think Bosch make the parts for Volvo anyway.

Im gonna nip in the garage tomorrow as I need to get my kids car seat out and my sunglasses for driving.

Good news is, my in laws have 2 cars and electric one, which they effectively use for everything, and an old Volvo diesel estate automatic, and they've basically said I can borrow it for a while as they basically don't use it anymore, they said the last time they put diesel in it was February, and it cost £7.50 to add me on the insurance.
 
Ok the German place came back and just said "aftermarket quality" which could mean anything, so that's off the cards...

So its either:

Genuine Volvo used one from a breaker, approx £180, could get the part tomorrow. No idea what condition, how long its been sitting there etc
Aftermarket one Propart made, £101, says arrives 2-3 days.
Or new genuine Volvo one from Volvo, £700+ and estimated September.......

I'm gonna nip in the garage soon and see what they think..... I genuinely don't know, part of me is thinking suck it up and go genuine new, and at least you know then its sorted.....the other two could pay off but more of a risk. I wouldn't be so bothered if it was something I could change myself, but I can't and it isn't a small job, plus if it breaks that the car not working, stuck on the side of some busy motorway in the middle of winter or whatever.
 
BUDFORCE said:
Genuine Volvo used one from a breaker, approx £180, could get the part tomorrow. No idea what condition, how long its been sitting there etc
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would garage need any new o-rings , for any purchase option

fascinating comment on this video ... even if can be accessed by seat looks like 3 man hours
A high fuel pressure is usually indicator of corroded PEMDon't keep driving with low gas fuel. The pump sits inside a cup always filled with gasoline, however in warm summer days the gasoline inside this cup will heat up from the pump and if the tank is near empty, the cup cannot disperse the heat and will keep the pump hot which is wearing the pump prematurely. That's how my pump went badA worn pump may cause sudden stalling while driving. On 2001-2004 cars, there is a pump relay on the CEM and this relay may suddenly disengage if the pump gets really hot, which will cut the engine - the car may restart and drive without problems right away. You can actually touch this relay under the dash and feel when it gets really hot which is causing it to disengage.The metal gas tank has internal fuel filter to the pump, plus a mesh around the pump cup. It is highly improbable for this filter to clog up, even with high mileage. The plastic tank
 
jpaul said:
would garage need any new o-rings , for any purchase option

fascinating comment on this video ... even if can be accessed by seat looks like 3 man hours
A high fuel pressure is usually indicator of corroded PEMDon't keep driving with low gas fuel. The pump sits inside a cup always filled with gasoline, however in warm summer days the gasoline inside this cup will heat up from the pump and if the tank is near empty, the cup cannot disperse the heat and will keep the pump hot which is wearing the pump prematurely. That's how my pump went badA worn pump may cause sudden stalling while driving. On 2001-2004 cars, there is a pump relay on the CEM and this relay may suddenly disengage if the pump gets really hot, which will cut the engine - the car may restart and drive without problems right away. You can actually touch this relay under the dash and feel when it gets really hot which is causing it to disengage.The metal gas tank has internal fuel filter to the pump, plus a mesh around the pump cup. It is highly improbable for this filter to clog up, even with high mileage. The plastic tank
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Given all the hot weather we've been having it wouldn't surprise me at all.

I think I'm just gonna suck it up and get the genuine Volvo one.
 
Right slight change of plan, given the cost and timescales of getting a new fuel pump they are just going to change the control module, apparently they are cheap and easy to get hold of as they are used across multiple cars, and also reckons he can just about get to it without dropping the tank. So a much smaller and cheaper job overall.

And then keep fingers crossed.

He was leaning towards that being the issue anyway, and I'm inclined to agree given the car was running absolutely fine until it died, and at the moment is running fine.

If it dies it dies I've got breakdown and then it'll be new fuel pump time. Given the cost and availability of the pump I think it's the best course of action.
 
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