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Major issue with computer build i9 7900x. Help appreciated: SOLVED

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Joined
13 Jun 2015
Posts
182
Hello,

I am experiencing a major problem with my build, let me elaborate:

Today i decided to update the bios on my x299 aorus gaming 9 motherboard,
and after finishing installation when it was due to reboot it never turned on again.
There are no signs of power at all. I’ve tried to turn the computer
on via the power button on the motherboard without luck.


I had previusly updated the bios at least three times without issues. I was previously
on the F6 bios realeased in August and this happened while trying to install
F7A. The processor was at stock frequencies prior to the bios update.

What can i do? Everything had been running without issues until now. The
system was built in early July

The rest of the specs are:

Core i9 7900x (ouck)
Aorus Gaming 9 x299 (ouck)
Corsair vengeance lpx 16 GB 3200 MHz (ouck)
Cooler Master Liquid Pro 289 AIO CPU Cooler (ouck)
750 W Seasonic Prime 80 Plus Titanium (not purchased at ouck)
Gtx 1080 Ti.

Thanks in advance
 
Bios flashing has always been one of those things that no matter how many times it has gone perfectly, every now and then it can go wrong.

1. always use the bios flash tool, normally via USB drive.
2. always return a motherboard to defaults before flashing, flashing a bios on an overclocked board can cause issues and bad flash.

To recover a board you can sometimes do a hard flash, not sure about your board but google is your friend. the most common method is to
switch PSU off on the back of PSU. or remove from wall socket. hold power button down after to remove any energy left in board. remove CMOS battery from motherboard.
if you have a jumper to reset bios put jumper in place and back to standard position before you replace CMOS battery, (sometimes battery has to be removed for hours or even over night).
replace battery to motherboard and hold reset button at same time. then power on PSU and hopefully your board will boot to bios.

some boards have a duel bios so you can boot to the 2nd bios and re flash the 1st bios. this means re downloading bios to a formatted USB drive.
don't try the same bios USB you got a bad flash from incase its corrupted in some way. re download and on a fresh format USB drive.

it can just be a time wait procedure, ive know boards come back after 12hrs of being off.

last resort in your case of no power lights check PSU as it might have failed on reboot. I would have said with your config the PSU was close to its limit at 750w

Thanks for the advice.

The motherboard has a CMOS clear button. I've unplugged all peripherals and
power supply from the computer and pressed the CMOS clear button with no luck.
 
Many thanks to all.

It seems it is the power supply. The motherboard does not turn on at all.
I've tried clearing the CMOS.

Is there an easy way to know if the power supply is working?

What would be the required power? 850 W?
 
Thanks.

I went with 750W because I do not overclock. I bought that psu because it is supposed to be one of the
best.

I am kind of surprised to read it is not enough power for this configuration. I called another retailer's customer sales before I
bought the power supply and they told me it would be fine so I went with it.
 
Hey guys,

I have been doing the paper clip test and the psu fan does not turn at all.
Tomorrow i will confirm this with a psu tester

Is it possible that other components were damaged as well? (Motherboard, cpu)?

I forgot to mention this:

When the bios update finished and the computer was about to restart
the whole electric power was cut from the wall socket. I had to go
downstairs to the electric switch box to switch it back on.
 
Last edited:
Untill you get a PSU in the machine that works its hard to say if anything is damaged, but corsair isn't a bad make so should have protected everything else. Never skimp on the PSU I would have said 1000W minimum and a decent brand. iam not saying corsair isn't, just saying 750w is not enough.
just cause the rev counter says 9000rpm then red line, don't mean you drive on 9000rpm. give yourself some head room even if not overclocking. cause to have a chip like that a standard clocks is like going to the pub to drink water.

And if circuit breaker tripped when the PC restarted its for sure a power issue and PSU dead.

Thanks, it is not corsair

It is seasonic titanium. I could not find a more expensive power supply at 750 than that
 
Were you using the mains lead that came with the PSU, have you changed the fuse, or tried another IEC C13 cable?

Also are you using a multi way extension, if so takr that out of the loop, and see how it gets on.

Yes i was using the one that came with the psu. I have not changed the fuse nor tried another cable.
Yes i was using a multi way extension. When i did the paper clip test i plugged the psu directly to a different socket
 
Its enough. Don't worry about it not being enough OP... :rolleyes:

My rig is more power hungry than an i9 with a single 1080ti would be, and it has a 750W PSU, and is usually pegged at 100% load.

Yes.
There are several online psu calculators from manufacturers that tell you what psu
you need based on the components.

Before buying mys psu i did the one on their website and they recommended 650 W titanium, so i went with 750 W titanium.

Do you guys think warranty covers power surges for ghe psu?
 
From what I understand from OP's posts is he flashed bios, the bios was written, the PC rebooted and the PSU failed which caused the Mains fuse to trip out. so the PC was booting after a bios flash.
in that case, the flash could have been successful but because the PSU failed on reboot we have no idea if the M/B is dead or not and as the OP needs a new PSU anyway, its would be worth trying new PSU in
the PC to see if M/B is toast or not before the RMA process. if found the board is ok he could be liable for testing and all the postage.

Seasonic is a good brand but I still say 750w titanium is not enough for his PC build.

Yes you are correct. That's how things happened.
I remember seeing the “rebooting in 5, 4, 3, 2, 1,” notice and then it never turned back on. At the same time the mains fuse tripped.

Based on seasonic's online psu calculator they recommended 650 W titanium. I went with 750 W titanium
 
I bought everything in July. Pc was up
and running fine since then.
Both cpu and gpu always at stock settings.
 
Everything points to a failed BIOS flash... But just to be certain, do you have another PSU you can test the system with, or another PC you can test your PSU in?

Is the BIOS chip a removable/replaceable item?

No, i don't have another pc nor another psu.

I think i'll have to take the pc to a repair shop on Monday for a
torough diagnosis. I did the paper clip test and the psu fan
is not spinning. I have a cheap psu tester incoming tomorrow.

I don't know about the removable bis chip. I have to search
 
I would strongly recommend trying another cable, I assume that you have one? If not then you can't really test the PSU, even with a tester since you cannot rule out the first link in the chain.

The if the PSU is not turning on, and the system fans are not spinning would indicate there is no power coming out of the PSU. If you have a DVM you could check the output coming from the cable, see if you are getting 230v AC, then change the fuse if not. After which, you would then test the PSU again while not connected to your PC equipment. If you can just connect a single fan to a molex connector, or use again the DVM if you have one to check the output of the 12v 8-pin, and the 3v3, 5v and 12v on the 24-pin

You can never supply enough information when you are describing a problem, as everything you have done and the outcome of which will lead to a different diagnosis and suggestion.

You are right.

I don't have all the equipment nor the expertise. Tomorrow i'll just receive the psu tester and
on monday i will take it to a computer reair shop for a diagnosis.
 
The PSUs runs in passive mode until you hit about 30% load. So you'll have to put some load on to get the fan to move. The PSU is probably fine.

This one has two modes. Normal and hybrid.
Normal mode is supposed to have the fan spinning always.
I've tried both modes.
 
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