Meguiars Ultimate Compound

Clay bars are also abrasive. Shouldn't be used for regular cleaning.

Should really polish afterwards.
 
I’ve used Meguiars Ultimate Compound on my car on two separate occasions in the last six months and I think I’ve got away with it so far without damaging the paint.

Won’t be using it again unless it’s absolutely necessary and I hope Autoglym intensive tar remover can do a similar job without being abrasive but I have my doubts.
 
I’ve used Meguiars Ultimate Compound on my car on two separate occasions in the last six months and I think I’ve got away with it so far without damaging the paint.

Won’t be using it again unless it’s absolutely necessary and I hope Autoglym intensive tar remover can do a similar job without being abrasive but I have my doubts.

The AG tar removal is great, works absolutely fine for removing tar spots. You have to do as Conscript says, soak a paper towel/rag etc. and hold it on the tar spots, then they just wipe off. Don't need to use any force. I use it quite often as they keep resurfacing/repairing the roads round here.
 
This photo was taken back in January before I used Meguiars Ultimate Compound for the first time...

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The second time I used it last week, it wasn’t really tar spots but sort of caked on dirt that I couldn’t remove with shampoo and a wash mitt alone. Should have taken a photo of it.

So I have my doubts that Autoglym intensive tar remover will be as effective on these types of marks if they’re not strictly tar spots.
 
you let the shampoo soak in - with multiple passes ?
I mostly use the two bucket wash, soaping bonnet/roof/sides about 3 times, over 15mins, but have left a soaked cloth on birds muck for an hour, but, that is not as easy on a vertical surface.




(
SRP - Since web seems to concur that SRP has some mild abrasives, I don't really see what distinguishes it from other polish products,
if you don't like the filler characteristic, you could clean up the residue, like you might do with other polishes ?
)
 
you let the shampoo soak in - with multiple passes ?
I mostly use the two bucket wash, soaping bonnet/roof/sides about 3 times, over 15mins, but have left a soaked cloth on birds muck for an hour, but, that is not as easy on a vertical surface.

I use the two bucket method as well with grit guards in both buckets, I tried my best to remove these stubborn marks using Armor All wash and wax and a microfibre wash mitt but they weren’t coming off.

It wasn’t until I rubbed Meguiars Ultimate Compound in that I got some results, but am now put off it due to it’s abrasiveness.
 
It's supposed to be abrasive, that's the whole point of a compound... I think you need to learn a bit about polishing and so on (if you're interested)!

I can't find Jon at Forensic's video explaining it all, but this covers the basics:

 
I think the point is that Meguiars Ultimate Compound is less abrasive than other harsher more traditional compounds on the market. It’s a special formula. Maybe you should do some research into it
 
Special formula or not, it's still abrasive, there is plenty of evidence of this online. Also, if the paint is contaminated (as yours was, with tar spots or whatever they were), you're just going to be rubbing that all over the paintwork making a mess, too.
 
Special formula or not, it's still abrasive, there is plenty of evidence of this online. Also, if the paint is contaminated (as yours was, with tar spots or whatever they were), you're just going to be rubbing that all over the paintwork making a mess, too.

There’s plenty of evidence that it’s safe on the clear coat too. It’s not like all the others that’s why it’s highly recommended by many online reviews.
 
It will rub away the surface, it's what compound polish does. If you use it too many times it will rub all the clear coat away.

You can get the waxy stuff like the coloured turtle wax ones which will fill in scratches instead. But it only lasts a few washes.
 
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It will rub away the surface, it's what compound polish does. If you use it too many times it will rub all the clear coat away.

Did some googling found this...

https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/s...mate-Compound-and-other-paint-repair-products

From Nick Winn who works for Meguiar's...

"Great questions. You are correct, various Meguiar's products use very specialized automotive specific abrasives which work to permanently remove defects, which will remove a microscopic amount of paint. "Microscopic" is the key here.

To give you an example, most often times even when applying some of our most aggressive compounds with a dual action polisher machine, the amount of clear coat removed is still extremely microscopic & not of great concern. Again, this is with some of our most aggressive processes on dual action polisher machine.

So hopefully that puts things in perspective. With that said, it's still a good idea to try to use aggressive compounds on an as needed basis. Ideally, a user would "correct" the vehicle of moderate swirls/scratches with for example a compound, and maybe after 6 months or a year, very light defects are picked up from driving, washing, wiping down, etc., which a mild cleaner/polish product would take care of, like SwirlX or Ultimate Polish. Always use the least aggressive process needed, but also don't be afraid to use compounds."
 
Issue I had with (meguiars m83) compounds , was perhaps inadequate water lubrication and wrong pad, too,
whereas for SRP, you might use more product, but don't have to worry about water

(take care - regret the purchase of a porter cable dap which I used with meguiar m83 - ended up removing too much cleacoat - necessitating bonnet respray ,
should have stuck with auto glym srp)
 
Clay bars are also abrasive. Shouldn't be used for regular cleaning.

Should really polish afterwards.

Clay is risky, i used to clean and pressure wash my car very thoroughly and even then using a claybar with care got the odd scratch.
It is a very poweful cleaner but only for a needed machine polish is it worth it i think.
 
Issue I had with (meguiars m83) compounds , was perhaps inadequate water lubrication and wrong pad,

Meguiars M83 isn't aggressive enough to be called a compound. As long as I only use Meguiars Ultimate Compound 2-3 times a year I should be ok.
 
Just ordered some Meguiar's G19216EU Ultimate Car Polish and some Meguiar's X3080EU Even Coat 5 Inch Microfibre Applicator Pads (2 Pack).

The polish is less aggressive than the Ultimate Compound so I'll try that first next time.
 
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nlel1975 - You're not listening to what people are telling you, whether that be intentional or not, I'm not sure.

Anything abrasive, be it compound or polish, should not be used as a method for removing pieces of contamination from your paintwork.

They're paint correction products that should be used when required (required being when you see swirls, scratches and/or oxidation). You only use them on paintwork that has been throughly decontaminated through chemical methods and a clay bar.

Whilst an intensive process, it's a process that doesn't require repeating often:

  • Pre-wash with either snow foam or a citrus based pre-wash. This removes as much muck as possible prior to contact washing
  • Wash with a dedicated, non-wax shampoo
  • Use chemical decontamination such as fall out remover and tar remover. This prevents the clay in the next step from becoming overloaded too quickly, and/or picking up large pieces
  • Clay the car using a clay bar or clay mitt and lube (personally prefer a bar as you can fold the contaminated surface into the middle of the clay). Claying must only be carried out if you're planning on polishing afterwards as being an abrasive, it will dull the paint appearance
  • Compound and/or polish - depends on the level of correction needed, swirls need a more aggressive compound and will required a polish to refine the paint back to a shine. Think of it as going from a coarse to finer grit sandpaper in metalwork
  • Remove polish oils from paint using a panel prep product
  • Apply protection such as wax or ceramic coating
After that, it's just maintenance washing, preferably using pH neutral cleaning products to keep the protection intact for as long as possible.

I'm not sure what dirt it is in your pictures but it shouldn't be removed using an abrasive, even a light abrasive such as a polish. Meguiars have a YT channel that includes a polishing guide and you'll see they thoroughly decontaminate the car before using their compound or polish.

My maintenance wash is a snow foam, followed by a pH neutral shampoo contact wash and all major pieces of dirt are removed - I only have a battery powered Worx jet wash too, which isn't as powerful as a mains powered jet wash. Anything left behind is usually tar and I dab that off using Bilt Hamber cleansing fluid which is a panel prep liquid that can also remove tar.
 
That’s far to involved for me, I just pre rinse the car with my worx battery powered jet wash. Then wash the car with Armor All wash and wax, dry it then apply compound or in future polish, then wash and wax it again and finally rinse the car with my worx jet wash again.

Next time I do it I’m going to use a separate wax and shampoo as that’s better then an all in one wash and wax product.
 
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