Mother Mine - Extreme Mining Setup

Ah fair comment.
So had another electrician round. He checked and confirmed I only have 2.5mm core going to the garage (assuming its a radial?)

Max rating would be around 20Amps. He claimed I could get around 4000W, 4500 at a push.

So just depends how much 6 X 280Xs draw really.

Can anyone recommend any decent current probes/power socket probes?>
 
Cavallino said:
Ah fair comment.
So had another electrician round. He checked and confirmed I only have 2.5mm core going to the garage (assuming its a radial?)

Max rating would be around 20Amps. He claimed I could get around 4000W, 4500 at a push.

So just depends how much 6 X 280Xs draw really.

Can anyone recommend any decent current probes/power socket probes?>
Click to expand...

All sounds sensible, I'm picking up energenie power plug this evening so will let you. Do you actually want current clamps or just a simple plug in solution?
 
Mike306 said:
Red and bold - who made you a mod?

AFAIK that rule is for specific 'image threads' only as it happens a lot. Hopefully a mod will clarify this rule.

[e] It is a rule for Project logs
"NO IMAGE QUOTING - IMAGE QUOTING WILL RESULT IN A THREE DAY SUSPENSION. IMAGE QUOTING A POST IN THE POST BELOW IT WILL RESULT IN A MONTH SUSPENSION - YOUR SIGNATURE WILL ALSO BE CHANGED TO REFLECT YOUR MISTAKES" http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=17071897&postcount=1
Click to expand...

If I have it in a spoiler it would keep the thread looking tidy, don't know if that is still frowned upon :s
 
Awesome setup!

I am very tempted by an LTC asic when it is out, but worried it will be like BTC: cannot sell it anywhere.
 
Are you seriously going to run a 2.5mm cable from house to garage to draw 7kw? If so, do not do it, you are taking a serious risk.

2.5mm is nowhere near it. At 7kw you will be lucky to get away with 6.0mm depending on volts drop for cable run, and ambient temperature. Also, you need to protect the supply cable at 40A, 32A is too neat. You need to install a consumer unit in the room where kit is being housed, and then run a couple of 4.0mm ring mains fused at 32A.

The additional cost for cable upgrade is absolute pennies compared to what you are spending on this set up.
 
String said:
Are you seriously going to run a 2.5mm cable from house to garage to draw 7kw? If so, do not do it, you are taking a serious risk.

2.5mm is nowhere near it. At 7kw you will be lucky to get away with 6.0mm depending on volts drop for cable run, and ambient temperature. Also, you need to protect the supply cable at 40A, 32A is too neat. You need to install a consumer unit in the room where kit is being housed, and then run a couple of 4.0mm ring mains fused at 32A.

The additional cost for cable upgrade is absolute pennies compared to what you are spending on this set up.
Click to expand...

Directed at me? If so I think you misunderstood me.
Im not going to be running 7kW with a 2.5mm core.
Im considering going one above 6mm (a core which gives 45A) to be on the safeside.

Im just waiting for the quote to come back for the work, any ideas how much I should be charged?
 
Cavallino said:
Directed at me? If so I think you misunderstood me.
Im not going to be running 7kW with a 2.5mm core.
Im considering going one above 6mm (a core which gives 45A) to be on the safeside.

Im just waiting for the quote to come back for the work, any ideas how much I should be charged?
Click to expand...

One above 6mm is 10.0mm and now you're talking! Phew!

I'm an electrician mate, but pricing it is a bit tricky. Really depends on what he's installing, quality of materials and cable lengths etc

What's the distance from your power supply to the garage, roughly?
 
String said:
One above 6mm is 10.0mm and now you're talking! Phew!

I'm an electrician mate, but pricing it is a bit tricky. Really depends on what he's installing, quality of materials and cable lengths etc

What's the distance from your power supply to the garage, roughly?
Click to expand...

Fantastic! Just the man to speak to :)

Let me draw it out for you and upload it. Give me 5 mins.
 
6khn.jpg


Obviously not to scale :D
The Consumer unit is located in the utility room.
There is already a armoured cable (2.5mm live core) to the garage under the paving.

So just a case of lifting the paving blocks (which I believe will be cemented and bit of a bugger to lift up I guess but the sparkys son is a builder and can take care of that part).
.
And then laying the new cable in (fuse box already installed just a case of changing the breaker I guess to a higher amp rating).

Thoughts bud?
 
A 2 metre cable run won't provide issues with volts drop, so that's fine. What's the total load going to be? Probably easier just telling me how many PSU's at what wattage each. Also, will the garage be used for anything else (additional electrical load). I'm assuming you have lights in there, just a couple of fluorescent fittings? What about heat, no electrical heaters I presume?
 
A man after my own heart. You asked the same questions I asked and I have prepared the answers :)

1. I have 6 x 280x per rig which Ive been informed should run off 1600W. But I currently have 2 x 1200W per 6 x 280x. Worst case call it 2000W per rig (which I think is too much anyway but lets be cautious).

2. The garage has 2 fridges and 1 fridge freezer, and 2 x 100W lights. I also sometimes run a 2000W heater but can forgo that if necessary :D
 
Cavallino said:
A man after my own heart. You asked the same questions I asked and I have prepared the answers :)

1. I have 6 x 280x per rig which Ive been informed should run off 1600W. But I currently have 2 x 1200W per 6 x 280x. Worst case call it 2000W per rig (which I think is too much anyway but lets be cautious).

2. The garage has 2 fridges and 1 fridge freezer, and 2 x 100W lights. I also sometimes run a 2000W heater but can forgo that if necessary :D
Click to expand...

1. Each rig is rated at 2.4 KW due to the sum of the power supplies, so we need to calculate on that. If we reach a border line at that load, you can start tong testing to confirm actual load. For now, it's 2.4KW. How many rigs at that load?

2. Let's assume heater will be used, so for heater and fridges etc we add another 2.4Kw. Again, if this takes us to a border line you can't just say you won't use the heater... You need to remove it from the garage.

The load in the garage isn't your only concern, you need to think about load in your house because the load in the garage is guaranteed constant because I'm assuming you aren't spending all this cash to run the system for half an hour a day... 24 hour operation, yes? So, biggest loads in your house are cooker, heating and shower. Are any of these electric?

BTW, I'm not trying to be negative here... The last thing you want is to throw cash at this and find fuses blowing all over the place or worse.
 
String said:
1. Each rig is rated at 2.4 KW due to the sum of the power supplies, so we need to calculate on that. If we reach a border line at that load, you can start tong testing to confirm actual load. For now, it's 2.4KW. How many rigs at that load?

2. Let's assume heater will be used, so for heater and fridges etc we add another 2.4Kw. Again, if this takes us to a border line you can't just say you won't use the heater... You need to remove it from the garage.

The load in the garage isn't your only concern, you need to think about load in your house because the load in the garage is guaranteed constant because I'm assuming you aren't spending all this cash to run the system for half an hour a day... 24 hour operation, yes? So, biggest loads in your house are cooker, heating and shower. Are any of these electric?

BTW, I'm not trying to be negative here... The last thing you want is to throw cash at this and find fuses blowing all over the place or worse.
Click to expand...

Fully agree with you.

1. Ok use 2.4kW (this is gonna bite me in the ass I know it). But the reality 6 x 280xs will use less than 2400w, infact I was going to change my PSUs down to 2000W per 6 x 280xs. Shall we base it on 2kW?

Going for 4 rigs but planning for 5. Say 4 for now.

2. Ok go with 2.4kW as you mentioned for all the appliances.(this is going to be upwards of 10kW lol).

And yes the rigs will be on 24/7.

(how the hell is wdnsr running all those rigs lol - hes running just as many cards as I plan to).

I just got my quote back from the electrician. Not happy lol.

Want 5 double sockets put in. How much would you charge for the above?
 
Last edited:
Surprised no one has mentioned "diversity" yet?

A ring main is made with two 2.5mm cables. Diversity is calculated in the the regs to de-rate circuits which are unlikely to use their full capacity. Connecting mining rigs is a different scenario and is not suitable for consideration as a ring main. It is moreso a commercial grade installation in a house, and as such the regs do not cater for it.

There is no such thing as a 4.0mm ring main. You would be better off, getting a 64amp breaker in the main consumer unit and sending that via a 10mm FT&E to a 63amp switch fuse running another small distribution unit with two 32 amp MCB's (motor rated to allow for the inrush when they all kick in) and an RCD. Then run 6mm from the 32A MCB's into a double clad twin socket outlet, one for each RCD. Now you can pull what you like without fear of volt-drop, diversity or any other scenario.

The breakers are not there to protect your computers. They are not there to save them in event of an overload. They are there solely to protect the wiring from acting as a fuse and bursting into flames in a short circuit scenario.

Domestic wiring is not designed in the wiring regulations for this purpose; it is designed so that Billy can run a computer in one room, Jackie can do hair for ten minutes with a big hair dryer, Dad can mow the lawn and mum can cook a roast.. but not all together and not continually. If people fail to grasp the risks associated with overloading electrical circuits, then they will witness first hand overloaded and burned out sockets and fires. Sorry to sound like an alarmist but having witnessed such things over the last 30 years, I speak with sentiment and experience.

If you call in an electrician, ensure that you tell him that your equipment will draw X amps from the socket continually. Also tell him that the ambient temperature in that area is X degrees because he will have to derate the cables load carrying capacity due to the excessive ambient temperature. When the ambient rises, the resistance goes up (just like Delta T) and the carrying capacity goes down.

There are some great builds here guys. Just as you've spent a lot of time reseaching your rigs, please do the same with your electrical installations. A domestic sparky even with 17th Edition Part P is not used to seeing an installation like this in a domestic house. Please treat the installation as a commercial one because that is exactly what it is. Sorry for the lecture.
 
Cavallino said:
Fully agree with you.

1. Ok use 2.4kW (this is gonna bite me in the ass I know it). But the reality 6 x 280xs will use less than 2400w, infact I was going to change my PSUs down to 2000W per 6 x 280xs. Shall we base it on 2kW?

Going for 4 rigs but planning for 5. Say 4 for now.

2. Ok go with 2.4kW as you mentioned for all the appliances.(this is going to be upwards of 10kW lol).

And yes the rigs will be on 24/7.

(how the hell is wdnsr running all those rigs lol - hes running just as many cards as I plan to).

I just got my quote back from the electrician. Not happy lol.

Want 5 double sockets put in. How much would you charge for the above?
Click to expand...

First of all, wdnsr had a fuse box malfunction so the answer is he didn't manage to run all those rigs. He is also having problems running them all currently. Secondly, just because something works doesn't mean it's ok. You could run a domestic shower with 2.5mm cable... But you could also fry an egg on that same cable when it's running, and showers don't run 24/7 like your mine will!

Post or PM me the quote if you don't mind. I honestly can't get into what I would do it for because I haven't worked out what you need yet.

You still haven't told me what heats, cooks and cleans in your house, gas or electricity? Will also need to know if your cable head fuse is 63A or 100A.

As for the actual draw of each rig, this is being debated a bit here. There's one easy way to settle it, build one of them and plug it in via a current metre and it'll tell you to the exact watt. I can link you to a cheap current metre if you don't have one already.

I'll post back with some sums on worst case scenario load based on what you have told me so far.
 
rush_syndrome said:
Surprised no one has mentioned "diversity" yet?

A ring main is made with two 2.5mm cables. Diversity is calculated in the the regs to de-rate circuits which are unlikely to use their full capacity. Connecting mining rigs is a different scenario and is not suitable for consideration as a ring main. It is moreso a commercial grade installation in a house, and as such the regs do not cater for it.

There is no such thing as a 4.0mm ring main. You would be better off, getting a 64amp breaker in the main consumer unit and sending that via a 10mm FT&E to a 63amp switch fuse running another small distribution unit with two 32 amp MCB's (motor rated to allow for the inrush when they all kick in) and an RCD. Then run 6mm from the 32A MCB's into a double clad twin socket outlet, one for each RCD. Now you can pull what you like without fear of volt-drop, diversity or any other scenario.

The breakers are not there to protect your computers. They are not there to save them in event of an overload. They are there solely to protect the wiring from acting as a fuse and bursting into flames in a short circuit scenario.

Domestic wiring is not designed in the wiring regulations for this purpose; it is designed so that Billy can run a computer in one room, Jackie can do hair for ten minutes with a big hair dryer, Dad can mow the lawn and mum can cook a roast.. but not all together and not continually. If people fail to grasp the risks associated with overloading electrical circuits, then they will witness first hand overloaded and burned out sockets and fires. Sorry to sound like an alarmist but having witnessed such things over the last 30 years, I speak with sentiment and experience.

If you call in an electrician, ensure that you tell him that your equipment will draw X amps from the socket continually. Also tell him that the ambient temperature in that area is X degrees because he will have to derate the cables load carrying capacity due to the excessive ambient temperature. When the ambient rises, the resistance goes up (just like Delta T) and the carrying capacity goes down.

There are some great builds here guys. Just as you've spent a lot of time reseaching your rigs, please do the same with your electrical installations. A domestic sparky even with 17th Edition Part P is not used to seeing an installation like this in a domestic house. Please treat the installation as a commercial one because that is exactly what it is. Sorry for the lecture.
Click to expand...

Don't apologise for the lecture! I'm an industrial electrician and this is why I am asking for so much info. You are spot on. Domestic installations are not designed for this type of constant load. It may be possible in this case, but sums need to be worked out and the correct kit installed.

And yes, an RCD for the installation is also a must.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom