Mountain Biking

Guest2 said:
I'm not sure if I replied to this but I did try sitting on a 26" bike, a 27.5 and a 29, I didnt try them out properly though. The 29 to me felt big and far too peculiar. It almost felt like I was riding on top of the wheel! The 27.5 felt better but stuck with the 26.

Re head angle, the On-one head angle is 65.7, does this mean it is more 'slack' and have quicker steering than something say of 70 degrees that will go in a straighter line? The top tube is 603mm and seat angle 71.2 degrees. I have heard these numbers also play a big part.

Either way, I will find out soon as its in the build queue
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A 65.7 degree HA will be slacker and have slower steering than 70 degrees. It will be better when the going gets steeper and rougher.
 
SpudMaster said:
A 65.7 degree HA will be slacker and have slower steering than 70 degrees. It will be better when the going gets steeper and rougher.
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Thanks.

I doubt a beginner like me will notice any difference - or will just get used to tge 65 degree angle.

I guess its possible to take the parts (groupset, forks & wheels) and put them onto a different frame if I feel like it in the future. I see you can get all the parts seperate so (once i learn how) I could stick the ~£1000 of parts onto a frame with different geometry which is better (or less slack)
 
Guest2 said:
Thanks.

I doubt a beginner like me will notice any difference - or will just get used to tge 65 degree angle.

I guess its possible to take the parts (groupset, forks & wheels) and put them onto a different frame if I feel like it in the future. I see you can get all the parts seperate so (once i learn how) I could stick the ~£1000 of parts onto a frame with different geometry which is better (or less slack)
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it go with a frame with a HA around 66 degrees over 70 everytime
 
Guest2 said:
Areeee. I read it as 'It goes with a frame...' Makes more sense now. Groupset :p
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Regarding trail bike geometry, the trend amongst reviewers seems to be to praise anything with a slack head angle(under 68°), steep seat tube (over 70°) lengthy TT/reach & short chainstay.

You'll find most ON-ONE trail bikes have most boxes ticked but they seem to have a shorter reach than is currently fashionable. Still cracking bikes, I'd love to have a go on a 45650b Evo, or whatever they call it.

Edit: You can get lost & hung up with Geo/measurements, just be comfortable with the fact you have a nice bike on the way & get out and ride it.
 
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I sat on it (456) and thought it just felt right. Not that i have much experience of bies but it felt nicer than the 29ers i had sat on... Even though i was told in evans that 26" wheels are dieing out and i should go for 29.

Maybe for bigger people they are better but im only 5 9

Edit - onto a different subject that us related to mountain and road biking... How do you stop the boney bit either side of you ahole from getting punished?! Mine are killing after 10 minutes on my housemates roadbike. Gelshorts/padded shorts recommended or some sort of seat donut perhaps?
 
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Evans are wrong, though they are right about 26" dying out. I wouldn't read into it too much though.

But transferring over you're components to a different frame is possible mostly, aslong as it matches the frame. I.E the headtube, wheel size etc. I wouldn't worry about it just yet though..
 
Ive never ridden a 29'er but being only 5'10" myself I can't see them being beneficial for my style & type of riding.

My most recent bike has been a 650b trail bike but honestly there doesn't seem to be much difference between it and a 26" wheeled bike. If anything it's a little harder to pedal up & virtually identical on the decents.

26'ers will be around for a long time to come, trust me.

Edit: In regards to ass pain. Buy a comfier saddle & man up, takes my behind a good few rides to toughen up when I've been through a period of non-cycling activity. The Charge Spoon is an awesome saddle which suits most people's backsides.
 
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Just changed all my frame and wheel bearings, my god it was harder than i thought it would be. The front wheel was easy, 10 minutes work but the back was a real pain, 3 bearings in the hub 2 in the free wheel and all the pawls falling out!

The frame bearings pressed out perfect but getting them back in was a nightmare! Resorted to grips and taking my time. The bearing press wasn't man enough for the frame.

All done now, max compliment bearings in all the frame, new hope lower headset and bearing, new pedal bushes and bearings, all new wheel bearings front and rear, rear brake bled, new chain and new du bearing in rear shock hardware. Bushes in chain stay only about 5 rides old, forks serviced by tf 3 rides ago.

Surprisingly the bearings that i took out were all good quality made in Japan! Just a lot of them had seal failure. UK weather too much for em. 4 or 5 of them
Seized literally solid, 3 of them from rear wheel.

Gxp bottom bracket nearly dead after 2 rides. Full of water the piece of crud, so flushed it out and packed with juice lubes bearing grease. Feels alright now. When my moneys up I'll hope stainless it.

This bike is just bad luck, more maintenance than ride.

To be fair it feels uber tight and slick now if that makes sense, it feels new!
 
Its excellent for hub bearings and was invaluble for press out ghe frame bearing, but it couldnt quite press them back in so i had to use grips and the patience of a saint. I wouldnt of got the frame bearings out without it. Worth every penny.
 
Checked my frame bearings yesterday, not too bad but a bit gritty so will need doing soon. Located the rattle I was worried about (cough rear brake pads cough).

If anyone can wait a month or two I'm going to do my bearings then I think and try out the Superstar tool i posted about on the last page.

Endro site had an interesting article about changing bearings and longevity recently - http://enduro-mtb.com/en/opinion-changing-bearings-dont-leave-it-too-late/
 
Went round some local trails yesterday and some of the stuff that has been built around Machen woods is bloody insane.. I don't mind a jump or two but some of these were massive lol! Suffice to say my man flu stopped me hitting them (good excuse?)
 
anyone (cow?) fitted a renthal apex stem?

people say you have to slide the clampy bits over your bars? from the ends? (having to remove all the brakes grips etc) or just from a narrower part?

p.s went to tidworth on saturday - it was running so well - cant wait to go back
 
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