Oi!They're easily do able on a hardtail I'll have you know
fair play to those with a real hardtail, im talking about the guys who have apollo bikes who generally go at a snails pace sat down.
Mountain Biking
- Thread starter Zefan
- Start date
fair play to those with a real hardtail, im talking about the guys who have apollo bikes who generally go at a snails pace sat down.
worked well deterring me from those blacks, especially the 50 shades of black
Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Feb 2010
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- 5,212
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- Southampton
anyone tried the new m8000 xt?
getting bad chain rattle on my spitty, so thinking a bigger front chainring would give it more room (32t currently move to a 34t) - the chain gets really close to the bottom of the chainstay near the BB and clanks on it a lot (tried sticky velcro didnt help much)
34t with the 42t max cassette would be a good replacement for my 32t / 36t combo? maybe the 40t would be better as less chain needed then ? (less chain = less slap in the small gears) maybe any change from my 32-36 would make it worse as there would be more chain ?
ive got a top guide and type 2 mech but dont really want a bottom roller, seems to clank on everything on rough bits
got the chain running as short as possible too, think as its an older chain its got a lot of play in it - maybe making it move about more?
cow - did you get chain slap on your spitfire?
getting bad chain rattle on my spitty, so thinking a bigger front chainring would give it more room (32t currently move to a 34t) - the chain gets really close to the bottom of the chainstay near the BB and clanks on it a lot (tried sticky velcro didnt help much)
34t with the 42t max cassette would be a good replacement for my 32t / 36t combo? maybe the 40t would be better as less chain needed then ? (less chain = less slap in the small gears) maybe any change from my 32-36 would make it worse as there would be more chain ?
ive got a top guide and type 2 mech but dont really want a bottom roller, seems to clank on everything on rough bits
got the chain running as short as possible too, think as its an older chain its got a lot of play in it - maybe making it move about more?
cow - did you get chain slap on your spitfire?
Dead silent, you just need to wrap it properly with rubber - velcro doesn't deaden sound so well.
Wrapped the CS top and bottom it with self adhesive rubber, and it didn't make a sound. Also with a 32t front
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1917...ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80
Just do top and bottom
This works too in some cases, depending on how well youve applied it (just stick it in the inside)
Wrapped the CS top and bottom it with self adhesive rubber, and it didn't make a sound. Also with a 32t front
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1917...ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80
Just do top and bottom
This works too in some cases, depending on how well youve applied it (just stick it in the inside)
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Other than self-adhesive and pre-cut , not at all different. You can make inner tube look like the top one if you want to. The bottom one where you just have it half way / on the inside will look pants using innertube.
It's all about how it looks on your pride and joy after all.
It's all about how it looks on your pride and joy after all.
Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Feb 2010
- Posts
- 5,212
- Location
- Southampton
ok ive ordered some - ill try it out!
90% of my riding is done at the Thetford forest trail centre and the near by trails at Brandon park. I'd say this was firmly in the XC category as far as my knowledge goes.
I'll give them a try on my current bike as I'm familiar with it and get an idea of what to do with the new bike when I get it. That is if I ever decide on what wheel size to go for. I now have a bike mentally lined up in all three
the only thing to be mindful of now is what shoe/pedal combo to get.
You get MTB shoes with a solid roadie like base and you get ones more touring orientated where you can walk in them like a normal shoe (so not as efficient or reassuring)
same with the pedals, you get one with a touring style (flat one side, clipped the other) and some with a bit of a base fto them for more reassurance. Maybe buy some SH pedals, I noticed they go for a lot less than RRP as people don't like them and sell on soon after buying
I've already got SPD pedals on my hybrid and road bike so I can try either M424 or M530 on my MTB. I've also got MTB shoes that I use for road riding as being able to walk easily in them is a must for me.
I've gone round in circles so many times with what bike to get that I'm tempted to just buy a new fork for my GT and do without disc brakes
I've gone round in circles so many times with what bike to get that I'm tempted to just buy a new fork for my GT and do without disc brakes
I tried some Crank Brothers and they were definitely better than the Shimano system, allows more movement of the foot while still staying attached, found them harder to engage though. My feet went numb though so went back to standard pedals, might give them another go when i can be arsed trying different cleat positions.
anyone tried the new m8000 xt?
getting bad chain rattle on my spitty, so thinking a bigger front chainring would give it more room (32t currently move to a 34t) - the chain gets really close to the bottom of the chainstay near the BB and clanks on it a lot (tried sticky velcro didnt help much)
34t with the 42t max cassette would be a good replacement for my 32t / 36t combo? maybe the 40t would be better as less chain needed then ? (less chain = less slap in the small gears) maybe any change from my 32-36 would make it worse as there would be more chain ?
ive got a top guide and type 2 mech but dont really want a bottom roller, seems to clank on everything on rough bits
got the chain running as short as possible too, think as its an older chain its got a lot of play in it - maybe making it move about more?
cow - did you get chain slap on your spitfire?
Could be the clutch not working properly in your type 2. I had simular problems with my type 2. If you pop of the round black plastic cap on the face of the clutch mechanism you'll uncover a T55 bolt which you can try tightening. Only do a 1/4 turn at first then if no joy go for 1/2 turn. The bolts no tight so if you dont have a T55 then a big flat head screw driver or allen key will suffice.
I do like that at the start of BPW's trails. Once you get started you usually get a relatively clean run.
I've done all the blacks lower down the mountain, but I'm not sure where to find the confidence for the gap jumps at the top black runs... After breaking my rib in the spring I'm much more cautious than I was before.
I was slightly scared of the gap jump at the start of Dai Hard, so I avoided it.
/chickenI think it's more the case of "go wrong, and break a wheel/frame/face" than anything else to be honest. I probably could clear it fine, I just don't want the repair bill if I misjudge it!
First time actually mountain biking since I got my mtb. Went to glentress tried out couple of the blue loops and couple of the reds and survived (probably because I was slower than a week in the jail)
Got some shorts and gloves as well as dmr v8 pedals and lizzard skin grips to swap out my stock ones.
Safe to say I've caught the bug
Got some shorts and gloves as well as dmr v8 pedals and lizzard skin grips to swap out my stock ones.
Safe to say I've caught the bug
I've been using Mutanos but they're pretty naff for winter riding where I am. Ive been looking at High Roller IIs, Conti Barons and Spesh Purgatory Controls as fronts. Nobby Nics as rears.
This is for predominantly peaks based riding in the winter.
This is for predominantly peaks based riding in the winter.