Mountain Biking

Decent pedals + 510s = no need to clip in anyway.

Yep set your brakes up for the position when you'll be braking the most aggressively otherwise your going to end up straining your wrist..
 
clipsnflats


ps: Your brake positioning is awful, when standing with your elbows out, your brakes need to be more or less at the same angle as your arms/wrist to the bar.

@Begbie: Jeez man, that sounds awful!
I suffer from really dry and burny eyes 99% of the time, that would be a death sentence for me!


Gave mine away to a mte - found them very flimsy and a lot of play in them.
 
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I've just been and bought a 9in1 tool and the pedals are not on with the 8mm hex. Is it a torx tool needed to change the brake position (big black nut on the first image and big silver on the second)

Is it also correct that the right brake is guide RSC and the left Guide R? On the right is a torx nut and left is just covered up with a rubber stopper thing!

nebRRG1.jpg.png

H7FaQ5R.jpg.png

I should have these

SRAM Guide R Hydraulic Disc Brake Front 900mm
SRAM Guide R Hydraulic Disc Brake Rear 1600mm 20

On the forks is a PSI indicator. This is where it is at the moment
NZdfpW6.jpg.png
 
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Well, the RSC is the higher spec brake...up to you if you want to flag it to where you bought it or not.

The forks do not have a PSI indicator, it indicates your sag percentage. (there is a relationship between the two of course)


They show you here how to set the sag on your fork
 
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Yes its the torx (t25) to adjust levers. Your brakes are indeed odd, but you've been specced up one side so i wouldnt bother kicking up a fuss, you've got a bonus to be fair.

Thats a sag meter on your fork leg, it should be at around 25% when dressed in riding gear sat on your bike in an "attacking/aggresive" stance. From the stanction crown combo they look like pikes so if you run at 25% and bottom out easy you can put a couple "bottomless tokens" in and it will ramp up to stop bottomng but stay super kool on small bumpies
 
After paralysis through over analysis I took the first steps to getting ready for BC bike race.

Picked up an enduro 29 comp today from freeborn cycles (who are a fantastic shop). Next upgrades are invisiframe (I think) and a reverb 125mm. I picked up a 2014 so the formula brakes may need upgraded

Other than that, I think I need to get cracking
 
Thanks for replies re clips

Went out today on a bridle path ride. I fell off when clipped in about 1 minute into the ride. Good job there was a barrier next to the river or I would have been in head first! (handle bar very slightly clipped a railing)

I turned back after 20km due to handle bar holder/mount thing in the middle coming lose and my bars spinning around. This started getting quite dangerous because if I put any weight on the gears would roll under and the brake would shoot up. I had my finger on the front break at one point when it did this and made me press sharply on the brake.

I have tightened them now but 6 screws were all loose. It was like Planet X completely forgot to tighten them or though "I'm having this ****"

Even though I was only on a bridle path, the ride was pretty bone shaking over light rocks/cobbles. I did find when I sped up it was better

In all a good test run - First fall due to clips and if we had gone to the Lakes and done a red route then I would have been shot over the un-tightened handle bars. Also lesson learned to take a multitool (which I left at home)

Clips wise they felt good to me, I liked the fact my feet didnt bounce around all over the place and come off the pedals when going over bumpy bits (and ended up with cuts in my shins as before)

edit - I'm going to order the Airwave Suspension Shock Pump 2015 from chain reaction. Is the Airwave Surge Mini Pump also OK for a tyre pump? It's only a tenner. Or something like this better (but 2.5x the cost) Lezyne Pressure Drive Mini Pump
 
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Re: Flats. Your feet only really bounce off the pedals when you dont work/move with the bike over the rough stuff. A large, unexpected, square edge hit may do this but you wouldn't believe some of the hits my bike has taken without bucking my feet off.

It's all good though, might as well stick with the clips now that you're all geared up Guest. Before you set off for a ride on a new bike you should have double checked most of the bolts just to see they were all done up nice and tight.

As advised, a track pump is best. Mini pumps are alright for trail side repairs, just to get you rolling again.
 
Guest - was the bike semi built when it arrived? Normally there is some slight building and tightening of bolts to be expected before riding.
 
Re: Flats. Your feet only really bounce off the pedals when you dont work/move with the bike over the rough stuff. A large, unexpected, square edge hit may do this but you wouldn't believe some of the hits my bike has taken without bucking my feet off.

It's all good though, might as well stick with the clips now that you're all geared up Guest. Before you set off for a ride on a new bike you should have double checked most of the bolts just to see they were all done up nice and tight.

As advised, a track pump is best. Mini pumps are alright for trail side repairs, just to get you rolling again.

I've always preferred flats and have never had any problems with slippage, but I have just bought some spd because I'm doing a couple of long distance rides soon so anything that makes it a bit easier helps and people say it it's night and day better for leg fatigue
 
Quick PIC from my first trip to bike park Wales last week

AJ0P9477-ZF-8900-89824-1-001.jpg


In short it was bloody awesome
 
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