Mountain Biking

Are five tens any better than they used to be I have some old impact ones and they're like a sponge feels like they add a kilo to each foot when they are wet and they always felt a bit cheap. I do need some new bike shoes.

I own two pairs of five tens but my next shoes will be ride concepts. Check those out.
 
Got a week off in October and half tempted to book a few days abroad and take the bike for some autumn sun riding. Anyone been anywhere good in southern Europe? Was looking at the Canaries, but seems places like Finale Ligure are still reasonable weather that time of year.
 
Are five tens any better than they used to be I have some old impact ones and they're like a sponge feels like they add a kilo to each foot when they are wet and they always felt a bit cheap. I do need some new bike shoes.

I had the old impacts, great shoes but take a while the dry. I did than the new Impacts briefly but swapped them for the Impracts Pros very quickly. Original impacts had a leather\faux leather solid toe area, new impacts its mesh so soon as you hit a puddle your feet are soaking. The new Impact Pros are solid again so keeps water out better. The new impacts do dry quicker than the original ones.

I keep contemplating giving Ride Concepts a try but pretty much all reviews I've read so something like good but not as grippy as FiveTens
 
You want the freerider pros. Best MTB shoe. Not great if the weather is cold and wet but for everything else they are mint.
 
Parts arrived from bikediscount.de and ridewill.it without additional fees :)
I now have everything for a 10 speed LinkGlide setup except a cassette :rolleyes:

I fitted a new Ergon Prime saddle the other day. I had an Ergon sport saddle previously and the difference is immediately noticeable when riding. The flexing of the seat definitely adds to the comfort. Can't wait to try it out properly on a nice long ride.
 
So I was in the "Man shed" yesterday evening with my 15 year old son upgrading is Voodoo Bizango grips, I was dismantling the rear hydraulic break to try and fix the squeaking sound every time he breaks with a small hand blow torch to burn off any contamination, left him for a minute to pop and grab something came back into the shed and there was oil all over the rear tyre and on the floor? Look up and around and asked him what it was, blank look and said he didn't know. Turns out he'd grabbed the rear break whilst the caliper was off the frame, pads out :rolleyes: so had to break clean the whole caliper and area and now ordered a break bleed/refill kit to fix that!!! Kids! Still you live and learn....
 
So I was in the "Man shed" yesterday evening with my 15 year old son upgrading is Voodoo Bizango grips, I was dismantling the rear hydraulic break to try and fix the squeaking sound every time he breaks with a small hand blow torch to burn off any contamination, left him for a minute to pop and grab something came back into the shed and there was oil all over the rear tyre and on the floor? Look up and around and asked him what it was, blank look and said he didn't know. Turns out he'd grabbed the rear break whilst the caliper was off the frame, pads out :rolleyes: so had to break clean the whole caliper and area and now ordered a break bleed/refill kit to fix that!!! Kids! Still you live and learn....
On the plus side, you get to learn how to fully bleed brakes now :p
 
Just signed up to do a 50k group ride in the Peak District next month, 1100m of climbing. That's gonna be some sore legs the day after, and some well deserved beers!
 
So my break bleed kit arrived this morning, first I gave the flip the break leaver level and bounce the bike on it back wheel and screw the small shimano pot in and pump the break, didn’t see a great deal of bubbles to be fair, then did a refill (slowly) flicking and pinging the cables to move the bubbles on, however the break is working but doesn’t feel as firm/hard as it did or the front break does, I’ve now balanced the front wheel up near vertical to see if that helps, not sure what else I can try?
 
So my break bleed kit arrived this morning, first I gave the flip the break leaver level and bounce the bike on it back wheel and screw the small shimano pot in and pump the break, didn’t see a great deal of bubbles to be fair, then did a refill (slowly) flicking and pinging the cables to move the bubbles on, however the break is working but doesn’t feel as firm/hard as it did or the front break does, I’ve now balanced the front wheel up near vertical to see if that helps, not sure what else I can try?


Did you do a full bleed from the caliper? Didn't you take the wheel out and use a bleed block?

How are your rotors and brake pads?

Read your above post, sounds like you'll want to do a full bleed from the caliper and not just the lever. You can get away with that bleed most of the time, but not if you've lost a ton of fluid.
 
Did you do a full bleed from the caliper? Didn't you take the wheel out and use a bleed block?

How are your rotors and brake pads?
First time bleeder here so I’m learning as I go

I are you saying I should drain the whole system and refill?

Or just inject the hydraulic fluid in via the calliper value (obviously open) and watch the fluid fill up at the break handle end?

Callipers were perfect up until this issue, and pads have plenty of meat on them

Thanks for the reply ;)
 
So my break bleed kit arrived this morning, first I gave the flip the break leaver level and bounce the bike on it back wheel and screw the small shimano pot in and pump the break, didn’t see a great deal of bubbles to be fair, then did a refill (slowly) flicking and pinging the cables to move the bubbles on, however the break is working but doesn’t feel as firm/hard as it did or the front break does, I’ve now balanced the front wheel up near vertical to see if that helps, not sure what else I can try?

I have had good success with the following but if it doesn't work I would do a full bleed from the calliper.

1. Wind the lever reach all the way out as far as you can from the bar
2. Compress the lever quite firmly and use a bit of material or a cable tie to lock that down to the bar.
3. Prop the bike up in a position where the lever is as high above the calliper as possible. Rear calliper stand the bike up on the rear wheel, front is fine just standing on both wheels.
4. Leave for a few hours.

If possible, try to do the next step in the same position i.e. standing on rear wheel for rear calliper. This should migrate most/all of the air bubbles to the lever end.

Then do the standard "lazy" brake bleed. Lever parallel to floor, screw on bleed cup, small amount of oil in cup and pump lever lots and keep changing the angle of the bike is you do this to encourage the last bubbles out.

If that doesn't work, you need to do a full bleed from the calliper.
 
I have had good success with the following but if it doesn't work I would do a full bleed from the calliper.

1. Wind the lever reach all the way out as far as you can from the bar
2. Compress the lever quite firmly and use a bit of material or a cable tie to lock that down to the bar.
3. Prop the bike up in a position where the lever is as high above the calliper as possible. Rear calliper stand the bike up on the rear wheel, front is fine just standing on both wheels.
4. Leave for a few hours.

If possible, try to do the next step in the same position i.e. standing on rear wheel for rear calliper. This should migrate most/all of the air bubbles to the lever end.

Then do the standard "lazy" brake bleed. Lever parallel to floor, screw on bleed cup, small amount of oil in cup and pump lever lots and keep changing the angle of the bike is you do this to encourage the last bubbles out.

If that doesn't work, you need to do a full bleed from the calliper.
Top man, thanks I’ll follow these instructions tomorrow buddy! I’ll let you know how I get on
 
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