Mountain Biking
- Thread starter Zefan
- Start date
First time bleeder here so I’m learning as I go
I are you saying I should drain the whole system and refill?
Or just inject the hydraulic fluid in via the calliper value (obviously open) and watch the fluid fill up at the break handle end?
Callipers were perfect up until this issue, and pads have plenty of meat on them
Thanks for the reply
I assume previously you just attached the cup to the lever and never added a syringe to the caliper?
In my experience if you lose fluid, that's not going to work. Attach a syringe to the caliper and force the fluid from the caliper up. With a break block in, not the wheel.
The 5 min bleed is really good if they're working mostly good and you want them better.
Didn't actually watch this, but it's probably right. There's a ton similar though.
How to Bleed Shimano Disc Brakes – Mountain Bike Maintenance
Here Neil runs you through bleeding your Shimano mountain bike disc brakes. This is a job you should do every now and again when your brakes start to feel sp...
youtu.be
How to Bleed Hydraulic Brakes - Shimano® Flat Bar Levers
This video will go over how to bleed Shimano® hydraulic disc brakes featuring flat bar levers using the Park Tool BKM-1 Brake Bleed Kit. Questions or comment...
youtu.be
I normally find the park tool videos useful.
Soldato
Oh I also did the calliper and syringe bleed? Pumped it in really really slowly, flicking the pipe couple of bubbles popped up, but the break is still spongy? I’ve raised the front wheel up 90 degrees and left it over night, see if the bubbles (if any) make their way upI assume previously you just attached the cup to the lever and never added a syringe to the caliper?
In my experience if you lose fluid, that's not going to work. Attach a syringe to the caliper and force the fluid from the caliper up. With a break block in, not the wheel.
The 5 min bleed is really good if they're working mostly good and you want them better.
Didn't actually watch this, but it's probably right. There's a ton similar though.
How to Bleed Shimano Disc Brakes – Mountain Bike Maintenance
Here Neil runs you through bleeding your Shimano mountain bike disc brakes. This is a job you should do every now and again when your brakes start to feel sp...
How to Bleed Hydraulic Brakes - Shimano® Flat Bar Levers
This video will go over how to bleed Shimano® hydraulic disc brakes featuring flat bar levers using the Park Tool BKM-1 Brake Bleed Kit. Questions or comment...
I normally find the park tool videos useful.
Will go check shortly
Soldato
Oh I also did the calliper and syringe bleed? Pumped it in really really slowly, flicking the pipe couple of bubbles popped up, but the break is still spongy? I’ve raised the front wheel up 90 degrees and left it over night, see if the bubbles (if any) make their way up
Will go check shortly
If my understanding is correct. Your son pressed the lever and popped the pistons out causing the leak? If thats the case I would definately do a full bleed personally.
Syringes at caliper and bleed cup/syringe at lever. Push fluid up from caliper into lever syring/bleed cup. Push the fluid back and forth a few times until you cant see any air bubbles. Tapping hoses, caliper and lever as you go to help dislodge any trapped air. Press lever and let it flick back a few times.
Whilst doing this have the lever reach set as far out as posible and any pad engagement adjustment wound fully off if you can that option.
Check youtube for your brake model as I'm sure someone will have made a guide for your exact brake type
Soldato
Correct, I didn’t get time to even go in the shed yesterday with Father’s Day etc but plan to have another go one night this week after work, the above it a good shout thoughIf my understanding is correct. Your son pressed the lever and popped the pistons out causing the leak? If thats the case I would definately do a full bleed personally.
Syringes at caliper and bleed cup/syringe at lever. Push fluid up from caliper into lever syring/bleed cup. Push the fluid back and forth a few times until you cant see any air bubbles. Tapping hoses, caliper and lever as you go to help dislodge any trapped air. Press lever and let it flick back a few times.
Whilst doing this have the lever reach set as far out as posible and any pad engagement adjustment wound fully off if you can that option.
Check youtube for your brake model as I'm sure someone will have made a guide for your exact brake type
Caporegime
No but I've been tempted. They hire them out at bedgebury for £10 or something like that for half a day. My mate hired one but it kept dropping out and requires a fair bit of good riding to work.
Myself and a friend signed up to do the Steel Valley ride in July, 50km around the northern Peak District with about 1100m of climbing. Looks to be a decent loop, quite a bit of tarmac on the return loop but it’s just the way routes tend to go, all the fun stuff on the way out!
Still, looks fun! Few tricky climbs and interesting descents
Still, looks fun! Few tricky climbs and interesting descents
Soldato
Looks like a decent loop, have done Derwent a few times, spud alley, lockerbrook etc and have just done Cut Gate for the first time on Wednesday night, up one side then down the other, spin round and back up and down to the start. It was a bit sketchy in places!
Ordered some tan wall Schwalbe tyres (MM/BB) to replace the wearing down Michelin Wild Enduros - unsure if socially acceptable 
In fairness, they were on a mega offer and around £30 less than the same tyres in full black, so I'd rather just pocket that money regardless of appearance (but I think they might look quite interesting on a raw carbon frame bike)
In fairness, they were on a mega offer and around £30 less than the same tyres in full black, so I'd rather just pocket that money regardless of appearance (but I think they might look quite interesting on a raw carbon frame bike)
Soldato
I'm the meat in a Mary and Betty sandwich on both my bikes
Soldato
Had my trail bike just over a year now so decided to remove the BB today, regrease, reinstall or replace etc. Well that was the plan anyway. Drive side cup came out no problem, non drive would not seem to loosen and have to use tool to unscrew it out. When it was out the BB shell and BB cup threads are damaged. This is the stock BB that came with the bike, installed by Orbea!
Took my frame to LBS where I bought the bike to make a warranty claim. They have the frame now to take pictures of and send to Orbea for a response from them.
Anyone else experienced anything like this? I'm worried Orbea are just going to say I've done this, leaving me with a frame I can't install a BB into
Took my frame to LBS where I bought the bike to make a warranty claim. They have the frame now to take pictures of and send to Orbea for a response from them.
Anyone else experienced anything like this? I'm worried Orbea are just going to say I've done this, leaving me with a frame I can't install a BB into
Soldato
So it was cross threaded from the start? That sucks. Hopefully they sort it but I'd also have same fear of being blamed.
On another note I'm waiting on delivery of my Charger 2.1 damper for my yari. Gonna turn this fella into a lyrik ultimate
On another note I'm waiting on delivery of my Charger 2.1 damper for my yari. Gonna turn this fella into a lyrik ultimate
Anyone had meniscus and acl surgery (penciled in for both) and got back to cycling?
Physio reckons I'm 18 months away from any proper mtb'n and I'm quite tempted to sell the bikes. A of different info about the net, but seems I require surgery, get fixed and then surgery again and then a year potentially before I'm strong enough for anything above a casual ride.
Any advice on rehab, how long it took (if anyone has) would be awesome.
(and don't ride in nikes
Physio reckons I'm 18 months away from any proper mtb'n and I'm quite tempted to sell the bikes. A of different info about the net, but seems I require surgery, get fixed and then surgery again and then a year potentially before I'm strong enough for anything above a casual ride.
Any advice on rehab, how long it took (if anyone has) would be awesome.
(and don't ride in nikes
Soldato
So it was cross threaded from the start? That sucks. Hopefully they sort it but I'd also have same fear of being blamed.
On another note I'm waiting on delivery of my Charger 2.1 damper for my yari. Gonna turn this fella into a lyrik ultimate
Basically yeah, whoever built it at Orbea Cross threaded it. Looking online another guy says he has had two bikes from Orbea with the same problem! Doesn't sound good.
I upgraded my Yari to a Lyric Ultimate about 3 weeks ago. Fork is so much better now, small dump sensitivity is greatly improved, no more spiking and no hurting hands.
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Soldato
I did some research like that when my Specialized wheels just started to pop at the nipples and once presented with all the links etc to chat from Europe to the States in relation to alloy nipples popping, they rebuilt to correct spec without any finger waving or cost to me.
Caporegime
Would be tempted but I prefer shimano and I think they have a wireless groupset coming out for MTB soon. Not sure if it will be like the road setup where you still have an internal battery or not. Doesn't make that much sense when you only need the shifter and rear derailleur.
Soldato
Thats a nightmare for you. Hope they sort it.
I put the charger 2.1 into my old revelation to make that a pike ultimate too. The difference is huge.
Can't wait to get it on my yari. Its took amazon 4 months to source it, I held on patiently because £180 for an rc2 charger 2.1 was mega cheap.
I was on the verge of going for a yari up or push acs3 as an alternative.
Soldato
I hope so because as it stands I've got a one year old bike that I can't install a BB in.
That is a good price. I paid about £250 my charger damper from Europe. Thought that was a good price seen they are are closer to £400 from places like TFTuned