Mountain Biking

Honestly an E-bike has been a game changer for me and the riding I like to do, there is no way I would have progressed as fast on an analogue bike. It's the sheer amount of extra runs I can get in before I'm fatigued. I ride with a friend who has an analogue bike and I'm easily getting twice the amount of runs in a day at bike parks.

I get if you're super into fitness an E-bike may not appeal to you (though you can easily get in just as hard of a workout as on an analogue bike, in the right modes and with a lot of restraint) but the fun factor of an E-bike is leaps ahead, including technical climbs which are actually fun instead of plain out gruelling.

I have to agree, the 16mph limit is a real drag, especially with a heavy bike on downhill casing tyres, it's like hitting thick mud.
I'm used to it now but an increase to 20mph would be the sweet spot I think, especially if you have to do any stints on road where the 16mph can be to slow to let traffic flow.

The worst part for me is if I'm coming up to a bigger jump and need to put a few extra pedal cranks in and I'm already past the limiter.
I'm probably going to derestrict mine but not until the warranty is over. Being the Bosch smart system they make it hard to do, though there are some workarounds, namely disconnecting from the flow app and letting the system self shutdown after rides. It seems a mixed bag, some people get constant error codes while others have zero issues.

As for maintenance / wear and tear, it depends on how mechanically sympathetic you are and the type of riding you do. Expect to go through brake pads, rotors and tyres a lot quicker.
Drivetrains is a mixed bag. Peddling at higher cadence, anticipating gear changes and not changing gear under load (quickest killer of chains and is very easy to do) can massively improve the life span of your drivetrain, and regular cleaning and lubing.

Regular bolt checking is essential too, I discovered my crank arm was dangerously close to falling off after my last park day, a common issue with the Bosch.

Other than that they are epic fun, you're going to love it!
 
Regular bolt checking is essential too, I discovered my crank arm was dangerously close to falling off after my last park day, a common issue with the Bosch.
seems it more to do with brands than Bosch.

when I was researching bikes I came across the crank arm thing it seems the biggest brand with that problem is Trek.


some brands use the rubber washer like Bosch say, others don't.
some mechanics will blue locktite the spider ring, others won't.
I'm probably going to derestrict mine but not until the warranty is over. Being the Bosch smart system they make it hard to do, though there are some workarounds, namely disconnecting from the flow app and letting the system self shutdown after rides. It seems a mixed bag, some people get constant error codes while others have zero issues.

same, waiting for the warranty to run out but even then I might wait half a year, because I've heard of Bosch still doing a motor swap outside of warranty.

As for maintenance / wear and tear, it depends on how mechanically sympathetic you are and the type of riding you do. Expect to go through brake pads, rotors and tyres a lot quicker.

Coming from a cyclocross bike It seems like the opposite my tyres are lasting absolutely ages.

Maxxis downhill tyres, soft on the front and hard on the rear.
MY brake pads still looked great the last time I checked.

Rotors though I expect will wear much faster, as well as the chain and cassette / chainrings

From what I read the chainring teeth will likely start to bend before the teeth are actually worn.

I make the effort to only ever change gear whilst pedalling lightly and I force my self to go through the gears, or I'd just stay in one gear most of the time.. with an Ebike it feels like you don't need the gears :D


I guess suspension maintenance is the biggest cost if you do it like it's recommended, the light maintenance of the seals and changing the oil .The rockshox forks I have recommend something like every 12 hours.... it should be done.

unless your a pro then I doubt you would notice the bump difference anyway, I just keep my stanchions clean and lube them up with WPL forkboost lube/silicon shine.

but then my forks are only worth like 600-700 so if a tiny bit of dirt did get trapped in the o il rubbing on the stanchions it's not the end of the world.
 
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So anyone actually have big enough nuts to go riding in the snow ? I'm guessing if you have to go across any gritted surfaces it's terrible for your bike though.

I can guarantee on my bike just about every pivot would get slapped with dirty grit water
 
So anyone actually have big enough nuts to go riding in the snow ? I'm guessing if you have to go across any gritted surfaces it's terrible for your bike though.

I can guarantee on my bike just about every pivot would get slapped with dirty grit water

I've done it many times on a freeride and XC in deep and shallow snow and have been fine with bearings and the like.
Just treat it like a wet ride imo and clean accordingly.
 
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Finally bought my first decent MTB today.

Was between this Trek Marlin 7 and the Orbea Onna 20. Pretty much identical specs and Really liked the orange of the Onna but stock was limited except in the black. This I could pick up from a local store.




Got out today and the trails were rockier than I’d realised so glad I went this route rather than just sticking bigger tyres on my gravel bike as that wouldn’t cope well.

Need to work on technique though. Few times I’d be going up steep hills ok loose gravel and the back tyre was just skidding as I leant forward and had no weight on the tyre.

Also need more confidence where it got hairy on some descents. Also underestimated how slow it’d be on the road!
 
So anyone actually have big enough nuts to go riding in the snow ? I'm guessing if you have to go across any gritted surfaces it's terrible for your bike though.

I can guarantee on my bike just about every pivot would get slapped with dirty grit water

Life's too good to worry about pivots, replacing bearings takes minutes.

Go ride.
 
So anyone actually have big enough nuts to go riding in the snow ? I'm guessing if you have to go across any gritted surfaces it's terrible for your bike though.

I can guarantee on my bike just about every pivot would get slapped with dirty grit water
Went out twice last week on my winter bike (hardtail MTB)...it was DIY built and not that well in places but the slush and grit definitely took their toll on the bike (rusty chain, loose BB and even louder brakes). To be fair it probably came through the test better than I did! I share Begbies ethos but it really wasn't that much fun with numb hands and a part frozen a**! :D
 
Life's too good to worry about pivots, replacing bearings takes minutes.
My bike has the curse of a lifetime warranty on all the pivot bearings, So I'd rather not trash them and have to take it to a Whyte dealer.

Seems all the snow was short lived here anyway and the grit likely washed away
 
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My bike has the curse of a lifetime warranty on all the pivot bearings, So I'd rather not trash them and have to take it to a Whyte dealer.

Seems all the snow was short lived here anyway and the grit likely washed away

Doesn't that mean you can ride without worrying?
 
My bike has the curse of a lifetime warranty on all the pivot bearings, So I'd rather not trash them and have to take it to a Whyte dealer.

Seems all the snow was short lived here anyway and the grit likely washed away
Can't you just get Whyte to send you the replacement bearings. When I had my Santa Cruz V10 that came with lifetime bearing warranty and I used to get them posted to me to fit myself
 
Riding in snow is fun.
Seeing where you are going and knowing where the trials are is another thing.

Surprisingly good grip on fresh snow or where only bikes have been on trails.

Car parks and compacted snow with knobbly tires is a whole different ball game.
 
Well, it didn't take long. Had my first off. Picked up a little too much speed on loose rock on a downhill :(

Bike seems ok, although brake level is bent. Any tips for bending it back?

The worst thing to watch out for when bending back a lever is that you don't put too much force on and damage the lever pin and and end up with a hydralic leak. Particularly if you have SRAM levels. After doing this twice in the past I've got a technique use two pliers.... one at the lever pin end to hold that rock steady and prevent any opposite force on it and then the other plyers on the end of the lever pulling it back into shape.

You'll probably not get it back top 100% but you can get it there enough. Go easy and bend a bit at a time..... at the start you won't feel like you are getting anywhere but keep at it and hopefully you'll get your technique down.

As Fizzy says, prep yourself for replacing the lever, which will involve a bleed, if you've really smashed it beyond any reasonable bend back into place.
 
Whilst I should have guessed as OCUK has everything else covered... :D ... didn't realise there was a MTB community on OCUK.

I've been riding close to 10 years (although I reckon at least 4 of that has been off the bike injured). I live in South Wales about 20mins from the "Golden Valley" - Cwmcarn, Risca, Wylie, Machen but easy driving of loads of great spots - FOD, Afan, Mid/NorthwALES. We have a good gang that does some decent road trips - Alps/Morzine,

I've had quite a few bikes over the years but nowadays 99.999999999% of riding is the ebike. Without a doubt one of the best purchases I've ever bought (being mid 40's the knee's certainly think so anyway). I bought my Levo in 2019 and have done over 6k on it.... and should have been more if it wasn;t for some decent injuries!

Injury list from recent memory:

Left Shoulder - Full Rotator Cuff Tear (and bruised nerve) last year - 9 months off bike following surgery
Broken left Arm - 2 years ago
Snapped Thumb ligament/tendon - 3 years ago
Routine and regular head knocks, had two concussions two weeks in a row which wasn't pleasant for a while...
Endless Stitches, smashes, arm breaks prior to this etc.

You might say I'm not very good/overestimate talent..... and you might be right :p

Here's the Ride.... has been super reliable for me.


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I'm equally as harsh on the bike as the body....... I haven't really upgraded much for the sake of it, but have ended up with:

Replace Shock after damaging stock Rockshox Deluxe - Fitted DVO Topaz 3, its been a great upgrade.

Replaced Fork: Damaged Crown of Rockshox Pike - Fitted Lyrik Ultimate.

Replaced Wheels: Nearly 4 years of dings and crashes/bad landings. Fitted Hunt 38mm Wheels - these are beasts although a bit heavy.

Replaced Dropper: This one was because the Specialized Command dropper was rubbish. Fitted one-up v2 180mm dropper.
 
My best/worst injury was fractured eye socket, crushed cheek bone and teeth through my bottom lip in 2005. I'd sold my downhill frame at the time (Santa Cruz Super 8) and my new frame had been delayed so I was forced to go riding DH on my 24" Le Toy 3 hardtail. Was an awesome bike but DJ and street riding, not so much DH :cry:

Edit: Just found pictures on pinkbike. If you don't like blood dont look at the first one :p
 
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Ouch

Mine is tame to what you suffered.

Broken collar bone, couple ribs and deep cut to lower right leg, done on a Specialized Big Hit, that stopped dead when the left pedal arm hit a wooden barrier stopping cars moving onto a grass area at high speed.

Managed to strip and service my Monster T's one handed during time out :D
 
Ouch

Mine is tame to what you suffered.

Broken collar bone, couple ribs and deep cut to lower right leg, done on a Specialized Big Hit, that stopped dead when the left pedal arm hit a wooden barrier stopping cars moving onto a grass area at high speed.

Managed to strip and service my Monster T's one handed during time out :D
Still did a pretty good job!

I used to have Monster T's on my Super 8, if anybody remembers the mtb videos Superheroes I wanted to be like Randy Spangler.

Here's the Le Toy I crashed on
 
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