Mountain Biking

[Snax]

Ok so, I put my old Continentals back on (I stuck a tube in the rear) and did my usual loop at my local trail, as per this thread.

I took two minutes off my previous PR (a 10.7% improvement), and while some of that is no doubt due to my improving fitness, I could feel the reduction in rolling resistance and I believe that the majority of that time was down to the tyres.

Considering I had to overtake a bunch of people (some on the climb and some on the descent), I reckon there's more improvement to be had as well. However, there was one section where I had to back out due to a lack of grip, which was always my concern with the Continentals.

I've done a bit more research, and in terms of weight, a DHF/DHR paired with an Aggressor isn't going to make much difference compared to my MM/HD setup (although I appreciate there may be a rolling resistance improvement).

The Maxxis website suggests an Ardent Race (F) / Ikon (R) combination as one of the lightest/lowest rolling resistance combinations — only slightly lighter than a Nobby Nic (F) / Rock Razor (R), but with both of these options I worry about the lack of grip — if it's any less than my current Conti's I don't think it would be right for me, even if it was slightly faster overall.

As I said, I don't want to replace both tyres and end up with a similar setup to what I've got, nor do I want to end up with something less grippy than the Continentals. However, I know I need to replace the X-King so if there's a better alternative to the Mountain King I'd happily go for it.

Maybe a pair of Nobby Nics would be the best compromise — 1.53Kg for the pair, decent enough grip and reasonable rolling resistance… It's all so complicated!

Ikons are amazing tyres. Their grip:rolling resistence defies physics.

I ran one in BCBR as a rear with varying aggressive front tyres and that combo worked well.

Ultimate speed would be Ikon F&R with 2.35 up front and 2.2 in the rear. I quite like an aggressor or DHF up front to give me confidence on technical courses that I haven’t ridden before. I really don’t like ardent...just can’t get on with them.

The Schwalbe equivalents offer much less grip in the corners in my experience.

 

[Hedge]

I'm finding myself stuck between building a bike on a Vitus Sommet frame (on offer on crc now) or buying a Calibre Triple B.

The calibre is the cheaper option but I'm drawn to build my own bike. If anyone gets bored maybe see what you can build with parts on Crc and the Vitus Sommet frame they currently have on offer .

My build looked like Manitou Mattock Pro fork, brand x dropper, sram Eagle groupset. Hope brakes. Nukeproof handlebar.. Then I got stuck on wheel choice. By that time price was over 1600.

 

[TallPaul_S]

Just done a 52 mile ride, by far my biggest (ever?).

Nothing too technical, fire road and some tarmac, average speed of 12mph but wanted to see what I could do, 3500ft of climbing too, several short and sharp climbs. I had the backup of getting a train back at various points along the route but didn't need it. Recovery day tomorrow!!!!



Nice and dusty too!

 

[Fusion]

52 miles is a damn good effort on a bike of that type, well done! It's a good length ride on a road bike.

 

[TallPaul_S]

Cheers! To be honest at various parts along the way I was thinking I could have done with being on a 5lbs lighter hardtail with faster rolling tyres not much need for rear suspension apart from comfort reasons.

 

[Begbie]

I'm finding myself stuck between building a bike on a Vitus Sommet frame (on offer on crc now) or buying a Calibre Triple B.

The calibre is the cheaper option but I'm drawn to build my own bike. If anyone gets bored maybe see what you can build with parts on Crc and the Vitus Sommet frame they currently have on offer .

My build looked like Manitou Mattock Pro fork, brand x dropper, sram Eagle groupset. Hope brakes. Nukeproof handlebar.. Then I got stuck on wheel choice. By that time price was over 1600.

Is it not designed to run a boost fork? Not that it'll make a huge difference though.

You can get the x-fusions for a little more, which IMO are awesome. Not a huge difference between them and my pikes, got a set of both. That frame is very cheap though! Still by the time you've built it up, I'd be surprised if it was cheaper than buying a fully built bike. I attempted it with buying a second hand shan and buying parts, I ended up buying a full bike and it was cheaper with better parts.

Cheapest I could build that is £2500, not including tools required of course. Though should be less than £100 for tools. With pikes, but a proper cheap wheelset. Though still a lot of bike for the money. But then that's only £100 more then when you could buy it as a full bike, and the kit was better.

New wheelset arrived and fitted. Damn the grip difference is massive! Maybe gained a little too confidence, tried to cut my usual corner (steep and off camber if you cut it, causing a powerslide). Far too close to a tree, throwing me off the bike , I went into a rock. Hands so bruised I could barely use them for a couple of days. That DHF WT is brilliant though just so confident inspiring

 

[Hedge]

Yeah mate a boost fork would be best option but I was tinkering with keeping it cheap. To be honest I'm gonna just hold off and wait for an irresistible deal. The build I was putting together would have worked out similar to a pre built but would have had more parts I chose for cosmetics and personal touch. Like lime green race face atlas bars etc.

To be honest living in Lincolnshire is doing nothing to force my hand

 

[hardkore]

Yeah mate a boost fork would be best option but I was tinkering with keeping it cheap. To be honest I'm gonna just hold off and wait for an irresistible deal. The build I was putting together would have worked out similar to a pre built but would have had more parts I chose for cosmetics and personal touch. Like lime green race face atlas bars etc.

To be honest living in Lincolnshire is doing nothing to force my hand

Try living in norfolk!

 

[Begbie]

Yeah mate a boost fork would be best option but I was tinkering with keeping it cheap. To be honest I'm gonna just hold off and wait for an irresistible deal. The build I was putting together would have worked out similar to a pre built but would have had more parts I chose for cosmetics and personal touch. Like lime green race face atlas bars etc.

To be honest living in Lincolnshire is doing nothing to force my hand

It's always worth keeping an eye on pinkbike used bikes, some absoutle bargain 2nd hand bikes about. Some people seem to keep them a season, then sell at half their worth!

But yeah I tried to do the same before, it rarely works unless you have a dream build in mind. Or search out 2nd hand parts, await bargains etc.

 

[Slinky1989]

New
Help - I have this bike which has been converted to a single crank https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/...kes/product/review-boardman-ht-team-12-46330/

Chain has snapped and I've been told this is due to me going over jumps on a none jump bike but which makes sense but I don't want to fork out for a proper full suss until I feel like I can get abit more confident over the jumps and I believe the hard tail will be fine for now,

This sounds suspect to me, unless you land and try to crank at the same time, or your chain is ridiculously short and doesn't allow for much flex - a chain shouldn't snap when jumping - they 9 times out of 10 snap under high loads such as when climbing, changing gear under load or (as seen during many downhill races) when setting off at a sprint - there is of course though the possibility that the chain was damaged and weak before you hit the jump? Lots of variables!

So a few question, how hard is it to replace a chain on a 9 speed?

Easy enough, same as any other chain - split old one with a chain splitting tool, thread new one, rejoin new one with pin or quick release link.

Been told a chain guide will help this to stop happening again - any ideas what chain guide I will need to buy this has been converted to a single crank and the extra gear's have been cut off (As a friend told me to do this as I wouldn't need them)

A chain guide won't stop your chain snapping - it'll stop it falling off your chain ring but that's it.

Do I need to know what exactly the crank is before knowing what chain guide i need I'm guessing?

No, but as above, if stopping the chain from snapping is your goal, you don't need a chain guide (unless you do have problems with it falling off).

I run a single raceface narrow-wide chainring on a ten speed setup and have never had an issue with chains snapping/falling off.

Hope that helps, reply if you have other questions!

 

[DomBruv]

This sounds suspect to me, unless you land and try to crank at the same time, or your chain is ridiculously short and doesn't allow for much flex - a chain shouldn't snap when jumping - they 9 times out of 10 snap under high loads such as when climbing, changing gear under load or (as seen during many downhill races) when setting off at a sprint - there is of course though the possibility that the chain was damaged and weak before you hit the jump? Lots of variables!



Easy enough, same as any other chain - split old one with a chain splitting tool, thread new one, rejoin new one with pin or quick release link.



A chain guide won't stop your chain snapping - it'll stop it falling off your chain ring but that's it.



No, but as above, if stopping the chain from snapping is your goal, you don't need a chain guide (unless you do have problems with it falling off).

I run a single raceface narrow-wide chainring on a ten speed setup and have never had an issue with chains snapping/falling off.

Hope that helps, reply if you have other questions!

Cheers mate think I'm just going to buy a boss nut tbh

 

[Supercow]

Bought a new tailgate pad

Also figured out what the best way to service my Rockshox lyrik - got a 36 instead.

Build's nearly done !

 

[Begbie]

Bought a new tailgate pad


Also figured out what the best way to service my Rockshox lyrik - got a 36 instead.

Build's nearly done !

Just awaiting a coil

 

[Supercow]

Haha, it's the one call you're going to get wrong

Tried the 'coil on enduro bike' before and didn't like it. If anything, it's the X2 shock that is tempting me ... but will give the Super Deluxe a decent chance to prove me scepticism wrong. Besides, I've not ridden in 2+ years, anything's gonna feel crap

 

[DomBruv]

Got my calibre bossnut evo today, can't wait to get home and try it out

 

[DomBruv]

does anyone know any good trails near barnsley darfield? not sheffield xD

 

[Begbie]

Haha, it's the one call you're going to get wrong

Tried the 'coil on enduro bike' before and didn't like it. If anything, it's the X2 shock that is tempting me ... but will give the Super Deluxe a decent chance to prove me scepticism wrong. Besides, I've not ridden in 2+ years, anything's gonna feel crap

Allegedly it's pretty darn good.

does anyone know any good trails near barnsley darfield? not sheffield xD

Check the map view on trail forks. It's so handy for finding trails.

 

[varkanoid]

Anybody recommend a camera under £100 ? Not sure which is better helmet or handlebar. Routes I do mostly offroad gravel/dirt tracks canal pathways some fairly bumpy and few small jumps. Now I`m getting fitter wondering whether to visit my old haunts, Castleton/Mam Tor and Sutton Bank.
Been looking on the bay for Go Pro ones but not sure which to get. Plenty of cheap Chinese ones.

 

[DomBruv]

Allegedly it's pretty darn good.

Check the map view on trail forks. It's so handy for finding trails.

Already looked

 

[6thElement]

Good day out today, 33miles, 3100ft of climbing, 8250ft of descending

Topped out at 13,210ft for the high point of the ride.