Mountain Biking

DomBruv · 18 Jun 2018 at 13:32

New
Help - I have this bike which has been converted to a single crank https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/...kes/product/review-boardman-ht-team-12-46330/

Chain has snapped and I've been told this is due to me going over jumps on a none jump bike but which makes sense but I don't want to fork out for a proper full suss until I feel like I can get abit more confident over the jumps and I believe the hard tail will be fine for now,

So a few question, how hard is it to replace a chain on a 9 speed?

Been told a chain guide will help this to stop happening again - any ideas what chain guide I will need to buy this has been converted to a single crank and the extra gear's have been cut off (As a friend told me to do this as I wouldn't need them)

Do I need to know what exactly the crank is before knowing what chain guide i need I'm guessing?

Irish_Tom · 18 Jun 2018 at 13:34

PinkFloyd said:
Irish_Tom, if you are finding the MM/HD combo a bit too draggy why not put the HD on the front and try a Nobbly Nic on the back perhaps? Saves buying 2 new tyres. That's about as much advice as I can muster mind, I run the same tyre combo as you currently and find it great. Perhaps we ride on different surfaces/terrain. I went from a oem pair of NNs to the MM/HD and whilst I never timed the differences, I had far more confidence on corners and braking that I've never looked back and questioned the choice.

Yeah, there's no doubt that MM/HD is a cracking combination for maximum grip. It really has given me a lot more confidence going downhill, both on flow tracks and at more technical trails. I just noticed a few times when riding with friends that they were able to pull away from me with little effort and (as per my other thread) I'd hit a bit of a plateau when it came to my PR times at my local trail. NN on the back with the HD up front may well be a decent compromise — I've seen that combination recommended elsewhere, but the HD is pretty heavy and might be a bit overkill for the summer months on the trails I'm riding.

Fusion said:
Where do you have grip issues- front, rear or both? Could always put a Mountain King on the rear too. What are your pressures, can you run them lower (especially on the front)? Shouldn't have too many issues with those tyres in 2.4" format.

On Sunday there were two moments when I had to back out — one was cornering on quite a narrow off-camber trail, and I just couldn't steer in the way I normally would with the MM/HD. Although I may have got my weighting wrong, I feel like this was a bit of both front and rear not digging in. On the other section, I lost the rear, which was always my issue with the X-King before.

In terms of pressure, I normally run about 22psi front, 25psi rear, although as I had to stick a tube in on Sunday for the X-King, I was running that a bit higher around 33psi.

Although the difference in weight is minimal, a pair of Nobby Nics should provide better grip with lower rolling resistance (according to bicyclerollingresistance.com) compared to the Mountain King / X-King combo.

toprock · 18 Jun 2018 at 14:50

NobbyNic front and rear, go for the new Addix speedgrip compound, lighter and grippier, and harder wearing. EVO for their best tyre in their lineup, and also snakeskin walls for rock protection. I run 2.35 front, 2.25 back, can be had for 40 euros a tyre from Germany, with 6 euro delivery. Between 600-700g a tyre depending on wheel size.

I've not come across a lighter XC/trail/big ride out tyre, that goes tubeless beautifully, yet offers incredible grip.

toprock · 18 Jun 2018 at 15:00

PS typed all that before I seen you were considering the double NN lol

Also find them great on all surfaces, whether i'm doing loads of roads joining up trails in the hills, wet/dry, 35psi fast paced nightrides, or 25psi techy stuff.

Run the same combo on my 150mm 26" trail bike, and 120mm 27.5" XC bike.

Irish_Tom · 18 Jun 2018 at 22:22

toprock said:
PS typed all that before I seen you were considering the double NN lol

Also, find them great on all surfaces, whether I'm doing loads of roads joining up trails in the hills, wet/dry, 35psi fast-paced night rides, or 25psi techy stuff.

Run the same combo on my 150mm 26" trail bike, and 120mm 27.5" XC bike.

Thanks toprock, definitely adds weight to some of the other research I've been doing… food for thought.

Snax · 19 Jun 2018 at 08:47

Irish_Tom said:
Ok so, I put my old Continentals back on (I stuck a tube in the rear) and did my usual loop at my local trail, as per this thread.

I took two minutes off my previous PR (a 10.7% improvement), and while some of that is no doubt due to my improving fitness, I could feel the reduction in rolling resistance and I believe that the majority of that time was down to the tyres.

Considering I had to overtake a bunch of people (some on the climb and some on the descent), I reckon there's more improvement to be had as well. However, there was one section where I had to back out due to a lack of grip, which was always my concern with the Continentals.

I've done a bit more research, and in terms of weight, a DHF/DHR paired with an Aggressor isn't going to make much difference compared to my MM/HD setup (although I appreciate there may be a rolling resistance improvement).

The Maxxis website suggests an Ardent Race (F) / Ikon (R) combination as one of the lightest/lowest rolling resistance combinations — only slightly lighter than a Nobby Nic (F) / Rock Razor (R), but with both of these options I worry about the lack of grip — if it's any less than my current Conti's I don't think it would be right for me, even if it was slightly faster overall.

As I said, I don't want to replace both tyres and end up with a similar setup to what I've got, nor do I want to end up with something less grippy than the Continentals. However, I know I need to replace the X-King so if there's a better alternative to the Mountain King I'd happily go for it.

Maybe a pair of Nobby Nics would be the best compromise — 1.53Kg for the pair, decent enough grip and reasonable rolling resistance… It's all so complicated!

Ikons are amazing tyres. Their grip:rolling resistence defies physics.

I ran one in BCBR as a rear with varying aggressive front tyres and that combo worked well.

Ultimate speed would be Ikon F&R with 2.35 up front and 2.2 in the rear. I quite like an aggressor or DHF up front to give me confidence on technical courses that I haven’t ridden before. I really don’t like ardent...just can’t get on with them.

The Schwalbe equivalents offer much less grip in the corners in my experience.

Hedge · 22 Jun 2018 at 07:10

I'm finding myself stuck between building a bike on a Vitus Sommet frame (on offer on crc now) or buying a Calibre Triple B.

The calibre is the cheaper option but I'm drawn to build my own bike. If anyone gets bored maybe see what you can build with parts on Crc and the Vitus Sommet frame they currently have on offer

.

My build looked like Manitou Mattock Pro fork, brand x dropper, sram Eagle groupset. Hope brakes. Nukeproof handlebar.. Then I got stuck on wheel choice. By that time price was over 1600.

TallPaul_S · 23 Jun 2018 at 19:01

Just done a 52 mile ride, by far my biggest (ever?).

Nothing too technical, fire road and some tarmac, average speed of 12mph but wanted to see what I could do, 3500ft of climbing too, several short and sharp climbs. I had the backup of getting a train back at various points along the route but didn't need it. Recovery day tomorrow!!!!

Nice and dusty too!

Fusion · 24 Jun 2018 at 20:32

52 miles is a damn good effort on a bike of that type, well done! It's a good length ride on a road bike.

TallPaul_S · 24 Jun 2018 at 20:54

Cheers! To be honest at various parts along the way I was thinking I could have done with being on a 5lbs lighter hardtail with faster rolling tyres

not much need for rear suspension apart from comfort reasons.

Begbie · 26 Jun 2018 at 10:17

Hedge said:
I'm finding myself stuck between building a bike on a Vitus Sommet frame (on offer on crc now) or buying a Calibre Triple B.

The calibre is the cheaper option but I'm drawn to build my own bike. If anyone gets bored maybe see what you can build with parts on Crc and the Vitus Sommet frame they currently have on offer .

My build looked like Manitou Mattock Pro fork, brand x dropper, sram Eagle groupset. Hope brakes. Nukeproof handlebar.. Then I got stuck on wheel choice. By that time price was over 1600.

Is it not designed to run a boost fork? Not that it'll make a huge difference though.

You can get the x-fusions for a little more, which IMO are awesome. Not a huge difference between them and my pikes, got a set of both. That frame is very cheap though! Still by the time you've built it up, I'd be surprised if it was cheaper than buying a fully built bike. I attempted it with buying a second hand shan and buying parts, I ended up buying a full bike and it was cheaper with better parts.

Cheapest I could build that is £2500, not including tools required of course. Though should be less than £100 for tools. With pikes, but a proper cheap wheelset. Though still a lot of bike for the money. But then that's only £100 more then when you could buy it as a full bike, and the kit was better.

New wheelset arrived and fitted. Damn the grip difference is massive! Maybe gained a little too confidence, tried to cut my usual corner (steep and off camber if you cut it, causing a powerslide). Far too close to a tree, throwing me off the bike , I went into a rock. Hands so bruised I could barely use them for a couple of days. That DHF WT is brilliant though just so confident inspiring

Hedge · 26 Jun 2018 at 21:15

Yeah mate a boost fork would be best option but I was tinkering with keeping it cheap. To be honest I'm gonna just hold off and wait for an irresistible deal. The build I was putting together would have worked out similar to a pre built but would have had more parts I chose for cosmetics and personal touch. Like lime green race face atlas bars etc.

To be honest living in Lincolnshire is doing nothing to force my hand

hardkore · 26 Jun 2018 at 21:30

Hedge said:
Yeah mate a boost fork would be best option but I was tinkering with keeping it cheap. To be honest I'm gonna just hold off and wait for an irresistible deal. The build I was putting together would have worked out similar to a pre built but would have had more parts I chose for cosmetics and personal touch. Like lime green race face atlas bars etc.

To be honest living in Lincolnshire is doing nothing to force my hand

Try living in norfolk!

Begbie · 26 Jun 2018 at 23:02

Hedge said:
Yeah mate a boost fork would be best option but I was tinkering with keeping it cheap. To be honest I'm gonna just hold off and wait for an irresistible deal. The build I was putting together would have worked out similar to a pre built but would have had more parts I chose for cosmetics and personal touch. Like lime green race face atlas bars etc.

To be honest living in Lincolnshire is doing nothing to force my hand

It's always worth keeping an eye on pinkbike used bikes, some absoutle bargain 2nd hand bikes about. Some people seem to keep them a season, then sell at half their worth!

But yeah I tried to do the same before, it rarely works unless you have a dream build in mind. Or search out 2nd hand parts, await bargains etc.

Slinky1989 · 27 Jun 2018 at 22:05

DomBruv said:
New
Help - I have this bike which has been converted to a single crank https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/...kes/product/review-boardman-ht-team-12-46330/

Chain has snapped and I've been told this is due to me going over jumps on a none jump bike but which makes sense but I don't want to fork out for a proper full suss until I feel like I can get abit more confident over the jumps and I believe the hard tail will be fine for now,

This sounds suspect to me, unless you land and try to crank at the same time, or your chain is ridiculously short and doesn't allow for much flex - a chain shouldn't snap when jumping - they 9 times out of 10 snap under high loads such as when climbing, changing gear under load or (as seen during many downhill races) when setting off at a sprint - there is of course though the possibility that the chain was damaged and weak before you hit the jump? Lots of variables!

DomBruv said:
So a few question, how hard is it to replace a chain on a 9 speed?

Easy enough, same as any other chain - split old one with a chain splitting tool, thread new one, rejoin new one with pin or quick release link.

DomBruv said:
Been told a chain guide will help this to stop happening again - any ideas what chain guide I will need to buy this has been converted to a single crank and the extra gear's have been cut off (As a friend told me to do this as I wouldn't need them)

A chain guide won't stop your chain snapping - it'll stop it falling off your chain ring but that's it.

DomBruv said:
Do I need to know what exactly the crank is before knowing what chain guide i need I'm guessing?

No, but as above, if stopping the chain from snapping is your goal, you don't need a chain guide (unless you do have problems with it falling off).

I run a single raceface narrow-wide chainring on a ten speed setup and have never had an issue with chains snapping/falling off.

Hope that helps, reply if you have other questions!

DomBruv · 28 Jun 2018 at 09:04

Slinky1989 said:
This sounds suspect to me, unless you land and try to crank at the same time, or your chain is ridiculously short and doesn't allow for much flex - a chain shouldn't snap when jumping - they 9 times out of 10 snap under high loads such as when climbing, changing gear under load or (as seen during many downhill races) when setting off at a sprint - there is of course though the possibility that the chain was damaged and weak before you hit the jump? Lots of variables!

Easy enough, same as any other chain - split old one with a chain splitting tool, thread new one, rejoin new one with pin or quick release link.

A chain guide won't stop your chain snapping - it'll stop it falling off your chain ring but that's it.

No, but as above, if stopping the chain from snapping is your goal, you don't need a chain guide (unless you do have problems with it falling off).

I run a single raceface narrow-wide chainring on a ten speed setup and have never had an issue with chains snapping/falling off.

Hope that helps, reply if you have other questions!

Cheers mate think I'm just going to buy a boss nut tbh

Supercow · 2 Jul 2018 at 10:55

Bought a new tailgate pad

Also figured out what the best way to service my Rockshox lyrik - got a 36 instead.

Build's nearly done !

Begbie · 2 Jul 2018 at 16:13

Supercow said:
Bought a new tailgate pad

Also figured out what the best way to service my Rockshox lyrik - got a 36 instead.

Build's nearly done !

Just awaiting a coil

Supercow · 3 Jul 2018 at 00:23

Haha, it's the one call you're going to get wrong

Tried the 'coil on enduro bike' before and didn't like it. If anything, it's the X2 shock that is tempting me ... but will give the Super Deluxe a decent chance to prove me scepticism wrong. Besides, I've not ridden in 2+ years, anything's gonna feel crap

DomBruv · 3 Jul 2018 at 14:44

Got my calibre bossnut evo today, can't wait to get home and try it out