Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

DJMK4 said:
Cheers for the tip :)

Iv downloaded drivers and assistant software for my naza v2, guess there isnt much I can do with this until the battery and balance charger is here, when it does arrive shall I just ensure everything is connected, power on and install the naza software, and then connect it with my radio?

Wondering what I can do today, maybe get the landing legs on, get some servo cables in ready, cant really programme anything yet
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from distant memory these are steps you will need to take at some point.

cal sticks on taranis and all other analog controls
power everything up props off
update naza firmware if it needs it
bind Taranis to X8R in 16Ch mode (you have to put two jumpers on X8R, this gives you 8 channels SBUS and 8 traditional)
set naza assistant to right quad configuration and to use SBUS
cal IMU in naza assistant
cal sticks in naza assistant
spin up motors with taranis to check they spin right direction
then start sorting out flight mode switch and IOC switch with taranis, maybe a failsafe switch (everything should show in naza software as you do it)
make sure when you turn off taranis mode goes to failsafe in naza (if not you will need to set failsafe settings on the X8R, I did this as I wanted to set certain parameters like lights on etc)

before maiden flight do the compass cal dance with 450 (always do this when you get to new fly site) and don't take off in gps mode unless you have full sat lock all green...if you cannot get it take off in atti and get higher / clear of obstacles, wait for sat lock then engage gps mode.

the above may be wrong as not done it for ages, but that's roughly all the steps you will need to make should be tons on google / youtube


edit: just to add to this, there will be tweaking to do in voltage limits section of naza assistant, DJI set very conservative levels and kills flight time. When I first built 550 I got 3mins flight time, after tweaks she flew till around 12mins on single batt. Once you have FPV setup with OSD or use telemetry you can turn it off all together.
 
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Nice post :) thanks for that, I might cal sticks on the taranis tonight seeing as I dont really need to be attached to anything


Im jotting down a lot of what im doing so I can easily refer back to it, there is quite a bit to sort out,lol

Thanks though :)

By the way if you hold your taranis up to your ear can you hear a slight radio interference type sound? its very very faint
 
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DJMK4 said:
By the way if you hold your taranis up to your ear can you hear a slight radio interference type sound? its very very faint
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Yeah I get that too, mainly if the antenna is parallel with the body of the transmitter, when I stick the antenna up it tends to reduce it quite a lot.
Never caused any issues though :)
 
Need help with my qav250.

I've got a naze32 set up and I don't know how to correct the trim's properly.

I've used baseflight to correctly set the end points, but when I go to fly I have to trim on the rx quite a lot to stop it turning left and strafing to the left. Now after I've trimmed it, it's fine, but I've lost some responsiveness and it flies better in clockwise circuits because of it.

What do I do to go about calibrating it perfectly, if you even can, or simply, can I set it up perfect so I don't have to trim as much.

edit: using a dx6i if it helps
 
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Hutchy said:
Need help with my qav250.

I've got a naze32 set up and I don't know how to correct the trim's properly.

I've used baseflight to correctly set the end points, but when I go to fly I have to trim on the rx quite a lot to stop it turning left and strafing to the left. Now after I've trimmed it, it's fine, but I've lost some responsiveness and it flies better in clockwise circuits because of it.

What do I do to go about calibrating it perfectly, if you even can, or simply, can I set it up perfect so I don't have to trim as much.

edit: using a dx6i if it helps
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In Baseflight, do all the rx channels sit on 1500 in the middle and go from 1000-2000?

Done the accelerometer calibration on a level surface?

ESC's calibrated?

Checked center of mavity so the quad is balanced around all axis?

If all the above is true and it won't hold a hover in acro mode without yawing left or tipping left then you can trim the tilt out by landing, disarm, throttle to max then use the right stick to add "clicks" of trim. So in your case moving the stick to the right a few times should balance it out. Fly, see if it's better, land rinse and repeat the above.

Yaw is something else and can't be trimmed. It's normally because a motor isn't level, the FC isn't straight/level or is getting too much vibration (you can check this in the motor test panel by running up each motor with props off and watching the graph) or a motor is weak/out of sync. A quad yaws by varying the amount of power to the motors on opposite corners so the natural torque of the motors and props causes it to rotate. If the motors are near max throttle, it can also induce unwanted yaw problems as they run out of headroom. They shouldn't be though, unless something is wrong somewhere.

How badly is it yawing?
 
I spent a long time almost buying that kit but decided against it. The frame is cheap but not that tough, the motors are a bit poo, the 3 blade props are not as good as their 2 blade counter parts, the battery is too small and both it and the power breakout cable use a rare plug that you would soon move away from.

Basically it's a dead end in terms of upgrades and development before you have even started. Your better of building a budget kit from parts you spec yourself.
 
yeah I looked at same one and almost hit buy... like Skeeter said it's kinda a dead end of below average parts.

Saying that I specced up my perfect 250 build and all in it was coming on £300 (that's without radio tx and fpv goggles as I already have them).. it's does certainly add up fast
 
Okay, thing is I've no idea how to spec up motors and power draw etc. I'm looking at a £150 budget for everything.
 
I managed to build a quad for under £200.

For a 250 you want 10A or 12A ESC's, small motors like the DYS 1806's, 5x3 2 blade props, 3S batteries with a more common connector like Deans or XT60, a power breakout cable or if you have some soldering skills a power distribution board, a cheap frame (one of the Chinese 'carbon' ones for £20 is fine), a control board like the KK2.1.5 or Acro Naze and then a transmitter/receiver combo of which there are plenty of cheap starter ones.

There were some decent kits about when I started, I'll see what I can find. How do you feel about ordering from Hong Kong?
 
This is a good setup, but you still have the cost of battery, rx and tx plus soldering iron etc if you don't have one.

fpaz4l.jpg



I have a spare quadcopter with pretty much the same parts as that HK FPV250 kit that I fly when if I crash my FPV ZMR250. They're not bad for the price but you will want to upgrade parts in no time.
 
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If from HongKong you mean Hobbyking then I'd be fine with it. I've ordered plenty of stuff for airsoft from HK before and never been got by import tax.

Does the above kit include all of the wires needed to put it together? I have solder and a soldering iron but I'd prefer to order it all in one bundle.
 
All you would need to add to Ashs list above would be some wire and a plug to connect to a battery, a transmitter and reciever and some servo cables, and batteries and a charger.

It would be worth looking at Hobbyking. When I bought mine I was hit for 20% tax and aa fee and still spent less than if I had bought it all from the UK.
 
gandhi said:
In Baseflight, do all the rx channels sit on 1500 in the middle and go from 1000-2000?

Done the accelerometer calibration on a level surface?

ESC's calibrated?

Checked center of mavity so the quad is balanced around all axis?

If all the above is true and it won't hold a hover in acro mode without yawing left or tipping left then you can trim the tilt out by landing, disarm, throttle to max then use the right stick to add "clicks" of trim. So in your case moving the stick to the right a few times should balance it out. Fly, see if it's better, land rinse and repeat the above.

Yaw is something else and can't be trimmed. It's normally because a motor isn't level, the FC isn't straight/level or is getting too much vibration (you can check this in the motor test panel by running up each motor with props off and watching the graph) or a motor is weak/out of sync. A quad yaws by varying the amount of power to the motors on opposite corners so the natural torque of the motors and props causes it to rotate. If the motors are near max throttle, it can also induce unwanted yaw problems as they run out of headroom. They shouldn't be though, unless something is wrong somewhere.

How badly is it yawing?
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It's fine once trimmed, just annoying because that trim changes the end points if that makes sense. Didn't know you could trim it in disarm mode like that so I'll try that instead.

Cheers!
 
Flukester said:
I weighed it yesterday, 2.85KG OUCH!!!. I like a heavy bird though ;)

That's with two 5000mah 3S, gimbal, gopro, FPV gear, Flytrex. I know that's overweight but she actually flys ok. In strong wind though I drop to a single battery or the motors have way too much work to do.

The AeroXcraft is quite light, but I like the fact that it allows you to mount the gopro fairly clear of props and then counter weight with battery on other end. My second battery then sits on top if I need to do a long flight.
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Interesting - thanks for the reply. I run 8400mAh 3S but with two it's just too heavy - I do have a single 5000mAh 3S that I started out with however.

Am tempted to order the extended aluminium arms that they offer even if they are a little expensive as I'd quite like to get better flight times with my H3-3D + Hero 4 and FPV setup on-board.

Would just need to work out which motors to get and which props! Any tips?
 
How long can you guys with the big craft stay in the air? There was a guy on a Flite Test video a while back who said he had a tri with massive props and slow rotating motors and with dual batteries was getting up to 40 minutes!
 
TheOtherOption said:
Interesting - thanks for the reply. I run 8400mAh 3S but with two it's just too heavy - I do have a single 5000mAh 3S that I started out with however.

Am tempted to order the extended aluminium arms that they offer even if they are a little expensive as I'd quite like to get better flight times with my H3-3D + Hero 4 and FPV setup on-board.

Would just need to work out which motors to get and which props! Any tips?
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What flight times do you get ?, with two 5000mah I get around 17mins which is plenty as my puny brain cannot cope with the stress of longer.

I have turned off voltage limits in Naza and monitor voltage on OSD.
 
Not sure if this is any good, but Hobbyking are doing a 30% discount on Turnigy batteries for 2 days.

Hi, for 2 days only * we're offering over 30% off on some of our Turnigy 2200mah 3S packs from our UK warehouse!
2200mah 3S packs are the go-to pack for countless applications. With huge discounts being offered, you don't want to miss out!

* Promotion will run till 12pm HKT on the 29th of January 2015 or while stocks last.
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Link
 
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