Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

Ah right, 15 inch it is then!

Lift required is just a function of AUW/#Motors so if the S1000 weighs 4.2Kg dry...

(4.2+10)/8 = 1.85kg per motor needed to get the rig off the ground.

Really, you need this to be as close to 50% of total power as possible, a little over or under won't hurt. If that's all that's available at 100% throttle, it will take off (just) but manoeuvring would be out of the question as there wouldn't be enough headroom for the motors to spin faster when needed.

These would get you nearer the target with 2kg of thrust per motor at 65% throttle.
 
Thanks ghandi, that helps. With those motors:

xSDXwLK.png
 
Yeah, if we can. We have a Ronin and people are constantly requesting things to be shot on Red, so rather than spunking a load on another gimbal it would make sense if possible.

And yeah, that makes sense. I see you're registered, would you mind just popping in the correct battery (12000mAh 30/50) just to be most accurate? Don't worry if not, won't make much difference from what I've seen from switching between a couple.
 
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How do you find the Ronin? We're just about to purchase one I think. Probably for usage with a GH4 but not on a multi. Not yet anyway. Too expensive/restricted for a lot of our clients.
 
I say have, it was due to be delivered today but looks like it'll be tomorrow now as the courier had the wrong address (great). But yes, already bought anyway. One of our freelancers has one and he gives it some pretty good reviews. He uses a FS700 with it. The majority of our work is ground based so that's what it was bought for.

I'm pretty sure I've asked before but what do you do again? Seeing as we seem relatively similar and you're just in Bath.
 
Russinating said:
I say have, it was due to be delivered today but looks like it'll be tomorrow now as the courier had the wrong address (great). But yes, already bought anyway. One of our freelancers has one and he gives it some pretty good reviews. He uses a FS700 with it. The majority of our work is ground based so that's what it was bought for.

I'm pretty sure I've asked before but what do you do again? Seeing as we seem relatively similar and you're just in Bath.
Click to expand...

Mostly stuff for posh estate agents. Photography, brochures etc. They're slowly learning that video is a good thing and we're constantly trying to nudge them in that direction. We do some branding stuff for them and their clients too.
 
Cool, we're kind of the opposite. Mostly do film and try to nudge clients to use us for photography as well and then everything else that follows on from that (design/print/social media etc).
 
Still can't get a damn xt60 on this lipo,


Just managed to do negative, but I don't know how secure or in place this is,worst solder joint ever, can't even get heat shrink round it, it's going to have to come off,damm it

I cant keep trimming lipo cable back
 
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The way I do it is to tin the cable then when fitting it into the XT60 kind of hook it under the cutaway portion of the connector at an angle and then rotate and push it into the connector. A bit like this crappy pic I just made shows...
GCnA1BM.png


It doesn't always work but it's the best method I've found and when it works means the strands don't hit the cutaway edge and splay out.

They can be a pain to solder though!
 
DJMK4 said:
Still can't get a damn xt60 on this lipo,


Just managed to do negative, but I don't know how secure or in place this is,worst solder joint ever, can't even get heat shrink round it, it's going to have to come off,damm it

I cant keep trimming lipo cable back
Click to expand...

it is hard but agree with the "paint" picture below - get some solder in the "cup" of the connector first. The introduce the wires, it's hard and my job is not great but it works and that's all that matters!
 
Best I could do on one minus the heatshrink

xt60.jpg



Second on on,hopefully this should be OK, paranoid even though the shrinkwrap is on at some point wires could touch


xt602.jpg


xt603.jpg




Powered on, just seeing if I can update the software and bind, followed all the instructions so far, but I launch the Naza software, it asks me to upgrade through the Naza assistant software, go to info, and software version at 2.20, go to upgrade and its asking me to connect to controller, which it is
 
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I'm sure that will be fine ....where the solder isn't shiny and not smooth is classic lack of heat. What iron you use ?

I use a cheap station... But for xt60s heat gets turned to max (450c) as the wire and xt60 sink so much heat away

Everything must reach same temp to get solder to flow or it will go blobby and dull in appearance
 
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Flukester said:
I'm sure that will be fine ....where the solder isn't shiny and not smooth is classic lack of heat. What iron you use ?

I use a cheap station... But for xt60s heat gets turned to max (450c) as the wire and xt60 sink so much heat away

Everything must reach same temp to get solder to flow or it will go blobby and dull in appearance
Click to expand...


The iron I use is actually not bad, iv had no real issues up until now soldering this on but that was to do with the bucket type things on the XT60 and the wire, I could have let it heat up more but I just wanted to get it in and soldered.


Its powering fine, just having fun trying to get Naza to play ball now :rolleyes:, wonder if this is Windows 8 :p


EDIT: its connecting now to update
 
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When soldering XT60s, I like to plug the opposite connector into the one I's soldering (not a battery!) - it keeps the pins in place when the nylon heats up, as they can shift a bit. Heat the contact (with a dab of solder on the iron) and give the contact a good lashing of lovely flowing solder. Tinned wires are then easy to sweat on, even with a low powered iron, giving great contact.

Really having fun with micros at the moment, haven't touched my 250 since November :o Counting the days until it's not cold, windy and dark all the blooming time :(
 
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