Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

Latest voice pack here... http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28161759&postcount=1

This is quick copy and paste. I'll try and do a video

ok you have you taranis handy?

ok what switch is the gps atti on?

SE

ok switch it on and make sure you model is selected

page down to screen 11/12 special functions

is it all clear? Nothing in sf1?

ok move over to sf1
press ent


then press again and cursor will flash in first colum, move your se switch

and will see se with up arrow - line or down arrow when you move it

what function is your top position? arrow up

GPS

okmove switch so arrow up
press ent
stops flashing

press -
moves to right once

press ent and will start flashing

use + or - to get it to say play track
when there press ent
then - to move to next coloum

play track
when "play track there press ent

press ent and it should stop flashing and say "play track"

not say as in speak it, just say it on screen

ok press -
moves to right
press ent and a long list cones up

use - till gps comes up
its a long way down
gps or gpsmd
when there press ent

the 1x at end means rpeat once
repeat
press extt
and exit again
on move se to middle
then back and it should say gps

you understand ok? for middle switch it will be sa- and for bottom position will be se (arrow down)

ok just do the same with sf2 but put atti in as the play track
and set switch to se-
for middle
them set sf3 to play Manual with switch se down arrow
easy
think you can copy them and paste to make it faster
Click to expand...
 
Cool thanks I will have a play around with that.

:)


Would be cool to get them set-up.


On these 250 builds are people going for the vertical or horizontal pins with the Naze32 soldering? Thinking horizontal might loose some space, but will look neater, vertical will look a little more wire to see visually, but will save a little of the space


BTW this is what I mean with the ESCs on the arms, didnt want to get in to this scenario, short wires, and still excess wire everywhere now, also not going to be able to mount legs

250update9.jpg



Only way I can see it happening is if I put them on the back, and somehow solder the cables like that! Not the most ideal way of doing this, possibly bending soldering joints, not good!

Also lose a mounting hole for a leg.

250update10.jpg
 
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DJMK4 said:
Cool thanks I will have a play around with that.

:)


Would be cool to get them set-up.


On these 250 builds are people going for the vertical or horizontal pins with the Naze32 soldering? Thinking horizontal might loose some space, but will look neater, vertical will look a little more wire to see visually, but will save a little of the space
Click to expand...

I just the back ground music tweak as well, I've only done 1 track so far but it's working and be fun to try when flying
 
DJMK4 said:
Cool thanks I will have a play around with that.

:)


Would be cool to get them set-up.


On these 250 builds are people going for the vertical or horizontal pins with the Naze32 soldering? Thinking horizontal might loose some space, but will look neater, vertical will look a little more wire to see visually, but will save a little of the space


BTW this is what I mean with the ESCs on the arms, didnt want to get in to this scenario, short wires, and still excess wire everywhere now, also not going to be able to mount legs
Click to expand...

I have a genuine luminier QAV so i have a pdb where the esc are mounted under my frames belly, I still have all of my motor wire but I have none of my power cables on my esc and very little of the motor wires that are on my esc.
Mount them on top of the arms, it is pretty much the standerd practice for this type of frame, you can leave some cable and loop it on top of the ecs and use a couple of cable ties to hold it all on.
If you leave the slack you will be able to move them to fit the legs and if it really bothers you tuck the wire underneath the esc to keep it neat
 
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Lol sounds good lisapete :) will check it out



Iv pretty much naffed up one of my servos now, not enough space to solder, and have a few mm of wire! Wish I had kept it in the body

Not enough cable to wrap around the esc if it put it on the top, and to get it so there is no excess wire if I mount it on the top means more cutting

Pretty much at the minimum, im not cutting anymore off, cant heatshrink it either as it just shrinks as im soldering


Im just going to mount them half on the arms half in the frame.
 
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Yep, one of my motors is now useless, and pretty sure one ESC is knackered with no wire left

Pretty sure im going to go with the centre mounting, and will have to order a new motors
 
Iv managed to salvage one of the ESCS (Just, there is a tiny tiny bit of wire left on it.

One of the motors is a goner though, managed to pull one of the wires out the motor completely, so only has two wires.

Cant open the thing up, so I assume its no good?

This is the best I can do on the arm I am afraid, I will have to just put up with loosing one of the holes for a leg, and hope that I can use the hole by the motor for a leg, and have a bit of cable showing.


250update11.jpg



Whats annoying is im probably going to have to undo all this once the motors spin the wrong way
 
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Lisapete said:
Och. No clip holding the motor together?
Click to expand...

What you mean to get inside and try and fix it? no idea, will have a look but I doubt its repairable


This is the best i could do on the ESC front, it worked without snipping off too much wire, its not fully on the arm, some on the frame, but i allows access for USB to the FC.

I just think it kind of spoils the look of it slightly

250update13.jpg
 
DJMK4 said:
BTW this is what I mean with the ESCs on the arms, didnt want to get in to this scenario, short wires, and still excess wire everywhere now, also not going to be able to mount legs

250update9.jpg
Click to expand...

Take the heat shrink off the ESC and de-solder the wires and remove them, solder the motor wires directly to the ESC measure and cut to the required length, just remember to apply new heat shrink. Simple.
 
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