Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

I wont get it the wrong way :p will triple check

I don't have the USB convertor to update the firmware damn it :( I can still programme 4 channels in today though?

I'll have to order more stuff

Ah ok thanks K guess its just test to see if a 5th channel works then


Not read about PID tuning yet
 
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You may be OK as Kanifee says. It's worth getting one of the USB programmers anyway though if you move to larger craft and more complicated telemetry. I have to flash my S-Port sensors regularly when they release updates.
 
I was fortunate, I have a D8R-II on my mini quad and flashed it with X8R-II firmware to enable 27ms PPM mode, I have a serial port on the back of my pc and it wired directly in to that and worked fine.

As far as PID tuning goes, the beauty of the naze is it flies great out of the box. You shouldn't need to worry about PID tuning for a little while yet. I don't fully understand the mechanics of it but I do have basic understanding so I need to start looking in to it more, as you become familiar with the craft, the way it flies and any flaws/instability you feel as you push it further you will start to want to 'dial it in' and then you start to get in to the PID's. My suggestion is unless you have any glaring problems like bad oscillations get flying and get to know her first.

PID's an change form windy to calm weather, extra weight on the quad. Not worth the headache to mess on with when you first want to learn to fly IMHO.
 
booyaka said:
All that above seems very complicated!!! KK board - fire up and fly. lol
Click to expand...


From what I understand is that it is pretty easy to set-up, however you have some good tuning features if you want to play around more, which keeps you tweaking I guess

I picked it as its the reccomended board for these 250 racing quads

The software is a chrome based app called baseflight which at first glance looks quite intuative, but want to read to ensure im setting up ok, it has your tabbed view, with all the settings, and an additional CLI input page.



Damn hobbyking, they really need to get some decent stock volumes in the UK. Even the simplest of things

wonder if B&Q sell those Nylon M3 screws, I only got 5 in a pack, stupidly paid £2.50, which are used for underneath the quad, I need a few more for screwing the Naze down inside the quad in to the standoffs

May walk over there in a bit and see what they have
 
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Morning all!

The D4rII will do 8 channels over cppm regardless of the firmware, as long as channels 3&4 have a jumper on them.

All the FW update does is address the communication speed of the rx. On the older firmware, if all 8 channels were on max, the rx couldn't keep up with it so there were some funny shenanigans going on.

You only really need to flash it if you envisage using all 8 channels and them all being at 2000ms+ at some point (technically impossible on a quad I think?)
 
Naze32 is generally regarded as quite a superior product, excellent out of the box, highly configurable/tuneable and can be added to in features with some very nifty things like one shot esc's and led arrays with advanced light configs. With the addition of clean flight pots and sliders can have there range set to multiple functions giving you immense functionality from your tx if needed.


Hobbyrc.co.uk carry all the nylon bolts, nuts and stand offs in stock most times. I always carry spares.
 
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Its ok found a local website rcworld.co.uk about 10 mins from me. Lady setup a business online and went to her shed/office/stock room

Got 10 nylon m3 screws 20mm to be cut down.

11p each :)
 
Trying to find someone selling a Turnigy Nano-tech 1500mah 3S 35C battery with a decent price is prooving difficult

Hobbyking out of stock (surprise) but they sell them around £10, not many on the bay

One I found for £16 ex postage but there out of stock too

seems like no one has them


Found this for £14.99

Turnigy nano-tech 1500mah 3S 25-50C Lipo Battery Pack

Is this any good?
 
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Hmm. The math. Amp hour x discharge rate = maximum amp out put.

So 1.5x25=37.5a. You have 4x12a esc so theoretically can pull 48a total within normal working load of the electronics. Really it will probably be fine as with your 5x3 props you are around 8a per motor so 32a. I wouldn't take the chance though.

I use the 1300mah 45-90c, gives me a discharge of 58a. I also have a 1400mah multistar 35-70c giving 49a for my tri.

Check hobbyrc.co.uk. You should find nanotechnology stock there.
 
I just want to try and gauge flying time, I don't really understand a lot on batteries charge/discharge weight

Hobbyrc are out of stock also on 1500 35c
 
You aren't going to gain much going from 1300 to 1500mah. The increase in capacity is off set by weight. Usually flying times average between 6 and 8 minutes and up to 10 with no fpv gear. That was my experience on a 1300mah nanotech
 
6-8 minutes with FPV? is there anyway of stretching this? apart from swapping batteries of course

I was hoping to get 10-12+ with FPV, and around 12-15 without, but its not a massive issue I guess.


here is some updates, soldered my ESCS and motor wires with them underneath, although not really happy about the fact that some of them have wire extensions, I think I may buy a few ESCS in the future and swap them out. Also keep the wires at not so short lengths.


Happy and it looks better this way

250update16.jpg


250update17.jpg


250update18.jpg
 
It's quite hard to get extended flight times on these little things. Even clonking on a 2200mah isn't going to make a huge difference, yes times will increase but not as much as you think and your quad will feel heavy and sloppy in the air. Over 6 minutes of decently aggressive flying with lots of throttle and you are doing well.

After all with these little quads it's more fun to fly them hard.


Quick question. Have you used any loctite?
 
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Fair enough I think I will go for the 1300 then, and maybe when the 1500 becomes available get that one as a spare.


Not loctite, what on?


Want to do some testing with my TX but my housemate is complaining that its interfering with the wifi :D which is true as it stops my laptop browsing


Bit worried that one of my ESCS is seems to get a little warm, and the other three dont really get warm (this is with nothing spinning)

I have already checked this over, as I checked the wiring when I went to perm solder them, it was happening when they were not soldered and I was testing motors
 
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Loctite on any metal bolt you can. These things rattle themselves to bits if you let them. On the motors and the frame.
 
Kanifee said:
Loctite on any metal bolt you can. These things rattle themselves to bits if you let them. On the motors and the frame.
Click to expand...


The only ones there are are the motor hex bolts, but you cant really loctite those as they are behind the leg, so not accessable, not really a good idea putting loctite in to the motor threads surely?

I can do the leg bolts and nuts, and the ones going in to the standoffs are screws, all others are nylon standoffs and screws
 
Loctite in to the motors, if you put on enough to leak in to the motor you have put on too much. are all the frame bolts for the red standoffs nylon? if not Loctite them, same for the ones that mount the arms on to the frame. All the nylon stuff doesn't need them, they bite them self so are fine. All of the fram ones will need it and so will the motors. use the blue stuff.

Just to say, I have and all mine are fine. if you do not, they WILL come loose form use.

Best way to apply Loctite if you are using too much is to put a small amount on some card, dab the end threads in it enough to apply a very small amount and do not saturate the threads and then fix in place.

EDIT+++
here is a example from a very knowledgeable david windestål, he is well worth listening to and a great person in the hobby. part of the reason I jumped feet first in to it.
 
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