MX-5 Project log thread

Built the suspension shock/damper assemblies this evening!

One shock and spring seat
shock-perch.jpg



Spring with tubing attached (with the use of silicon spray) which acts as the spring cushion
spring-cushion.jpg



Spring and shock in perfect harmony
shock-spring.jpg



Bump-stop and boot
bumpstop.jpg



Lower topmount bush
spring-bush.jpg



Topmount fitted
spring-topmount-mounted.jpg



Topmount, hex nut and adjuster
topmount-adjuster.jpg



Adjuster knob fitted
adjuster-complete.jpg



Tiny little ball bearings, springs and grub screw for fitting adjuster knob to hex nut (for the damper adjustment "clicks" )
tiny-bearings-spring.jpg


adjuster-grub.jpg



Bottom eye and valve
bottom-valve.jpg



Done!
finished-articles.jpg



Fitting to the car tomorrow :D
 
Well I've been at it since 9am but I'm done now!

The rear was easy, didn't take long, was done by 11am. The front was much more of a bugger though, took a fair bit longer :D Due to finding out exactly how to dismantle it so that I can get the shocks out/in!

Will let some photos do some talking..


Taking apart rear suspension:


As it is normally
susp1.jpg



ARB link detached, top wishbone detached from hub, swung downward
susp2.jpg



It's gone!
susp3.jpg


susp4.jpg



Old vs new shock/spring units
IMG_0377.jpg



New rear units all fitted!
IMG_0378.jpg


IMG_0379.jpg



On to the front:


Much the same to dismantle, but it's a fair whack more fiddly. Instead of detaching the top wishbone from the hub you need to detatch the ball joint bracket/tongue bit from the lower wishbone by undoing a horizontal bolt (easy), and a vertical one which is located in an in-set bit in the wishbone, in order to access this you need to prise the bottom of the damper unit out of the way and wedge it out of the way with a screwdriver. Getting this bolt back in again is rather fiddly as you need to make sure the ball joint lip is lined up! Once this bolt is undone, the ball joint can be swivelled away, and the two wishbones move independently. This means you can get a bit more play in the movement of the shock once it's unbolted, and can pull it out!


This is what it looks like with the above performed

IMG_0380.jpg


IMG_0381.jpg


IMG_0382.jpg



And the new shock finally in place - took some wedging/swearing/swearing/prising! But then I am a n00b.

IMG_0383.jpg



And the top adjusters

IMG_0384.jpg




And there we have it. My first foray in what I'd consider to be 'major' modification/work on a car, and I feel I did quite well. I know I could do it in a third of the time now, anyway! I am very much learning as I go along so my "mechanical techniques" will improve with time, no doubt. I'm very good at sitting, looking at something for a while, whilst pondering my next move to make sure I do it right!


OK so how's the suspension, I hear you ask?

In short, it's much improved!
It’s a lot better through corners. Much stiffer, roll now seems to be non existent. I’m sure it does definitely need the geometry setting up. I did notice perhaps a little lack of grip when cornering, in particular when going round a tight corner in Tesco petrol station carpark..! I assume this is an effect of the probably hugely out of whack geo settings. Another thing I noticed is that it’s a tiny bit bouncier – noticeable when going over speed bumps etc. Certainly felt a lot more planted when I nailed it through a few twisties, though! :)

I have no doubt all of the little quirks will be erased once the geo settings and ride height/stiffness have been tweaked properly!


There is a slight issue with the damper units though, which I recieved in an email from Performance5 after I'd finished doing the rear..! - There's an issue with the bottom mounting bearing/eye in that the spacers inside a bit too short, meaning there's a clonking when going over bumps etc - which was apparent. A solution is being worked on however, and P5 have offered to rectify it for me FOC if I take it to them, which is good of them :) So I am going to do this before I have the geo done, since they're not far from each other.

Very happy thus far, though, and I'm sure it'll only get better!


Some pics!

BEFORE:

before.jpg



AFTER:

done1.jpg


done2.jpg


done3.jpg


done4.jpg
 
So what setting you got it on for stiffness? You say it feels a little bouncy so it seems you may have the shocks a little too soft, probably on setting 2-3 area? If so get that up to 7-8 area, that seems to be the favourite sort of settings.
.

Phil said - 6 to 8 clicks from the hardest setting for road use, I had it set to -7 clicks, I yesterday adjusted it to -6, which has improved it. It wasn't *that* bouncy, just slightly more so, it's better now! :)
 
Right, yesterday I went to Performance5 and Phil (great bloke!) had a look at the suspension and did some tweaks for me, before I set off to Wheels In Motion in the afternoon for the full geometry calibration. The suspension isn't quite sorted yet, but the driveability of the car isn't affected so I'm willing to wait for a solution to be crafted, for perfection's sake.

I then took it for a nice long drive today and, well, what can I say. The combination of new suspension and having the geo done has totally, utterly transformed the car. It's so much sharper, more direct, each tiny bit of steering input is dealt with in such a crisp fashion, it changes direction beautifully. Body roll is hugely reduced, grip is hugely increased, feedback is increased, the car feels a lot more planted. I think this is a combination of the more aggressive geo settings whereby the extra camber and toe help the stability both in a straight line and... not :)

Taking a corner at a certain speed before would have resulted in the car feeling as if it's on the limits of adhesion, whereas now I can attack the same corner at the same if not higher speeds and it feels a great deal more stable. Understeer seems to be all but eliminated which goes a long way towards this. Roundabouts work in much the same way. The more 'balanced' geo settings are a world ahead of the "safe" understeery factory defaults. The icing on the cake also seems that even though I was caught in the ****ing rain on the way home, I felt no less confident, although obviously I wasn't throwing it around with quite the same vigour :) Obviously the decent tyres go a long way towards this.

So that's my verdict. Worth the wait? Yes! Am I happy? Absolutely :D

Edit: Before and after WIM alignment sheet if anyone's interested: HERE

Took the opportunity to take some decent photos too, I think it looks 10x better now it's lowered (rideheight is 330mm rear 320mm front) :


aug09-1.jpg


aug09-2.jpg


aug09-9.jpg


aug09-8.jpg


aug09-3.jpg


aug09-5.jpg


aug09-6.jpg


aug09-7.jpg
 
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What should I do with the numberplate when I have the bumpers painted?

Remove, smooth holes, stick on one at the top of the bumper

Replace as is

Lose the front plate completely :eek:


Vote now!
 
I am *still* waiting for my suspension from Phil :( I'd be more annoyed but the car is still off the road so it's not like it makes a huge amount of difference.

However, I didn't come in here (just!) to moan. I'm also going to need to get these replacement panels on my car sprayed at some point, where are you going Howard, and how much are we talking for a decent job to blend into existing paintwork?
Sucks that you haven't got yours yet :( Feels like ages since I fitted mine! Phil has recently told me he's still testing the 'revised' bottom mount solution properly, so that's why.

I go to a local small outfit that my dad recommended based on his experience as using them as a bodyshop when he worked for a Vauxhall dealer. They do good work and charge £175 IIRC per panel

Howard, PLEASE remove that chrome strip down your doors. Just do it, now, please !!! :(
I plan to when the paint is done, I tried to take it all the way off after catching it on my bag strap and pulling it off from the bottom, but as Dup quite rightly guessed, the paint is a bit chipped and manky underneath so I'll get it removed and touched up. It won't stick back on properly now :mad: Oh well :p

Also, is that the Mk3 ariel from MX5Parts? Mine has a long static ariel that doesn't even collapse and wouldn't last 5 seconds where I live! I'm not bothered about having one at all but It'll be more than £20 to get the hole smoothed out I'm very much sure.

Agreed about the chrome strip, but I assume it's either hiding something or not safe to remove without paint involved.

It's the stubby aerial kit from MX5parts which consists of I think an S2000 aerial and a couple of screw-in converters for it to fit.

And yes you're right about the chrome strip. It's going, don't worry :p
 
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