My 200mph budget build

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Man of Honour
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Happens to us all eventually. Like I've said on here before, I don't think I'll ever fully grow up when it comes to cars (my Golf looks like it should be driven by an 18 year old FFS), but I've certainly 'calmed down' compared to my old Jap turbo-nutter days. I still like the odd thrash down a b-road, but just CBA with the traffic light GP and anything like that any more.

I'd get owned anyway in the Golf :D
 
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well i cant shout enough about making sure the intercooler is cleaned out properly after its been cut and welded.

with a piston engine a little bit of ali filings entering the engine isnt the end of the world, it will melt onto the pistons at worse.

With a rotary the housings are ali aswell so you risk damaging them or even sticking onto the seals which unbalance the engine.

so make sure you clean it properly after :)
 
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thanks very much, should hope to have a mini update on friday as i do some tidying up.

The name bruce from troc does sound very familiar, what happened to your 5?

My silver beast was stripped as shell split and was rusted and my Phat 5 was sold after a F7R 2.0l conversion and crashed by the new owner next day. :(

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ah yes i remember you now!

We all ran them side exits at one point, sounded great on boost.

I remember when i was a complete unknown in the r5 world until i went to pod for national day and won frog of the pod and started the giant front mount intercooler craze.....first ever run in the car at pod and first run was a 12.9....certainly got some stares after everyone telling me 12s are really hard to hit, they werent happy when i turned the boost up more in the afternoon and ran a 12.5 haha
 
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quick little update for anyone, decided to sort out my engine loom today as it looked a big mess being cable tied between the engine and rad.

First job was take out the rad and cooler, put the cooler to one side so people could see what i mean from my dodgy Paint drawings.
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as has been mentioned with the spec r cooler about coming in from the top, full 3 inch access with no restrictions as you can see below, its common place all over the world but as usual seems to be ford owners are only just catching up, suppose its like twin scroll turbo/manifolds jap cars have been doing it since the 80s
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put all the wiring loom back in its original position, had to cut and remove a lot of the plastic covering then retape all the loom, a lot of trial and error which took along time, but finally got everything back in, flipped the fusebox upside down and bent a couple of brackets to put it back in its origional position to save cuttign anymore wires, which then warren extended my radiator fan wires while i worked on a few other bits and bobs(putting a filter back on the second turbo as no room before with wires everywhere)
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wiring all back in and covered with protection nicked from warrens weird ford collection of parts.
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As previously mentioned by myself and other people, a large factor with rotarys is the heat that they produce, this has been delt with to a extent with a larger radiator, bigger intercooler and dual oil coolers.

But the more heat you extract from the engine, the more heat you have to remove from the engine bay, hence the next task i came across was this.

i looked at a few aftermarket bonnets, looked at the aerodynamics of each and most importantly the drag factor involved.

after looking at them all and also bringing cost into the equation i came up with the perfect balance, this is a RE AD9 replica bonnet, theses are normal £1000 for a real one, this brand new cost £250

First thing to do was unwrap it, this took me about 15mins, i have never come across something so well wrapped in my life, at one point i was thinking it will never end, it had 10 layers of protection!

so i ended up with a big pile in the corner of the room
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and this is what i was left with.
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ok lets have a look at this properly to see what imperfections we can find:D

tiny bit of discolouration, but then thats why you paint it anyway.
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tiny bit of top layer flaked away but paint sorts that.
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small chip on the drivers furthest rear vent, its about 1cm in length
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checked down the edges to find any major imperfections, luckily these are all on the underside of the bonnet, no chips but just a bit rough.
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Came with i suppose can only be described as a 'super *****' raintray screwed underneath, im not sure if it was to protect the edges of the vents in transit or not, removed it as it will stop cooling.
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once this was removed you can see a lot more of the mould, i think im gonna cut the raintray up and bolt it back on in its original position but with gaps where the vents are so its a bit neater.
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And probably the most important part is the fitment!

Bolted it on and lowered it down for the first time with no adjustments to get an idea of whats happening
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then spent a couple of mins doing a bit of adjustment, it seems the bolts for the hinges are maybe 1mm further apart than a stock bonnet so you have no movement there, only movement i had was at the front end, but ended up with this which doesnt look to bad, will look decent when ive put some bonnet catches and its painted!

here is a link to a full 5meg pixel imagine of the last one above so you can see it better, didnt want to include it as its huge, but you should be able look closer with it.
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/3195/p20081019060001.jpg

from aero testing one thing i have noticed is that now because the air has 2 exits avaliable to it(before it was just the gearbox tunnel) the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body is warmer as thats in the middle of a vent(hot air flows around it) so ill need to either incorpurate some shielding or wrap it to keep the heat out, even so it hasnt affected inlet temps in boost. Also i know get a lovely heat haze coming out of the vents in traffic.
 
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bolted my braces on the diff and gearbox now, also ripped all my sequential look out from under the inlet plenum, since i wont be needing it in the future and just put the stock twins running sequential, hits 10psi at 4rpm, 18psi at 4700rpm(compared to 3000rpm before) which will be similar to what my big turbo will be like, defo different to drive now!!

quick update for the front, change of bumper and bonnet, keeping the stock bonnet and bumper in my shed though as ill use them on the run since less openings the better for aero purposes.

you can tell i could do with some sideskirts as the front is really aggressive compared to the rear and sides

got my seats coming next month, i know a lot of you guys were concerned about safety so you will be happy to know that these are fia approved race seats, ill also save 20kg off the shell which cant hurt!

then i can sort out some wheels and tyres, ill be running 18x10 which tyres that will effectively lengthen my diff ratio meaning i wont need to change the rear diff, saves a lot of hassle and money! also look a lot better!

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Soldato
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quite amazing how all the sequential gubbins work after all this time. on the engines im often working on its often the vac/boost hoses on the manifold that are shot causing problems
 
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yeh, its a very complicated setup, to give you guys an idea of what it looks like, i give you, the rats nest!!

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or in diagram form

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and this is what i spent a few hours last week doing

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as you can see, a lot less things to go wrong.

got myself a boost controller that plugs into the original ecu, so it saves me having an extra box of tricks on my dashboard
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loads missing!!

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yep, most people either give up or spend £1000 for a tuner to spend a week trying to fix it.

when i come to fit my 2000cc injectors and frp, ill remove the rats nest chassis aswell, just didnt have any T pieces at the time for the left over vacuum hoses.
 
Man of Honour
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yep, most people either give up or spend £1000 for a tuner to spend a week trying to fix it.

Indeed.

Having said that, despite my moaning it all went pretty smoothly when I did my rebuild, I basically labelled everything 'A' to 'A' etc. and the turbos worked as they should from the get go. It was just a really unpleasant and laborious job :(
 
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