My 200mph budget build

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your saying once a certain airflow is reached the air literally backs up at the 20mm restrictor?

When trying to force more air threw a restriction you can increase the boost pressure to componsate for that.

150bhp at 10krpm would be 78lbs of torque, not a lot

throwing boost threw a 20mm restriction you normally max out at around 25lbs of air i would say.

What vacuum do you speak off, theres a vacuum on the inlet side of the turbo but its designed for that, the outlet of the compressor side will be under pressure.
 
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decided to sort out the wiring for the wideband tonight, get it labelled and sleeved, as ill hook it all tomorow and dont fancy being sat underneath my dash all day, now just need to connect to ground and find a ignition 12v live and im done

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Well recieved my water pump pulley yesterday so decided to get it fitted.
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Now you might think this is just a bit of bling but this has a fundemental change to the belt system on an rx7

due to the nature of a rotary engine, they require a lot of fuel to pretty much do anything, which means when idleing they put out a lot of crap.

very strict emmisions around the world has caused problems for the rotary engine so what the designers did was fit a belt driven pump onto the engine that pumps pure air into the exhaust system to fool the MOT places into thinking the casr pumps out very little fumes.

It also has the effect of helping to cool the cat, an average piston engine when pushed very hard will get up to 1300-1400f exhaust gas temperatures, a rotary will put that sort of temps out cruising, and can get up to 1800f flat out, as you can imagine its very easy to cook a cat in that situation, infact its a very common thing on rotarys that they can cause the cat to infact collapse from this.

Now on my engine i have removed the cat, so pump is purely a parasitic loss that is just pumping air to an open ended pipe under the car, plus it will be in the way when i fit my big turbo

If you look at where water filler cap is, you can just see the pump the left hand side of it with a pipe coming off the top which feeds the pump its fresh air.
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This is then removed and looks like this, weights 5kg aswell so another little weight saving cant hurt.
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Leaves this gap here, you can now see the front turbo and another black bracket that helped hold the pump, this is then removed.
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we then remove the original water pulley, the reason this is removed is because the pulley runs off the outside of the belt, while normally this is fine as 60% is in contact so theres no slippage, with the pump removed this becomes an issue.
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so we replace the waterpump pulley with one that has rougher outer edge as you can see from the picture to gain back some of that friction
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installation is pretty easy, just use the 4 new bolts provided and bolt back up
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next up is replacing the alternator pulley, this is partially to make it look better than the stock one and also because the pulley is larger it makes choosing a new belt much easier as you can use a standard 78cm belt.
This was a bit of a pain in the arse to get off, ended up using a mates impact gun as i bent a screwdriver trying to hold the alternator internals in place while unscrewing the bolt.
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once bolted up i put my new belt on
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one issue ive had with my new radiator is that because the inlet pipe doesnt stick out enough, my air filters have been pushing on the waterpipe which meant the rad fan was catching the pipe....as you can imagine thats gonna end in disaster so now i have all this extra space with the airpump gone i decided to move my airfilters back into the engine back to relieve the pressure on the water pipe.

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started it up and all sorted, i know its only a small update, but slowly getting there
 
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yeh, its just a bling thing to be fair, just so you can show to random people you have a rotary engine like its some proud affair.

its equally weighed all around so there shouldnt be any balance issues
 
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thanks lashout, yeh its interesting to watch itself shut off when you get to 2krpm plus, clever little system, on the rx7 there was a pipe that ran from the pump to just infront of the cat so i made the assumption it flowed air into it to help with what i mentioned above, but if im wrong thanks for the info :)

luckily i plugged all the ports when the engine was being rebuilt, just didnt have the spare change to get the pulley kit at the time so ran the pump basically doing nothing.

The cat does struggle with massive temps though, infact when it gets to hot the heat light comes on to let you know, i assumed that mazda thought most people would back off the throttle and let it cool down, maybe dropping below 3k which would chuck air at it.

saying that it took a flat out run at 165mph before i got my cat that hot
 
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you can get the normal shape ones but they are discontinued on ebay at the moment, tried for a couple of months to get them but doesnt look like china are making anymore.

I could get a greddy set but they are £150 for the set compared to £75 what i paid for these
 
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im not 100% sure ill be honest, i dont start my new job till 19th of july as i got made redundant from my last one so progress has been rather slow.

The hope is:

fit my intercooler in august with my first pay check
buy and fit my injectors, fuel rails and fuel pressure regulator in september
buy and fit my igntion system in october
get my turbo in november
finish the car and map it in december.

we shall see though, that bars any potential problem i come up against, if i put £500 a month at the project that should hopefully cover it, but you never know
 
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ok next little update.


When Ford RS Castle Combe was on i decided to go with Warren(housemate) as i thought it would be a fun day out and it got me out of the house.

Anyway really enjoyed the day, got to meet Mark Shead and Rod which was great(215mph cossie guys) Mark knew a lot more about rotarys than i thought he would, the mans a jack of all trades!


Anyway i came across Danny from Enhanced Performance with his car(610bhp rwd escort) after watching him do a few track sessions i thought id come over and say hello.

We got talking and he was interested in my top speed effort and he and luke said to get in touch with them about it.

Been chatting to Danny on a forum and they have decided to sponsor me to achieve my aims!!

Im now booked in on 4th August to have my intercooler fitted and pipes made up
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Hopefully with their help things can progress a lot quicker and i can finally get this project moving in the right direction.

As usual ill take loads of photos of how it all goes so you can see their work and a full report from me in detail about everything that goes on.
 
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im sure they chucked about 50k at it in the end, they didnt start with a good car to begin with to be honest, i wouldnt have chosen a lotus to make 600bhp+ anyway!!

i can understand there principles in regards of aerodynamics by choosing the lotus but they didnt look at the overall package, ie what can the mechanicals take.

You have to cover all angles with a challenge like this, it showed when they went back with a proper car....good aero, good weight and 650bhp proven engine and transmission....look what happens they do it
 
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Well im sitting here trying to put into words what has happened in the last few days and how grateful i am that you get chance to meet certain people in this world.

The person or may i say the group are Enhanced Performance, never have I met a bunch of guys willing to go massively out of their way to help someone with a project, its the type of thing that really makes a company in my eyes!

Earlier on in this thread I mentioned that they were going to help me fit an intercooler, so we booked it in for wednesday to come down and get it done.

Leaving at 400am in the morning i head down south so that i can be there for when they open, on the way down i did a bit of mapping on the cruise parts of the map.

Holding 15.8-16.2afr at 70mph meant im now getting 29mpg which is a lot better than most get, it being my daily driver its important to get some sort of economy!

So i arrive at 8am, watch 30mins of a movie on my laptop and then Luke arrives.

Straight away im offered a drink and we start chatting ideas, i have a look around the workshop and im amazed at the variety of cars there.....from the famous escort of dannys to an impreza, celica gt4 and even an old lotus elan.

We start stripping all the old tiny intercooler off and removing the rad outside(to stop water filling the garage)

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Very small cooler, would be great for a kitcar with a turbod engine id imagine

Nice big space to work with

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Once that was off we stood the radiator upright...it normally sits almost horizontal, then extended the brackets to encorporate this, once that was done a short couple of cuts to the rad hosing to twist them around into position and bobs your uncle.

In the afternoon a fella turned up with a stupidly mint old school yb powered escort, now to say this thing was mint is a bit of an understatement, it had come from malta so you know what they are like over there.

The reason for its visit was he had blown his turbo pretty much on the first day......fairly unlucky id say, so Luke found him another one and we got on with fitting it.

Now ive fitted turbos to all sorts of things over the years but never have i had so much problem doing this one.

the turbine housing had been left on and the owner had put the turbo back into the housing and was trying to bolt it back together.

First thing i did was adjust the centre section so the oil would flow perfectly vertical, tightened the bolts then adjusted the comp housing so that silicone pipe wasnt restricted.

feeling pretty happy with myself at that point was my big mistake of the day!!

Once i come to put the oil return pipe on we found it hit the manifold.......so i had to then loosen the bolts and clock the centre around, we then had to then reclock the comp housing back to the right position.....felt like it took forever as theres a lot of bolts to play with!

Anyway once it was all done, luke stuck it on the rollers.

Now there has been a bit of debate on these forums about power out of such and such etc but im not one to blindly follow a tuner war and watched this session with an open mind.

Now i have seen a lot of dyno graphs, including afr.....or lamda as luke kept reminding me haha.

Ill be the first one to call someones mapping crap, i pick no bones about it, if your crap ill tell everyone to avoid you and have in the past mentioned maybe 7 or 8 companies on forums who ive actually watched map a car and wouldnt touch with a bargepole, if id have seen crap mapping that day it would be the last time id ever visit them.

After watching luke map i can honestly say i was very very impressed, for a start the dynodynamics rollers are a work of art, so much better than anything else ive come across, you can really see why they are rated the best in the world, lukes afr figures were spot on and flat like a billard table, no up and down like a yoyo as ive seen on other peoples, id highly recommend him for mapping pretty much anything, the amount of equipment he has and the knowledge he has doesnt seem at all to be limited to the usual ford engines, give him pretty much any car with a crank in it and he will successfully map it, for example they have mapped a 1000bhp supra drag car and at that level if your crap things go wrong very quickly!

Well that was pretty much day 1 of my southern road trip, luke very kindly lent me his skyline so i could drive to the local premier inn(hardest bad in the world!) for the night........i dont think i know of anyone who would lend a young lad they hardly knew a rwd skyline to drive around in, was actually pretty nice to drive......but yes its a skybus, the M25 is a small circle than the steering wheel on it, it was HUGE!


The next day i arrive at 830am ready to get the car finished.

The biggest issue was the intercooler to be honest, i actually feel really guilty about it because i didnt really tell the guys how much of a massive job this was going to be, but in there professionalism they cracked on with it anyway.

the intercooler is an ebay GTR replica, they have already been run on 1000bhp skylines so i know they will take the power......plus i only paid £78inc shipping for it brand new, the real greddy version are around £1500.....so a big saving!

After discussing multiple ways we could fit it we narrowed it down to 2 choices, either fit it in the engine bay or fit it in the bumper, eventually we decided to fit it in the engine bay, which is where a lot of time has been spent.

The reason for this is 4 fold.

1. It shortens the pipework with saves weight and can help with throttle response.

2. Because the cooler weighs around 14kg, you want it as far back as possible to maintain the cars perfect 50/50 weight distribution, the car has already lost 90kg over factory figures and most of that is from the rear so having even more weight further forward wont help matters, ive removed the front bumper bar to help out but the closer to the centre of the chassis the better!

3. If you were to be involved in a minor accident, say someone reversed into it while its parked, because its so large there would literally be about 5mm of plastic between it and the offending car, which could easily ruin your brand new cooler.

4. Because im using the original bumper you are very restricted in terms of the airflow allowed to the engine and running a cooler this thick can cause issues, now if we fitted it in the bumper what would happen is air would only be able to pass through about 30% of the cooler as the rest would be blocked by the bumper.....also any that did hit the intercooler would be spilled over the sides and over the bonnet and to the oil coolers, as the air will just get backed up infront of the cooler like so:

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As you can see from my dodgy drawing once the air has entered the bumper there is physically nowhere for it to go but through the intercooler hence im making maximum use of the limited opening

the big problem with fitting it into the engine bay is that its so wide that it physically wont fit.

Here below is a picture to give you an idea

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the bottom arrow dictates that the chassis rails are 710mm wide and that the cooler is much bigger.

so the end tanks were cut off and new ones made from scratch, the only issue with doing this is that air likes to take the path of least resistance and if we basically just 'backdoored' the cooler you would find the bottom of the cooler wouldnt actually cool the air properly.

quick Paint pic to help with new idea
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So what we decided was to fit the inlets pointing down into the cooler, that way the flow of air will be directed to the lower parts of the cooler and be more effecient, the idea came from rods cooler that he had done.

Infact the physical size of the core is very similar to rods, just a bit thicker(4.7in vs 3.8in) so it should be pretty comparable.

once the cooler was in and the rad bolted up the fun part was welding on the inlets, that probably took the most time to make sure we got everything angled correct, to say it was a tight fit was an understatement!


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The next part was fun, because the car only comes with 2.75in pipework from factory and ive still got the stock twin turbos on there we had to work out how to 'upscale' as such from turbos to cooler.

Luckily i had brought with me a piece of the old intercooler kit that i never bothered with, it was just what we needed, unfortunately it was made from the worst aluminum known to man, so there was a lot of grumbles to be heard while the tig welder was in force!

But happily he came up with this.
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Because the original end was such a wide angle, we cut a slice in it to tighten the angle so it wouldnt pop out of the turbo outlet
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We then connected up the pipework from the intercooler to the throttle body, if you look back a few pages you will see that i attacked the aftermarket elbow to increase its size from 70mm to 80mm inlet size just for this day so that the there would be no restrictions in flow
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then we moved back tot he turbo side and used a long 3inch silicone pipe to connect them up.

The reason for this is because silicone pipe is a worse conductor of heat than metal, this means that when the car is at low rpm or has been left standing still you wont have heatsoak problems, as the heat from the turbos heats up the turbo outlet pipe you can physically feel the silicone pipe getting colder as it heads towards the intercooler, last night i couldnt even touch the turbo pipe yet 20cm down it was cold to the touch, well before the intercooler entry

At this point we were coming up to 7pm and since we had been on it since 9am in the morning it was decided to try and finish it, the wiring loom had been removed out of the way while we were designing it and to save time we cable tied it between the engine and the rad, which means ill be taking everything out next week when i get chance and routing it all in properly, the reason we couldnt do it at that time was we needed to extend a lot of wires and it was late in the day, but overall i think it looks amazing!!!

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in this picture below you can really see how thick this thing is, everyone laughed at the madness of a 120mm core

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And in this one you can really see what i was on about when i mentioned about where to put the intercooler, look how small the opening is in the bumper, would have struggled to get any decent air contact over the cooler!

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So if you have read all this so far, well done i appreciate your interest!

But its all well and good fitting something like this but the most important question is does it actually work.

I can categorically say it works better than i could have imagined!

I did some testing the previous weekend running 17psi of boost on v-power fuel. I recorded 49c inlet temps and knock of around 35-40 on the power fc commander.

With the new setup running the same boost, when it come on boost the knock went down to 8, but only on 95ron aswell which is madness!!

Cruising along the motorway gave me 21c inlet temps(used to be 37c) but the best thing about it is that when i pull up to 17psi of boost the actually inlet temps drop to around 19c, which means the sensor is reading 21c cruise because of the inlet manifold keeping it warm!

Id imagine with my 20psi of planned boost for the twins while i save up for the rest of the bits im looking at 25c max inlet temps in boost!


One other concern that people have shouted at me is water temps, that running such a thick cooler will mean no air to the rad and that it will overheat, again this was proven false because most rx7s run the cooler in the bumper which ive previously mentioned causes very small amount of air to enter the engine bay, by far this setup of mine fixes those issues.

cruising to Enhanced gave me 86c water temps.....thats with the rad getting the full use of the incoming air to its entire surface, on the way home with the big intercooler i was sitting at 86-87c so it made no difference and infact i wasnt running the undertray(put it in the boot for me to refit when i get chance) so putting that back on will probably help improve it even further!!




So what have i learnt from my 2 days experience.........well its hard to put it into words really, ive never ever been impressed with any company like i have with Enhanced Performance, the quality workmanship, the hard work ethic and most importantly there customer service skills, Luke really has been a revelation in terms of someone to deal with, for example driving half way around the south of london getting pipework for me at 9am in the morning to make sure the car looked the best it possibly could be, ive met a lot of tuners and most talk to you like your retarded, but here they listened to me, expanded on my ideas and treated me with respect and that is what every tuner should do by default.


Would i recommend them after this, 110% I would, from the wealth of experience they have I dont think theres nothing they could do, from Luke and Ike mapping skills.....i think Ikes amazing, the things hes done and still doing blow my brain...hes worth the visit across the country just to speak to him.
Pretty much any type fabricating you can think of, whether its exhausts, manifolds, intercoolers, radiators, custom camshafts ,rods, pistons...they can pretty much create anything for any car.

And to finish it off you wont meet a nicer pair of guys between Luke and Danny whatever you go to them for, Ford or not
 
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would have thought that would have got some attention lol

ah well, heres another update.

Picked up my diff and gearbox braces today, got them half price of what they are new :)

the standard gearbox can take an awful lot of power...ive seen 900bhp being run through one, but with that sort of strain you will get movement on the chassis, this brace helps keep it in position to stop breakages.
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the diff brace helps 2 fold, firstly that because again theres less movement you will have a much stronger transmission setup and also rx7s suffer with axle shake when you launch them, this solves that problem, its normally the shaking that breaks these diffs

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that now covers my transmission, another thing ticked off the sheet!
 
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Yes I know, that was my exact point. :s the only conclusion you could come to from that data was the thermostat rating. It could be 50% open now instead of 30% whilst it maintains 86C.

Tbh if it's ducted nicely to prevent spill you only need around 25% aperture size the cooling pack area. That said this is a seriously thick stack up so the more the better.

this is indeed true, i am now currently governed by the thermostat...as before infact, it still needs a lot of work, like fitting my undertray again, i know some of the air is entering the bumper and flowing under the car so there will be some cooling increases by doing that.

The reason its not on the car is because the cooler and rad are coming out again on thursday so i can re-install my engine loom properly, on that day everything will go back together and ill do some proper high load tests.

No your right. Running a car flat out for nearly a minute doesn't need cooling to be considered.

Fact is that the air hitting the rad will be not only restricted by the intercooler but also warmed up by. The real test will be on a top speed run

its actually around 32secs that it needs to be flat out for, with this in mind i beleive i have the correct setup but theory only gets you so far, probably next week ill try to do some 140mph+ work to see how it copes

Looks like a great project! Hope you carry on mapping yourself and stay away from the likes of re-worx/WGT, lot of people saying they aren't as good as all they cracked up to be!

From what ive seen reworx arnt a bad place, there mapping seems pretty consistant fromt he afr graphs ive seen.

WGT i wouldnt touch with a bargepole for mapping, run them way to rich and ive never once seen a car thats been mapped by them make power ive been impressed with.

Ill do all my own mapping, but at 2bar on racegas at around 700bhp ill probably ask for a little bit of help on the ignition timing as this is in the unknown to me
 
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[FnG]magnolia;17113230 said:
This is a really interesting thread but it does remind me of how poor my mechanical ability is. Looking forward to seeing this completed.

Anyone can learn, im all self taught, only thing i ever got taught was my electrical and mechanical apprentiship, which means i can use 99% of tools and machinery for working metals
 
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yes, basically ill be fully on the throttle on the apex of the corner until i hit 200.

im not doing a 0-200 because even though my diff is braced, it wont take a big launch with that much power and i risk blowing it up on the start line.

Just gotta be careful i dont get a massive 100mph sideways incident trying to get the power down to early as messing it up will hamper my run
 
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enhanced performance down south...if you want someone closer, theres a place in stoke that would do the same sort of work for £100, they are a big aluminum welding company who i got a quote from and ive seen there work and its top quality, i can track there details down for you if you like?
 
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well i cant shout enough about making sure the intercooler is cleaned out properly after its been cut and welded.

with a piston engine a little bit of ali filings entering the engine isnt the end of the world, it will melt onto the pistons at worse.

With a rotary the housings are ali aswell so you risk damaging them or even sticking onto the seals which unbalance the engine.

so make sure you clean it properly after :)
 
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