My Golf Project

  • Thread starter Thread starter L1J
  • Start date Start date
Another update, flying along here today!

I need to move the battery from the passenger side to the drivers side as the 20V engine air filter will be on the passenger side and it will impossible to have the washer bottle, battery and air filter in the same place.

So I've removed the battery bracket and air box brackets from the engine bay. I will need to get the battery bracket welded on the drivers side. This is how I went about it:

Spot weld drill bits

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Air box bracket

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Both welds drilled out

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Slight tap with a hammer and

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Area cleaned up with wire brush

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Same with the battery bracket

Two welds drilled out

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Removed bracket

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Found some rust that will have to be cut out, plated and welded

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Lots of rust underneath the bracket

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There *might* be another update tonight!
 
Need to place the battery brackets on the drivers side

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Battery size marked and area started to be made level with a hammer

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Will use this hole to secure the removable bracket

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Need to make a little wedge to make sure the battery sits level

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It should be here once finished

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Airbox for the passenger side is proving more difficult the air outlet is facing the wrong way.

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This doenst look like it could flow enough air for 200bhp!

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Does anyone know of a car that has an airbox on the passenger side with about 250bhp as standard? Needs to fit in this area!

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Failing that, I will have to make a cold air box for a K+N filter in the space available.
 
Just googled and found some images, thanks :)

I could rotate the airbox through 90 degrees, but without the engine and box in place it's hard to see if I have enough room.

I think a cone filter and suitable heat shielding is the best option.
 
L1J said:
I think a cone filter and suitable heat shielding is the best option.

Be warned, most of the highly strung Cupra R owners still swear by the airbox, (albeit smoothed out internally and with a green filter inside of it) due to the immense heat of the turbo and associated pipework that is stupidly close.

You may find that you get heatsoak unless you really move the filter a loooong way from the inlet. Like at the front of the bay or something.
 
paradigm said:
Be warned, most of the highly strung Cupra R owners still swear by the airbox, (albeit smoothed out internally and with a green filter inside of it) due to the immense heat of the turbo and associated pipework that is stupidly close.

You may find that you get heatsoak unless you really move the filter a loooong way from the inlet. Like at the front of the bay or something.

I was thinking of heat shielding along the lines of below, with a cone filter within the box.

Excuse the CAD skills ;)

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Edited to add:

The downpipe etc will be lagged to minimise under bonnet heat
 
Last update for today

Started to make the heat shield for the air filter by putting the front panel on and closing the bonnet to see how much room I had

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Used some cardboard to make a template

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View from headlamp

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Templates transfered to some alloy sheet to be cut and folded tomorrow

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First update for today!

Sheet cut, bent and attached together

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Heat shield in place, I cut it over size and took it down slowly with a file to get a good fit

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Happy with that :)
 
After speaking to someone in work this morning, he suggested I use a battery holder from something like a ford to hold the battery.

Look what I had in the garage! It's for a RS Turbo that a friend started to repair but never got round to finishing.

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Spot welds drilled out

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Will fit in here and will look much better than what I could produce at home!

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Thanks for the suggestion Alan :)
 
Last edited:
Barry Smalley said:
You want to be doing a thread like this on CGTI, Llyr. :)

I know, It's just a time thing at the moment, will try and post one up once this course I'm on in work finishes. Will have more spare time then!

Another update for today

Started to clean up the passat hubs

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Not happy with the finish using the wire brush attachment so I'm going to get them shot blasted

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Took the inlet manifold off the Leon engine which is drive by wire (no throttle cable) which means I haven't got a suitable mounting point for one that I will need to use with the conversion.

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Borrowed a cable throttle body manifold from a friend, I need to attach a similar mounting to the one circled to my inlet manifold.

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I needed to fit the Passat gear lever mechanism which is cable operated instead of the rod change normally found on Mk2 GTIs

Rod change mechanism mounted

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Removed

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Cable change (left) vs rod change

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Removed the mounting part of the rod mechanism

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Used it as a template to make a new mounting plate

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Cut the new plate out and checked to make sure it fitted

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Plate in place on the bottom of the cable change mechanism

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All tightened up and in place

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Look the gear knob will be in the right place :D

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Takes 2 minutes to post, 2 hours to do!

Will see how the alloy plate copes with the compression the bolts are putting on it over the next few days, if it isnt right I will get a plate made out of stainless steel.
 
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