NEARLY 2 YEARS WAITING: New Mustang GT PP is finally mine!

That is just superb.

I wonder how well these will hold value. Do want!

Their success will be their downfall, I think 2yr-3yr time they will be 20k used with around 30-40,000 miles on the clock. But if we all had crystal balls and could accurately predict the future, I'd be playing the lottery and down the local bookies placing a few bets. :D


Looks absolutely brilliant Gibbo!

I intended to pop into the shop yesterday to see if I could drag you out to show me the car but I got stuck it rubbish traffic so gave it a miss.

No problem, see the car outside, just ask for me at sales counter and let them know who you are and as long as I am at my desk and not in meetings I will come down for sure. :)
 
The fact that these will be affordable in a few years time makes me wish I worked closer to home so I didn't have to worry about eco... :( :p

How much have you spent on sorting out the handling dynamics? (suspension, bushes, reinforcements and whathaveyou)
 
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The fact that these will be affordable in a few years time makes me wish I worked closer to home so I didn't have to worry about eco... :( :p

How much have you spent on sorting out the handling dynamics? (suspension, bushes, reinforcements and whathaveyou)


I've spent about £3500, but that also got me exhaust, interior modifications, all LED exterior lights etc.

To sum up the suspension parts that have the biggest impact in order of their effectiveness:
1. FRPP Race/Handling Kit (dampers, springs, roll bars, bushes): £700
2. BMR Cradle lock out kit (Eliminates the rubberized feeling in rear): £150
3. Steeda Differential bushing inserts (eliminates floaty/rubberized in rear): £100
4. Steeda G-trac brace, tightens front-end up. £150


Those are all landed prices, yes I have a couple more suspension parts but their impact was less so, the above 4 transform the car and I did it for around £1000. These same parts now cost £1500 delivered, exchange rates, lack of Black Friday deals etc. But in 2 years the GBP could be vastly stronger and you might be buying these parts for even less.

In short £3000 can transform the car, suspension, exhaust, interior to give you a much better look, handling and sound. :)


The biggest expense on this car will always come in the form of new wheels/tyres and a super charger kit, but even then the value is incredible, you can't add 300-400BHP to a Mercedes AMG reliably for less than £5000, not even £10,000 and even hard to do at £20,000. On the Mustang the kits start from around $5500 and they are bolt-on design so do it yourself at home. :)
 
Well if I still like them in say, 5 years time, and if I miraculously find a new job which is walking distance away, I'll chuck you a message... In the mean time, back to pipe dreams. :)

Thanks for the info!
 
I've spent about £3500, but that also got me exhaust, interior modifications, all LED exterior lights etc.

To sum up the suspension parts that have the biggest impact in order of their effectiveness:
1. FRPP Race/Handling Kit (dampers, springs, roll bars, bushes): £700
2. BMR Cradle lock out kit (Eliminates the rubberized feeling in rear): £150
3. Steeda Differential bushing inserts (eliminates floaty/rubberized in rear): £100
4. Steeda G-trac brace, tightens front-end up. £150


Those are all landed prices, yes I have a couple more suspension parts but their impact was less so, the above 4 transform the car and I did it for around £1000. These same parts now cost £1500 delivered, exchange rates, lack of Black Friday deals etc. But in 2 years the GBP could be vastly stronger and you might be buying these parts for even less.

In short £3000 can transform the car, suspension, exhaust, interior to give you a much better look, handling and sound. :)


The biggest expense on this car will always come in the form of new wheels/tyres and a super charger kit, but even then the value is incredible, you can't add 300-400BHP to a Mercedes AMG reliably for less than £5000, not even £10,000 and even hard to do at £20,000. On the Mustang the kits start from around $5500 and they are bolt-on design so do it yourself at home. :)

Some would say that's wasted power though- wheel spinning through most of your gears is fun but ultimately pointless.

The Mustang isn't exactly slow at stock, so i'd lean towards keeping it N/A and bumping the power slightly that way, rather than anything else.
 
Some would say that's wasted power though- wheel spinning through most of your gears is fun but ultimately pointless.

The Mustang isn't exactly slow at stock, so i'd lean towards keeping it N/A and bumping the power slightly that way, rather than anything else.


It won't spin the wheels on a proper setup car. I've posted the video quite a few times on the forum of the guy with the Whipple setup running 10.5s quarter mile run after run on road legal tyres.

Having owned a 600BHP Mustang, I could put it in 2nd gear at any RPM and put every single horsepower to the road with zero wheelspin and that was wearing 275 section rear Pzero tyres.

New Mustang chassis has a lot more grip/traction, plus I will have much wider and stickier tyres being 305/315 section on the rear and something from Michelin, as long as I keep power to around 650BHP it will be fine for traction, over 750 there shall be issues.

But that is why I shall go with a Whipple setup as they come with the flight control software where you can customise the boost in each gear, so in 1st gear I could set the car to only 500BHP, 2nd 600BHP and 3rd gear 700BHP or whatever is required to prevent spin. Or I could just modulate the throttle control, but either way Whipple kits are the best, they PCM/Software is written by Ford engineer/programmers hence why they are best and safest kits.


However to begin with I shall just go with NA tuning like you suggest, because this car is actually surprisingly quite fast, its on parr with the 911 in a straight line, maybe a bit quicker in the 60-130mph range due to torque and not far of M3 pace. So an extra 60-75BHP NA might satisfy me and its cheap to get at about £1000 delivered for the parts, which for NA tuning is not bad.

Thing what I love about super chargers is they have no negative impact on drivability and on my old Mustang you can just smash the throttle in 2nd gear and induce whiplash it was so aggressive and punchy, or just floor the throttle in 4th or 5th at 50mph and within seconds be doing 150mph. It is great fun and the whole idea of this car was to go back to have such big power again, the fact it also happens to corner very well and be a nice place to sit is a bonus. :)
 
Loving the shine on that, colour really suits the car. Autobrites stuff is top notch as well. I'm spending too much time and money there myself since they moved to wolstanton.
 
It's a great looking car. It's a bit insulting to the mustang family that you can buy a cheaper version with the 2.3 ECOBoost engine. Should be V8 or nothing!
 
Some would say that's wasted power though- wheel spinning through most of your gears is fun but ultimately pointless.

The Mustang isn't exactly slow at stock, so i'd lean towards keeping it N/A and bumping the power slightly that way, rather than anything else.

Here ya go, this the phase 1 Roush kit:

CUwFLrfUwAA0Niz.jpg




Things to note, stock wheels, road legal tyres, consistently trapping in the 10s with 130+ terminals, 0-100mph in about 7s, traction is good. More impressive this is a manual with 3.73 gears and no rear-end suspension modifications to aid traction. This is also the first tune revision with 630HP!

He hopes to dip into 9s on the new 670HP tune and suspension modifications whilst still running road legal tyres.


You can get this 670HP kit for $6500 delivered (discount code required):
http://www.cjponyparts.com/roush-supercharger-kit-phase-1-670hp-5-0l-2015-2016/p/421823/


UK owners also have an advantage as UK cars have taller 3.55 gearing which helps with traction, also as and when I go this route, I will have 305/315 section rubber on the back and I plan on going with Whipple not Roush as Whipple is twin screw so the torque is not as big and created higher up rev band, which also helps aid traction as well. Plus as I mentioned Whipples come with flight control software so if you are having traction issues in certain gears you can simply reduce the power in lower gears. :)


As more time passes only more options will come to market, so I am happy to sit back, enjoy the car NA and see how things develop and how UK owners get on with Roush and Whipple kits. :)
 
What's the reason behind the gearing difference? Sounds quite odd. Is it to do with EU regs of some sort?

Don't know to be honest, but out of all the things the EU cars got deprived off compared to US cars, it is one of the things I am happy about, as the car does not need such short gearing, it is not like its lacking power/torque.

So the 3.55 makes me happy but I have no idea as to why they did it.
 
HI there


Today I fitted the Eibach 15mm hubcentric rear spacer. After trial fitting 23mm spacers on the rear there was too much poke for my liking and I feel 20mm would also be poking too much. As such I decided to give 15mm a go, here is a link to the spacers I purchased:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-15...stang-S90-6-15-056-2015-WP-237-/172100752240?


These spacers are the best design I have come across as they weigh less and are in my view safer, not only that there is no issue with torquing the nuts to the full 148lb/ft as stated in the hand book.

However fitting this type of spacer is not the usual five minute job, give yourself an hour per side and take your time.


DIY Guide!

1. Start by jacking the car and removing the wheel (21mm socket)

2. Remove brake caliper, this is hardest part as it is hard to get a big wrench/socket in the wheel well, so patience needed. (18mm socket)

3. Remove the splash guard, by undoing the three 8mm bolts
IMG_5917.jpg


4. With it removed be sure to support the calipers weight, I used some bricks!
IMG_5918.jpg


5. Now remove the old studs one at a time by hitting with a small metal hammer, no need to go insane, just moderate force hits will do it, also put a 14mm nut on the bolts and hit that bolt with the hammer to preserve the threads on the stock studs.
IMG_5919.jpg


6. Once the stud is out, put the new longer stud in place, note you will only get the studs in and out between the 11-12o'clock position and they will go in with gentle tapping, if they are not just rotate the hub a couple of mm and they will just tap into place.
IMG_5920.jpg


7. Hammer the stud a little into the wheel hub, again using light force just to get the stud started.
IMG_5921.jpg


8. Then with a tool I made, old wheel nut with top taken off and a larger washing, thread this onto the stud until tight to pull stud all the way through and then remove the hand made tool.
IMG_5922.jpg


9. New spacer and new studs show time!
IMG_5923.jpg


10. Nearly done!
IMG_5924.jpg


11. Comparison old and new studs, 15mm spacer, so 15mm longer studs.
IMG_5925.jpg


12. Finished!
IMG_5926.jpg


13. Notes use blue loctite on splash shield and caliper bolts, splash shield bolts are just nipped up, caliper bolts give them everything you got. Put wheel back on, tighten, let car down, torque wheels, go for drive, re-torque wheels! :)













Results!


Pictures speak volumes:

IMG_5931.jpg


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IMG_5936.jpg


IMG_5933.jpg



The results are perfect, exactly what I wanted, there is no poke and the wheels are as flush to the body work your going to get without having poke. Car now looks higher in the rear and no longer looks like the suspension is collapsing in on it self, really please with the results and I far prefer this type of spacer that just comes with longer studs.

Unfortunately Eibach 20mm and 25mm design seem to go back to the design of attaching to the hub using current studs and having new studs in place, it is perfectly safe but I far prefer the idea of there only being one set of bolts to tighten (wheel to hub) rather than two sets (spacer to hub, wheel to spacer).

Once the mud flaps arrive I shall install the front 23mm spacers I have!


Driving impressions!
Car has not changed in anyway, all I would say is the car has a touch more understeer and more grip in the rear, which is what you would expect when just widening the rear track by 30mm. This car as standard has slight understeer towards limits, now the understeer is a little more noticable. Once I fit the 23mm (46mm track widening) the cars balance should be a bit better than factory, with just very slight understeer, we shall see.

But for me these 15mm spacers give the perfect no poke look, they weigh less and are safer. A perfect fit for GT PP cars, only downside being they take longer to install. :)
 
Gibbo your passion on this is great to see. We are all petrol heads and frankly a mans passion on a project like this outweighs logic, not that it's illogical. Keep us up to speed, I for one am enjoying the progress as you add bits and stuff and watching it progress, though to be fair I'd be driving more than polishing it you Herbert.

Now get those wheels off and get some more suspension stuff on it.
 
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