New WC Loop

Measured fitting its 25mm
Ek and xspc are 19 and 20. Will most likely order 2 fittings for the cpu block.
In regards to T. I am trying to understand how to fit it along with a ball valve.
T or Y with single male 2 female would work i guess
Female female wont do much as i cant understand how to use the T fitting i bought. Its like a tubing split.
I can use it for valve but it will be hanging loose if that makes sense
Tubing and fittings are 13/10
 
Sadly i hate all other cases. Spent 2 hourslooking for something acceptable with no luck
I might have an idea though
As coolstream pe isnt made with space issue in mind it looks thick becouse casing is rased by silly amount
Done some digging and found SE range are 25mm thick
With apaches or worst case scenario - aeolus betas id be able to fit and cool the rad.
That opens up an option for a gpu and a second rad on the side
There is also this rad:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/magicool-g2-slim-radiator-16-fpi-240mm-wc-023-ma.html
I could possibly mount pump on the rear fan space
Is that a terrible idea?
I might consider fans on the outside, have some rad guards and fan guards
 
Guys quick question
Just picked up a 2.5l bottle of De-ionised water and a funnel for something silly like under 2 quid.
What do I need in the res, i saw some spiral metal bit also there are some additional drops. Compared to coolant, is that better - worse?
 
My mental plan is to have 240mm rad for cpu and another 240mm rad for gpu. As of now I run 2 AIOs inside the case with room to spare. They are basically h55's with around 27mm height
Already got Y 1to3 PWM splitters
Is the pump going to struggle with this? I am planning to run fans and pump on 100% speed
 
Pump/res:

18W DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1T Plus
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/laing-18w-ddc-pump-12v-ddc-1t-plus-wc-047-ac.html

EK-DDC Heatsink Housing
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-black-wc-484-ek.html

DDC Mini Water Tank
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-ddc-mini-water-tank-wc-306-bp.html

It says Laing, not sure how good that is
Phobya-wise, I have cpu block, UC-2 LT silver/nickel/plexi, also bought a solid black plexi if I fancy a change :D

As per post above replacing Coolstream PE with Magicool G2 Slim rad
Will be delivered tomorrow so hopefully something can be salvaged out of all this

Guys in regards to the draining
Where do I place that T splitter. I can screw it into the Rad and have one side of it as extra tubing to drain it later. But I don't understand how to plug/stop a tube
 
Was thinkin the same, 1 male 2 female 1/4
Ive started modding the case and found a way to land a pump freestanding
Smaller rad will come tomorrow thats when its going to be hit or miss by mm's
Will strip the case and build back up to see what i can do about wires
Becouse of the tight space rad will face towards rear as i cant mount pump otherwise.
Gpu will be on a single 120 up top or if i can close the case without things getting on the way its 240 side
This project is slightly more mental than i anticipated :)
 
Ill act as if i didnt see the bit about wced psus :)
I have managed to rebuild and rewire the case a little
Cpu block on
Also managed to drill holes for pump/res neatly, sprayed a little black satin over the holes as well
Tomorrow i might cry or if loads of things fall into place this is going to be an amazing wc itx
There is a sponge in the res, i assume its to prevent bubbles from forming whilst pouring coolant in
It doesnt take much room i dont think but keep or discard?
 
Will experiment with the sponge
Decided to exclude ball valve and go with res drain port instead, as it will be lowest point if tilted
Will all make sense once put together
I have measured tried all possible scenarios
Can only fit thin single 120 or thin dual 240 with single fan
Thick single rad isnt going to fit. Clearance from ram clips to top is 35mm
Tried to do an imaginary loop and can see i need 2 45 angle fittings as tubing bends easily
 
Ive managed to put it together









As mentioned, i'd need few 90 degree fittings and will be adding a 120 rad on top
So far everything fits perfectly and as mentioned with 1-2mm clearance :D
Placed a rubber piece on the psu where res might be touching it to decrease vibration
Replaced Res drain port with a G1/4 cap as this is what it is, drain port :D

Another dilemma I am having is the GPU clearance now
I have placed the rad onto the rubber padding and also I think it sits on 1-2mm of screw debris
So far so good, managed to cut a tiny incy bit of the front of the leg ( can barely notice ) to fit them back on with res screws sticking out
So far so good with extra fittings I can make it work every better
Going to be a VERY tight fit once its done but I think its worth it
Glad I decided to go with this case, hopefully id be able to perfect it in a similar way to my previous ITX project :D
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18692651

Should I go with Yate Loons? as they are 120x20 and not bad at all.
Can pickup a few off auction site very cheap
 
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Ive ditched the blue primochill fittings for the monsoon purple fittings to match coolant and I hated them a little bit :D
Stop cap is about 5mm bigger than the original cap. I can slide it in but taking the panel off I need to lift the bottom corner slightly then it comes off. Not a problem really
ITX cases yea, I love the idea of having meaty hardware in a tiny space and now that I experiment with WC might be able to go further
Drain port is fine, all closes and not in the way of anything. Glad ive came up with this plan to exclude valve from the process
No bubbles in the system as that pump is very good I think, filled loop in less than 5 mins. Hopefully doesn't leak :D
I can mount a thin rad at the top which can either be 120 or 240. In regards to the fans however they MUST go on the outside as ram clips prevent anything from happening. Might use that but not keen on the outside fans
Never used raises cables, have to look into that but highly unlikely as for the lack of room
What is the norm for the GPU block? single slot? then id be able to get away with it :D
Might consider Loons as it seems like a good idea for a bit more room
Plus I heard they weren't noisy and do a good job
 
Seems like there is not chance with fans on top of the rad even if I am able to make a little bit more room. Although if I get the 90 degree fittings for gpu, might be able to get away with it?

Riser cable is pcie3? or it doesn't matter as long as its x16?
Trying to think where I could hide a gpu :D
 
As I am planning this further:
90 degree fittings needs to be raised over the fans first, so I am looking at 27-30mm bit that rises and then goes for 90 degree turn. I cant really find anything, unless I go for a standard riser and add a 90 degree turn, or multi rotary which might do in this case
Ive ordered a pci-e ribbon cable to play around with
If I am going that route id need a lot more angled fittings
Thinking to order another 240 rad to go on the top
Things getting quiet claustrophobic at this point
Still cant make up my mind in regards to the gpu. 780ti can be had for under £200 with a block on it and I fancy that over 970.
Going to order more tubing and coolant :D
 
Something strange is going on
Tube that is going from pump to cpu I can feel vibration and assume liquid is moving as its full
The other tube that runs from cpu to rad had a massive gap with air in it and its not moving
The last tube which is rad to res is also full of air with no movement
Temps don't hit 50 even when running 3d app/games
What could this be?
blocked up loop? rad or cpu block?
 
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Can you feel the water flowing on the 2nd tubing? as in not the direct tubing that come out of the pump
As I can only feel the waterflow from pump to cpu block
Its like cpu block is actually blocked and doesn't let water through
There were massive air gaps in the loop I have managed to make it go away and all the tubes are now filled with no visible gaps or air bubbles
But there is not flow/water movement apart from the first tubing section
Pump is on full all the time so there is enough pressure to go around, its working because I can feel the flow of the first section/tubing directly from the pump
there is no gpu in the loop yet but I think the best thing is to drain/clean and refill
I am all out of ideas otherwise
 
I have done all that and still there were huge gaps in the tubing and so.. I've done this:



Decided to drain the loop. Never done it before so there were spills on the kitchen floor :D
I have opened a res drain and got rid of some liquid, closed it and then unscrewed cpu block port when there was no liquid either side
Basically simple process. Used de-ionised water on rad to clean and warm water for tubes
What I've done while draining is sip the coolant through a fine mesh to trap particles, dirt etc. I have then poured the mix back in the bottled and refilled the loop with it
Figured it wasn't there long so no harm done
I have shortened the tubing as well
I have then opened a cpu block and cleaned it, there was a lot of dirt and stuff, used a small plastic brush
As holes on the case would not line up with the rad, as the rad is 240 and the holes are for the 2 x 120mm fans with a spacing between them I drilled more holes and so now all fits
I have removed rubber padding from underneath and basically with that and tightened rad I managed to lower it a little so it doesn't get on the way of installing gpu
In regards to gpu I bought a pcie ribbon cable as we discussed and buying a 970 today
The only way I could fit the gpu is sideways with rear bolted to the case and front will be on the top of the PSU. As it comes with backplate ill lay it down onto a rubber padding
Didn't find a way to fit a rad+fan inside the case so fan will be on the outside
Not sure what size I am going for
 
To be honest I cant even tell I have flow but it is different and I can feel a tiny little bit of movement in the other 2 tube sections and 0 bubbles!
Was about to order 120mm rad but cutoff is 4pm for next day
I can see myself turning to acrylic tubing very soon as that would make the rig look amazing IF gpu falls where it should
Will hold fire for now until gpu actually as need to deal with that first
Trying to overcome the fact that one of the fans is going to be housed outside of the case. Trying to toy with the idea of removing mobo ram clips.. :D
Was gonna ask:
What it both of my rad are pulling air in
Both of the side panels are mesh
 
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Have another quick question
Basically I am trying to switch fans with rad so that fans are blowin through the rad, push instead of pull
Directly over the hole there are audio jacks for the mobo
The only thing that should fit is the L shape fitting which is 19mm
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-g-1-4-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter-matte-black-wc-275-bp.html

What I need to do then is use another L shape of the same type to direct the flow up and then use a raised L shape or rotaty:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...led-90-degrees-g1-4-inch-black-wc-734-ek.html

to go over the rad. Is there a simpler way to achieve this?
 
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That's what ive ordered. Few extentions few rotary 90 degree few of those low L fittings
Basically its around 20mm and that barrow/bits and another one which Ive ordered is alphacool, I hope that I am not wrong in this venture :D
I those those snake rotary fittings might work but no, only a direct low L will go there and its easy from there
I have installed 120mm rad on top:

As predicted it can only go that way and as calculated g1/4 rad slots missed the ram slots so yea, amazing!
Fan is going to be on the outside as I cant think of anything else yet:

Had to make some deep cuts in the fans casing as there were metal bits on top which didn't let me sit it down
 
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