New WC Loop

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Afternoon
Started a new WC loop, well, got the rad so far:
EK CoolStream 240 PE
For the cpu block was thinking of a XSPC raystorm
Not really sure about Res and a pump
Coolant is simple
Another thing is fittings which I have 0 clue about
Can someone help me out
Will this tubing be alright with the rad above?
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/primochill-primoflex-advanced-tubing-16-11-clear-wc-107-pm.html

Also which fittings would I need to use.
As of now loop will be for cpu only, as I need to get used to the idea first. Dropping gpu into it would be easy, once I have a general idea

Help :)
 
If you have the funds i recommend doing the gpu at the same time. Will save you the hassle of draining the loop and adding pipes.
 
From what I understand draining the loop is a b1tch :)
Will see which gpu rocks my boat and add it from the get go
Bought Phobya uc-2 cpu block
Only Res/Pump left.
Then the fittings which is the bit I dread the most :/
 
If you add a drain port at the lowest point in the system it makes draining really simple. also quick disconnects makes maintenance and hardware change easy.

I can swap out a new card on my system within 5 min using the QDC's
 
The tubing is fine, although personally I'd say go for 16/10 instead as it offers a better choice of fittings. Then simply choose the 16/10 compression fittings you like from here. You'll need 2 fittings per item, so 2 for rad, 2 for each block, 2 for pump etc then just imagine the loop in your head so you can add in any 90° or 45° fittings you're likely to need. For draining you'll need to either add a tap onto a spare radiator / reservoir port (if there's one low down) or add a splitter low down in the loop. It's also a good idea to put a plug in the end of the tap, just in case it leaks or is accidentally knocked during filling or general tinkering. Hope this helps and good luck with the build :)
 
I can recommend the XSPC EC6 coolant if you want something pour'n'go. I'd also recommend the clear, colourless variety...makes a lot less trouble when it ends up on the carpet!

Hi OJ. You can't just give him one opinion and make life simple and uncomplicated. THAT'S not how this game works! ;)
I personally prefer 13/10 as the walls are thinner and hence more flexible. As long as the ID (Inner Diameter) is around 10mm it's fine - you don't really make any significant gains going larger bore as the ID of a G1/4 fitting is around 10mm.
Personally I prefer Tygon E3603 tubing as it's more flexible so it's easier to get on and off the fittings. You don't end up pushing hard against your graphics card to get the hose on.

Fittings are largely down to what you like the look of and what your budget is. I'm fairly sure none of the fittings OCUK sell are bad. Bitspower look lovely but they're pricey. Alphacool are fairly budget (although there are cheaper) but some have complained of leaky swivel joints - not had any myself though. EK are a good balance between quality and price.

QDCs are brilliant but they're pricey and take up a fair amount of space. If you've got the room and the budget they're great.

A drain is also good but you're looking at about £25 by the time you're done. You can always disconnect a tube somewhere and hold both ends over a bucket. It doesn't start gushing out as fast as you think. Depends on your budget and your sense of perfectionism really. :D
 
Haha so very true, give it half hour and there'll probably be recommendations for every size of tubing and pretty much every type of compression fitting!

As Cenedd says a lot of it is down to budget really, as using top quality fittings it can get horrendously expensive VERY quickly, so always need to judge the trade off between quality / price and go for what suits your situation / needs best. Did my build using Monsoon fittings and was impressed with the quality. PrimoChill tubing fits absolutely bang on (tight on barb plus tight compression fittings, without being impossible to get on & off) and not a single drip from any of the 90° or 45° fittings :)
 
Up to you what to use. I always have used EK 16/10 fittings. They are great and are cheap aswell. Bitspower are probably the best quality but also expensive.

Drain I just have mine attached to a bottom rad with T fitting and valve. Plug on the back etc.

I get all my stuff direct from EK but you can get them from OCUK.

Regards to liquid again your preference. I have mayhems pastel in mine but have used EK pastel aswell. If you want colored go for it if not go clear. Just get a clear ready to go coolant with all inhibitors etc.

Pump again EK d5 or ddc with pump top cant go wrong there. I would go for a manual speed rather than PWM but thats just me.
 
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Guys not too much info, as I've mentioned, clueless about this whole process :D
So far what I've got is this:

Pump: 18W DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1T Plus
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/laing-18w-ddc-pump-12v-ddc-1t-plus-wc-047-ac.html

EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Black
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-black-wc-484-ek.html

Res: DDC Mini Water Tank
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-ddc-mini-water-tank-wc-306-bp.html

Rad: EK-CoolStream PE 240 Dual

As per tubing, should I go with 16/10?

And as per coolant, is this gonna do the job?
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-x1-uv-purple-premixed-watercooling-fluid-1l-wc-033-mh.html

In regards to fittings, from what I understand they all fit into the pump, res the same, just the other side, the tubing side is different?
Id need to get around 10 centre fittings?

Guys another question for the drain, how and with what do i make this happened? :D
 
Pump is good and adding the heatsink is a good idea too - not only aids cooling (which has otherwise been known to kill those pumps in rare circumstances) but also make it easier to mount it and decouple the vibrations (rubber feet reduce the noise).

I've not used that pump top res combo but at 85ml it is quite small. Recently had a 100ml res attached to an 18W DDC and had vortexing at full speed. If you're going to reduce the pump speed (something like an Aqua Computer PowerAdjust 3) then less of a problem.

Rad good for the CPU but if you want to add a GPU you may need larger/more rad.

You'll need two fittings per device - one in, one out. CPU, rad, pump makes a total of 6 fittings unless I've missed something.
Choose which fittings you like the look and/or price of and base your tubing size on that. The difference between 13/10 and 16/10 is only that the tubing wall is much thicker. This gives it a more industrial look which some love and some hate. It will also be less flexible sonwont go round corners as sharply - you can get around this issue with angled fittings (45 and 90 degree are the main ones although 30 and 60 degrees exist as well as dual/triple rotary snakes). The ID of both is the same so as much water will flow through both.

Drain needs a T or Y piece of some sort (add two fittings) and a tap. You'll need a male to male connection (or another two fittings) to connect the tap. You may also want a stop to block the end of the tap in case it either leaks slightly or you turn the tap accidentally. You can get various cube style 3-way or 4-way splitters and use a male to male coupler to connect it directly to a device like the pump.

Coolant: you may want to read the thread about Mayhem coolant on here that people have been having compatibility issues between that and the Primochill hosing. Either swap coolant or hosing as it sounds from Mayhem feedback like it may be less than optimal being made of PVC.
 
Thanks for a thorough explanation. Coolant-wise would that EK option be more suitable?
Ive decided to exclude gpu for now and add tge drain option. Will try to decide on tubing size today.
After which id need a y fitting, tap fitting and 6 central fittings
Could you explain the stop further?
So far:
2 central fittings info cpu block, 2 central fittings into pump/res, 2 central fittings into rad, folliwed by y splitter into tap?
 
Coolant: I'm not sure which EK coolant you mean but I believe some of them are made by Mayhems. Mayhems coolants are generally supposed to be good - I say "supposed" as I have never used them and I know there is some controversy currently.
Personally I would go for clear - and this is a personal thing. Mainly if it's colourless you aren't going to be massively irritated if you spill it on the carpet but also it's definitely not going to stain your tubing pink/purple/alien green so won't be a problem if you want to go coloured once you've got everything worked out. Other people love their pastels etc but I've always worried it'll settle out or bung up somewhere and I know that realistically I'm not going to be draining, cleaning and refilling every six months....more like two years when I have to upgrade something anyway.

Tubing: About the only thing in stock at OCUK is the Primochill and that appears to be what's at the heart of the Mayhems issue. If you want to go Mayhems coolant it may be worth staying away from Primochill tubing or anything PVC based which I think would rule out XSPC too. Have a look at this current thread and see what you think.

For what it's worth, I use EC6 Clear and Tygon E3603 tubing in 3/8 ID which is 12.7/9.5mm which is near enough 13/10 and works with the 13/10 EK, Alphacool and Koolance fittings in my rig. I know this combination works but I also know that Tygon isn't available from OCUK and is about £7/metre.

I like to have my tubing and my blocks clear so that I can see if something is gunking them up....but that's a trade off against style you might not want to make.

Stop: Something like this obviously adjusting style or colour to taste. Just means that if the tap is turned accidentally, or it leaks, the stop seals the end. When you want to drain, you take the stop off and then open the tap. Utterly unnecessary....until stuff happens.

Y-fitting: If you look they are all G1/4 female threaded and so are the taps. Cheapest is out of stock but something like this So you either need to treat the Y-piece as a device (like CPU) and buy four extra fittings (one for each 'arm' and one for the tap) or you can use something like this to connect Y to tap and even Y to rad.
You could alternatively use one of these cube-style T-pieces to connect onto the rad and then fittings off each side onto CPU and tap. Or tap on the male part and rad to pump on the 'through' connections.

You say "Central fitting" and I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean straight fitting? If so, straight fittings are fine provided your tubing doesn't go round too sharp a corner. You used to get 90° compression fittings but these days the fashion seems to be to have a 90° bend and then put the compression fitting of your choice on the end. This helps if you have to turn a sharp corner. Something like this with one of these screwed onto it.

Hope that's of some help. Difficult to recommend specifics when all the fittings always seem to be out of stock.
 
Thank you very much for all the input. T or Y splitter make sense now along with the stop
Will read on the coolant
Seems like i need to learn acrylic bending now :)
 
Right. Ive decided what to do and went for the following:
1/4" Thread High Profile Blanking Plug with Knurling : Black Nickel
Primochill G1/4" Thread Ghost Compr. Fitting 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD (10-13mm) Blue X 8
Phobya UC-2 LT Replacement Cover : Nylon (want to have clear and black option)
1/4" Thread Rotary T Piece for 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD (10-13mm) Tubing : Black Nickel
Mayhems Ultra Clear Water Cooling Tubing 3/8" 10mm ID 1/2" 13mm OD 3m

All of which cost me 26.65 on some mental discounts :D
Hopefully ive done everything right for 10/13mm tubing setup
Will order tap and coolant soon
In regards to coolant, is H2O distilled any good?
 
Just double check the Ghost fittings. Primochill do seem to do a Ghost fitting for flexible tube but OCUK only stock the version for acrylic tube.

Distilled or deionised are both fine to use but you'll need additives. You'll want a biocide (either silver kill coil or something like Mayhems biocide) and you may want an anti corrosion agent - it's more important with a mix of metals in blocks.
If you're using Mayhems tube, you should be fine to use Mayhems coolants. The issue - from my understanding - is that both Primochill and XSPC tubing has either plasticisers or PVC that is incompatible with something in Mayhems coolants.

Don't see a tap on that list. Not essential, you could just have a blanking plug on the T piece and hold it over a bucket. Depends on you level of perfectionism vs your budget (aka How much can I spend without the wife noticing?!).
 
Wanted to order phobya tap but seller back after 4th april. In the meantime will do just that, remove plug off t and off it goes.

So mayhems is fine to use? Hassle free compared to water with adittives and stuff?

My sole aim is to do a desent loop for 200 or under. So far so good :)
So far spent 115-120 and only gpu block left

Forgot to ask in regards to how much coolant i need for the above parts? Is 1L enough to test?
Also to drain, read that vinegar is used?
When filling, need a pin for psu in order to on/off it for a while
 
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