New WC Loop

I've not used any Mayhems coolant but if it's premixed it should be pour and go. A litre does most loops. A recent loop of CPU, GPU, 100ml res (small), double rad (240) and triple rad (360) was exactly a litre....so should be plenty for you.

If you're going to do GPU too you'll probably need more than just a 240 rad. Rule of thumb is 120 per component and none for loop so that'd be a 360 at min. More if you want to overclock of not have fans like jet aircraft.

You want to leak test everything first with no power connected to motherboard or anything. You can fill loop and just power pump from PSU. To turn PSU on without motherboard connected you can either get plugs that you connect to the ATX cable or short out pins with a paperclip - it's the same thing just that the special plug means you cannot short out the wrong pins!
Put kitchen towel by each joint. It's good for soaking up any leaks but also it helps show up and small drips.

You say vinegar to drain. No, sometimes it can be useful to flush out the crud from a new rad but most can be flushed out with tap water and then rinsed with deionised water (DI). You can get this at the supermarket in 2.5l or 5l containers for car batteries or ironing ( don't get perfumed ironing water, just DI!)
 
Getting rid of temp gpu and will only run cpu loop.
Ideally would want to leak-proof and then drain/rinse the loop. Ive seen those psu adaptors as i think its better than playin with paper clips :)
Will try and find DI water and order that mayhems bottle on sale, as i dont really care what its gonna be for test purpose
Want to try this in evga hadron, but youve mentioned 240 isnt gonna cut it
Stock 4570+970 on push pull fans perhaps? Or still not enough?
 
Hopefully someone else can answer your rad question. I've only ever had more rads or weird rads. My main aim is silence so more/bigger rads and slow fans works nicely. The 240+360 I did recently we both thick rads (60mm) and temps were excellent with and Intel 6700K and 980Ti at stock. I'm afraid I don't have much experience with how little rad you can get away with. In theory rads become more efficient as coolant temp goes up but I suspect you'll have problems with just a medium 240.
Anyone else care to comment?
 
You'd want more than a 240 to run both the CPU and GPU, but it should work OK if only for CPU. As a guide I'm running a fat (60mm) 360 plus a fat 240 X-Flow to cool a 6700k & 980Ti, as the original setup of fat 240 & slimline 360 X-Flow wasn't cutting it. You could probably get away with running both on a 60mm thick 360 so long as you don't mind a bit of noise when gaming, as you'd need the fans going pretty fast to keep it cool.

The other thing is a GPU block is a lot more efficient at transferring heat than a CPU block, so even if the CPU is at 60°C and the GPU is only at 40°C, the GPU will be putting more heat into the system. When I ran the system with a thin 360 & 240 X-Flow the component temperatures were good, but the problem was the water temperature which was hitting 45°C+ unless the fans were cranked up loud.

Hope this helps :)
 
Trying to comeup with something to stay within itx limits. Might try 2x 240 slim rads in cougar qbx. Might be possible with case on the side with fans outside the case. Would look mental but thats a start
Thank you for all the input guys
 
Most of the parts have now arrived
Rad, CPU block, pipes, coolant, Pump & Res
Just waiting for fittings which should come today
Wanted to ask if there is a particular way/order to lay it out?
Something to go higher or lower if possible?
Also how the hell do you attach a pump/res to the case, should it be free stranding?
Or take a drill out and be creative?
 
Order doesn't really matter so long as you've got the reservoir directly before the pump, for the rest just go with whatever is easiest / looks best.

Yeah, need to make a couple of holes to mount the pump. You should have a sticker included to use as a guide for drilling the holes, which makes life a bit easier :)

Only thing that matter when it comes to placement in the case is the drainage tap, which should be as low down as possible. Oh yes, and obviously make sure you leave enough room to be able to fill the reservoir!

Hope this helps, and good luck :)
 
Don't really have the tap itself but will have the T with a plug which will be something similar until I add the gpu into the cycle. Would like to try and drain before I move on :)
From what I understand its ideal for pump/res to be upright?
Have couple of holes in front from where I removed the front shield, might zip tie for now until I come up with a real solution :D
Cougar QBX
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cougar-qbx-mini-itx-cube-chassis-black-ca-013-cu.html
Can actually fit 2 240mm thin rad with either push or pull. On the bottom and the side shielding
Might stick to the NZXT Kraken G10 for now to go on the side and get the feel as I think gpu vs bottom rad/fans might be a problem
Cant wait to give this a go. Acrylic tubing will soon to follow if I find the way to make it work
Would have to change the case as ive switched a few ITX's before settling on this one :D
This build will look dirty as most things are different colour but not really after the looks, just to make sure I can make it function :D
 
It will make life easier keeping the reservoir upright but they work fine horizontal, it just makes it more of a pain to fill & bleed. Fair play if you manage a neat build in that case though, always impressed with how people fit proper watercooling loops into such tight cases. I've got an Enthoo Evolv ATX and that was tight enough for my setup / skill level! If it all gets a bit too tight you could always go full Mad Max on it like Cenedd has :D
 
A lot of reservoirs can be mounted sideways but because the 'out' hole is on the bottom it does limit the amount of fluid that can come out of the res before flow stops and the rest is trapped there - it effectively makes your res smaller.

Pump can often be mounted at different angles but you might find that it's not designed to be mounted fully upside down. It's often easier to mount the right way up if it has proper legs though.
 
Just had to Google that... OMG! After seeing this you're definitely going to have to add another beastly rad to the other side of the case :D
Complete_Front.jpg
 
That's the one. I've got 8 of them on the side of my current rig - it's where I started. Mine are the older variety with 10/8 tubing and metal T pieces that were a joy to connect up. I think the newer plastic connectors may be higher bore to be fair but I'd estimate my 8 to be roughly equivalent to a thick 240 rad...so think I'll stick with the Mo-Ra!
</threadjack> ;)
 
Guys Ive got a dilemma.
Apparently Pascal is around the corner with the presentation takin place today
Is it worth buying Maxwell now? I can wait, that's not really a problem
Id say prices might drop in a month or 2
 
If you're waiting on a price drop for the existing once the new comes out you might be ok. If you're waiting for the new to come out, have the problems ironed out and be affordable you're in for a longer wait! Release dates often seem to be delayed and then there are supply issues so I suspect you won't see a price drop until Pascal is properly established. You often find retailers not price dropping their existing stock too and only price dropping the new stock they'll have bought at reduced price.
Depends how long you're willing to wait really.
 
That's a tough one to call really, as there's never a firm release date and as Cenedd pointed out, it's never easy to predict how long after release it will be before retailers start dropping the price. In the end it's just a question of how long you're willing to wait not knowing when the price will drop and by how much. I'm an impatient bugger so just threw a 980Ti into mine, but guessing you could probably save a fair bit if you're willing to wait a few months...
 
Not going after pascal thats for sure. Only thing i play now and again is wot and that runs on cpu
Prices will drop on mm as 980 went for 230 few days back
Personally for me i just want wc loop but that can be without gpu for now
Think thats the route am takin unless there is something tempting
Fittings should arrive today and am ready to flood the case :)
 
That could be the best plan if you're not that desperate for a new GPU, and as long as you're using soft tubing rather than hardline it's not difficult to drop a GPU into the loop at a later date. It's a bit time consuming having to empty, refill & bleed the loop again but far better than it would be if the original loop is done in hardline!
 
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