New WC Loop

Was laying out components and trying fittings on. I am unable to screw in a second fitting into cpu block as the ring around the fitting is too big.
Wow didnt expect to run into this
Need to order 2 fittings for cpu block which will fit, xspc perhaps
Another problem, T fitting is 1/4 bottom and fitting for tubing both sides. How do i use that if my screw cap is 1/4 as well, both male basically
Grrrrr
 
Just ran into another problem
Rad i have is thicker than expected.
Therefore no fans can be mounted and gpu is a big cuestion mark. Unless its bare or with a thin wc block
Its either time to look for a thinner rad or get a case that will accommodate all of the above
Psu prevents pump mount and takes loads of room
Hadron might still be a possibility
 
Bigger case! :D
Someone mentioned that the XSPC coin slot fittings can destroy the threads in a block.
What size tubing are you using? The 13/10 fittings tend to have a diameter (of the compression ring) of between 18 and 19mm. Larger tubing is going to have larger diameter rings and if the ports are too close together on the block there's not a lot you can do. You might be able to screw a couple (or even one) of 45 degree fittings on first. That would bring the fittings further apart and may be beneficial for pointing towards the next connection point anyway.

Your T piece is compression fitting on both arms of the T and G1/4 male on the bottom? Unusual but I've seen something like it before. You can get a female to female extension (aka a bushing) but it will add length - being an extension and all.
 
Measured fitting its 25mm
Ek and xspc are 19 and 20. Will most likely order 2 fittings for the cpu block.
In regards to T. I am trying to understand how to fit it along with a ball valve.
T or Y with single male 2 female would work i guess
Female female wont do much as i cant understand how to use the T fitting i bought. Its like a tubing split.
I can use it for valve but it will be hanging loose if that makes sense
Tubing and fittings are 13/10
 
Fractal Design S will take a 360 thick (60mm at least) in front and a 240 at top 60mm thick provided your RAM isn't too high a profile. Team Extreme is too high but G.Skill was fine. This is the case I built in for a friend that you can see in my log on page 2.

The Enthoo Evolv ATX is the one that OJ46 built in. You can check out his rad specs in his log. Note that he changed them later so read to the end.

Parvum look good too.
 
Sadly i hate all other cases. Spent 2 hourslooking for something acceptable with no luck
I might have an idea though
As coolstream pe isnt made with space issue in mind it looks thick becouse casing is rased by silly amount
Done some digging and found SE range are 25mm thick
With apaches or worst case scenario - aeolus betas id be able to fit and cool the rad.
That opens up an option for a gpu and a second rad on the side
There is also this rad:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/magicool-g2-slim-radiator-16-fpi-240mm-wc-023-ma.html
I could possibly mount pump on the rear fan space
Is that a terrible idea?
I might consider fans on the outside, have some rad guards and fan guards
 
Guys quick question
Just picked up a 2.5l bottle of De-ionised water and a funnel for something silly like under 2 quid.
What do I need in the res, i saw some spiral metal bit also there are some additional drops. Compared to coolant, is that better - worse?
 
With DI water you'll need to add a drop or 2 of biocide, then add another drop every couple of months. The spiral metal you see is silver coil, which is also used to stop growth in the system. This should be added in the loop away from the pump, if the coil is place in the res there's a chance it'll be drawn into the pump and wreck it. I used one of these in mine, does the same job as a coil but without the risk of it moving / damaging anything. All in all, DI water plus biocide seems to give a lot less issues than some of the premix fluids, so go for it!

With regard to the thinner radiators, bear in mind that they offer far less cooling capacity than 'full fat' radiators. It would be fine for cooling the CPU but I seriously doubt it would cope with a GPU added to the loop. A rough general rule is 120mm per block plus 120mm spare, so a 'proper' 360mm rad for CPU + GPU. A thin 240mm could be pushing it a bit far...
 
My mental plan is to have 240mm rad for cpu and another 240mm rad for gpu. As of now I run 2 AIOs inside the case with room to spare. They are basically h55's with around 27mm height
Already got Y 1to3 PWM splitters
Is the pump going to struggle with this? I am planning to run fans and pump on 100% speed
 
What pump did you go for after? You should be able to run the pump a lot slower than that, there's no real gain in running it fast and the high pitched noise can get VERY annoying. As a rough guide I'm using a D5 pump with CPU, GPU, 360mm x 60mm rad & 240 x 65mm X-Flow rad and the pump is currently set at 55%. So assuming it's a D5 then somewhere around the 50% would be plenty fast enough, for DDC's you'd have to give Cenedd a shout as I've never used one.
 
Don't know about the Phyobia pump but Phyobia stuff I've played with has been fairly cheap in terms of quality - but also in price so it's not all bad. FWIW an 18W DDC pushes over 200l/h through a fat 360 and fat 240 x-flow as well as gpu and cpu blocks.
 
My DDC on full whack is a bit loud but I suspect it's partly age. Had it at least 5 years and some of that it was abused with overly high coolant temps. I run mine at about 8.2V currently (connected to an Aquaero 6) but have previously run it at 7V off a cable mod and it was fine. Much quieter at that speed - probably around 50% ish. Useful to be able to turn it up to full power occasionally to blast the air through - my current loop was not thought out to be easily bled and tends to trap air.
Rubber mounting feet help reduce the noise considerably as it stops he vibration being transmitted into the case which amplifies it.
 
Pump/res:

18W DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1T Plus
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/laing-18w-ddc-pump-12v-ddc-1t-plus-wc-047-ac.html

EK-DDC Heatsink Housing
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-black-wc-484-ek.html

DDC Mini Water Tank
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-ddc-mini-water-tank-wc-306-bp.html

It says Laing, not sure how good that is
Phobya-wise, I have cpu block, UC-2 LT silver/nickel/plexi, also bought a solid black plexi if I fancy a change :D

As per post above replacing Coolstream PE with Magicool G2 Slim rad
Will be delivered tomorrow so hopefully something can be salvaged out of all this

Guys in regards to the draining
Where do I place that T splitter. I can screw it into the Rad and have one side of it as extra tubing to drain it later. But I don't understand how to plug/stop a tube
 
Laing make the DDC pump. One of those will be fine for pretty much whatever. The heatsink has rubber feet so you can screw it down somewhere

T piece should go as low as possible so you can drain most of the loop. You may be best to order a different one that is G1/4 all round. Otherwise you'd need to find a way of stopping a tube. Probably cheapest to just buy a different T to be honest.
 
Was thinkin the same, 1 male 2 female 1/4
Ive started modding the case and found a way to land a pump freestanding
Smaller rad will come tomorrow thats when its going to be hit or miss by mm's
Will strip the case and build back up to see what i can do about wires
Becouse of the tight space rad will face towards rear as i cant mount pump otherwise.
Gpu will be on a single 120 up top or if i can close the case without things getting on the way its 240 side
This project is slightly more mental than i anticipated :)
 
You might find it easier to get hold of a T (or a Y or a cube) with all female G1/4 threads. Then you can either screw a compression fitting in or a stop.
That said, Bitspower do a cube style with one male rotary thread and two (or more) female threads...but it will be Bitspower pricing :D

Watercooling not properly mental until you're talking watercooled PSUs! :D
 
Ill act as if i didnt see the bit about wced psus :)
I have managed to rebuild and rewire the case a little
Cpu block on
Also managed to drill holes for pump/res neatly, sprayed a little black satin over the holes as well
Tomorrow i might cry or if loads of things fall into place this is going to be an amazing wc itx
There is a sponge in the res, i assume its to prevent bubbles from forming whilst pouring coolant in
It doesnt take much room i dont think but keep or discard?
 
It'll be an anti vortex sponge. The idea is to stop the contents of your res forming a vortex (like when you pull the plug on a bath) and allow air to be drawn in. With such a small res and a powerful pump you may find it is a necessity...but try it both ways and see what happens. Worst case you have to stop the pump and put it in.
 
in my evolv itx (very small and tight to build in wasnt the greatest idea being my first time watercooling) i have 2 x 240mm radiators. 1 is the middle sized EKWB and the other is the slimest sized EKWB. could only fit 3 fans so i think it works out closer to 360mm rad space cooling. my temps are fine. pump is on full and i can barely hear it.

cpu - maxes out at 57C
gpu - maxes out at <50C

you will be fine with any radiators over 20mm thiick. my slimest is 26mm which is the one that has 2 fans on.
 
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