A bit slow in the ordering - I thought it would be good to create a BOM project in mouser then give it a day to recheck. The work got in the way, 15h day yesterday etc.
I've been looking at a number of areas:
* use of bi-polar caps (50V) for 330uF output caps (the cathode follower shouldn't get above 20V.. shouldn't!) but these are a matter of pence. vs a 450V Polypropylene 330uF cap being £45 each. If I blow up one it's not going to matter during the initial testing. Then I can order the PP caps.
Edit: more info regarding capacitors: https://www.analog.com/en/analog-dialogue/articles/capacitance-and-capacitors.html
So in reality the higher the frequency it's likely to result in the bi-polar electrolytics causing some roll of but perhaps not in audio frequencies.
* power inrush - most vacuum tubes are a matter of low capacitance ~70uF 450V etc due to vaccum tube rectifiers only do mA. OTL.. well that's 450V 6000uF to get a nice 1V peak-to-peak ripple (£45) and the 12V heater line gets a res cap of 10,000uF 63V in there to kill any noise.
So that's a butt load of capacitance. Plan on 450J of energy in a second is 440W. Inrush is a good 50A for the first cycle in modelling. So I'm trying different ideas to reduce the current flow. A set of switched 50W resistors in series that are switched out sequentially is the lowest tech approach. A better way would be to use a switched PWM supply to limit inrush - however that requires a lot more tech. All the other ways result in massive generation of heat (100W+) and voltage drop during normal operation.
* negative grid bias - this is easy todo by grounding the grid to 0V then supplying +24V through a 1Meg resistor to the cathode. The result is a -24V grid so the valve powering up doesn't attempt to randomly switch on at full current - not good for your headphones with a massive current/voltage spike.
* mute - muting with switch causes the output cap to hold a DC charge.. which when you plug in or come off mute goes POP with a big chunk of DC through the headphones.. so to combat this the mute button has a high wattage 32ohm resistor that provides a drain during mute. Coming off mute then doesn't have a massive cap build up.
I've been looking at a number of areas:
* use of bi-polar caps (50V) for 330uF output caps (the cathode follower shouldn't get above 20V.. shouldn't!) but these are a matter of pence. vs a 450V Polypropylene 330uF cap being £45 each. If I blow up one it's not going to matter during the initial testing. Then I can order the PP caps.
Edit: more info regarding capacitors: https://www.analog.com/en/analog-dialogue/articles/capacitance-and-capacitors.html
So in reality the higher the frequency it's likely to result in the bi-polar electrolytics causing some roll of but perhaps not in audio frequencies.
* power inrush - most vacuum tubes are a matter of low capacitance ~70uF 450V etc due to vaccum tube rectifiers only do mA. OTL.. well that's 450V 6000uF to get a nice 1V peak-to-peak ripple (£45) and the 12V heater line gets a res cap of 10,000uF 63V in there to kill any noise.
So that's a butt load of capacitance. Plan on 450J of energy in a second is 440W. Inrush is a good 50A for the first cycle in modelling. So I'm trying different ideas to reduce the current flow. A set of switched 50W resistors in series that are switched out sequentially is the lowest tech approach. A better way would be to use a switched PWM supply to limit inrush - however that requires a lot more tech. All the other ways result in massive generation of heat (100W+) and voltage drop during normal operation.
* negative grid bias - this is easy todo by grounding the grid to 0V then supplying +24V through a 1Meg resistor to the cathode. The result is a -24V grid so the valve powering up doesn't attempt to randomly switch on at full current - not good for your headphones with a massive current/voltage spike.
* mute - muting with switch causes the output cap to hold a DC charge.. which when you plug in or come off mute goes POP with a big chunk of DC through the headphones.. so to combat this the mute button has a high wattage 32ohm resistor that provides a drain during mute. Coming off mute then doesn't have a massive cap build up.
Last edited: