Obvious Things That You Have Just Realised.

I always wondered why something was a damp squid when it disappoints or fails to excite. Because clearly a squid is always damp. So this isn't really an obvious realisation but it's not squid, it's actually a damp squib which is a form of firework or explosive.
 
A lot to do with voltage. US voltage is 110V so not as dangerous.

Its not the volts that kill you its the amps.

Walking on nylon carpet can produce 20,000 volts in static electricity but virtually 0 amps.

Its not the volts its the push that can take you out fast.
 
Its not the volts that kill you its the amps.

Walking on nylon carpet can produce 20,000 volts in static electricity but virtually 0 amps.

Its not the volts its the push that can take you out fast.

110v centre tapped to earth is much safer than 230v. That's why the system is in use on construction sites.
 
Its not the volts that kill you its the amps.

Walking on nylon carpet can produce 20,000 volts in static electricity but virtually 0 amps.

Its not the volts its the push that can take you out fast.

Unless I'm reading your statement completely wrong, using a 1500watt heater on the 110v system draws
13.6 amps while using a 1500 watt heater on the 240v system draws a mere 6.25 amps, thus the UK system is safer amp wise.
 
If you actually look it up, its a 110v transformer on a construction site is dual phase so it theoretically only 55volts per channel.

It can still sing a bit but not as much as 240v, even if that was phased it would be 120v.
 
Its not the volts that kill you its the amps.

Walking on nylon carpet can produce 20,000 volts in static electricity but virtually 0 amps.

Its not the volts its the push that can take you out fast.


I=v/r

Your skin is very resitive, you need a fairly high voltage to make a suitable current flow to kill you.

This is why the sockets in your bathroom are center tapped so that the effective voltage to ground is only half the output.

An ordinary AA battery can put out >1amp whoch is more than enough to kill you but sticking one in your mouth isnt suicide.


It takes both current and the voltage to drive it to kill you
 
What my conception of electricity is that volts are the straw so to say and amps are the motorways of electricity.

More lanes/amps more damage so to say.

I could be and probably are wrong but its just my idea about electricity.
 
What my conception of electricity is that volts are the straw so to say and amps are the motorways of electricity.

More lanes/amps more damage so to say.

I could be and probably are wrong but its just my idea about electricity.


I=v/r


So the current drawn is equal to the voltage divided by resitanfe skin is very resistive, so you need a big voltage to get that I to 0m5 or higher across the heart which is where its legthal.

https://qph.ec.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-f991cd84197c52e4f8d3b88aed909c04.webp

A cool little image that shows the current flow across various parts of the body.


110v hand to foot draws 0.25amp so shouldn' kill you but gonna hurt like ****
 
What my conception of electricity is that volts are the straw so to say and amps are the motorways of electricity.

More lanes/amps more damage so to say.

I could be and probably are wrong but its just my idea about electricity.


Current is the amount of flow voltage is the driving force of that flow.

If you think of a pipe with water running down it current is the amount of water voltage is how steep the pipe is.

But analogies are always ham fisted when trying to see real-orld effects that' where the maths better explains it.
 
I=v/r


So the current drawn is equal to the voltage divided by resitanfe skin is very resistive, so you need a big voltage to get that I to 0m5 or higher across the heart which is where its legthal.

https://qph.ec.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-f991cd84197c52e4f8d3b88aed909c04.webp

A cool little image that shows the current flow across various parts of the body.


110v hand to foot draws 0.25amp so shouldn' kill you but gonna hurt like ****

Am not downloading images sorry.

I have had a serious belt from a compound miter saw at 110v on a site. Yes it bloody hurts like hell.

I am ok with anything at 13amps and below but anything over that just nope. Saying that I installed a 45amp 6kw hob, am not even an a electrician. :p
 
I am ok with anything at 13amps and below but anything over that just nope. Saying that I installed a 45amp 6kw hob, am not even an a electrician. :p

We know you're not electrician because you shouldn't be wiring 6kw hobs to 45A circuits.
 
a0xJKJR.png
 
Breakfast = Breaking the fast - found that out at the age of 40yrs old :eek:

pancakes were cakes you made in a pan.

I want my, I want my, I want my MTV - this is to the tune of "Don't Stand So Close To Me.

will.I.am is William - i knew that, but Flo Rida = Florida!
 
Last edited:
Wrong you need at least 6kw, a 13amp main cannot do over 3.5kw tops.

You don't need "at least 6kW" and there is no such thing as "a 13A main" circuit in UK itchy... :D

You need to understand what you are protecting. A circuit breaker is designed to protect the circuit from damage caused by excess current from an overload. That's why protective devices in your consumer unit have amperage value - when the current within the circuit exceeds that value we expect the circuit breaker to react accordingly and aptly to its name - break - ie. disconnect power to the circuit.
A 6kW cooking appliance in a super unlikely scenario of all four hobs continuously blasting away at 100% for prolonged period of time is expected to draw no more than what - 25-26A? Furthermore, because you will never cook on all four hobs at full blast, a diversity factor allows us to speculate that your hob during every day use is unlikely to exceed 20A maximum load at any point.
So itchy - what scenario on a circuit serving 6kW appliance are you expecting to protect with a 45A circuit breaker?

In the spirit of the topic - "obvious things to be realised" - let's also clarify this 13A value itchy mentioned. The only 13A protective device commonly used in UK is the little fuse in our plugs. Not just 13A - as we all know you can find 10A, 5A, 3A in those plugs as well. The fuse in a plug is not there to protect your appliance (not as a priority or by design anyway). And it's not there to protect the rest of the installation from a malfunctioning appliance. It's there solely to protect cable cord of the appliance (from melting insulation away and giving you a shock or setting itself on fire) in an event of overload in the circuit. Due to ingenious post war design socket circuits in Britain are often wired as a ring circuit - start from MCB->socket->socket->back to MCB rather than typical to the rest of Europe radial (designed to be one way serial circuit running from the first socket to the last). Due to continuous popularity of RFC (ring final circuits), the wiring typically found in our homes and offices can deliver up to 32A. Which is far more current than a typical cord supplied with an appliance could possibly handle. And so a means of disconnecting those puny cords from the supply in the event of failure was designed into British plug.

People (often in trade) don't always understand what's protecting what, and for example use 13A plugs, without changing fuse accordingly, with cords that can't even handle 13A. Here's what such "failure event" looks like (30A overload through 0.5mm2 flex cable with 3A rating, made in PRC 13A fuse didn't disconnect):
burning_boilers_small.jpg
 
Last edited:
A mate pointed out the arrow which resides within the words FedEx and now it's all I bloomin' see when they go by.
Oh and another mate showed me how I can lock the steering on my motorbike after I complained the lock position on the ignition 'didn't do anything'. Oh dear.
Screen_Shot_2018-05-19_at_01.36.02.png
 
If you actually look it up, its a 110v transformer on a construction site is dual phase so it theoretically only 55volts per channel.

Channel? What are you on about?

A 110v transformer is centre tapped to earth which means short circuit voltage between line and earth is 55v. That's why they're safer, and I didn't need to look that up as I've been an electrician for 20 odd years.

Having said all that, I don't have a PhD in OcUK-GD, so I'm probably about to be schooled on the subject by a professional stoner. :p
 
Am not downloading images sorry.

I have had a serious belt from a compound miter saw at 110v on a site. Yes it bloody hurts like hell.

I am ok with anything at 13amps and below but anything over that just nope. Saying that I installed a 45amp 6kw hob, am not even an a electrician. :p


You don' have to download it its just the direct link cause if I out it in mirage tags its not linking lol.


When did you instal the hob as you'e possibly just completley invalidated your house insurnace
 
When did you instal the hob as you'e possibly just completley invalidated your house insurnace

About 10 years ago and its still going strong. I used 6mm2 cable to install it. ;)

As for people saying it should be 26 to 30 amp, they have not tried dealing with an old house, when all you have is 5,10,25,45 amp fuse board.

Its old and the board does need changing as its the old wire between contacts script.

The picture posted above is due to bad contacts and arcing, I have seen that before that's why I never use double adapters and always make sure my connections are solid.
 
Back
Top Bottom