OcUK & Cutters Rolling Road Day 19 @ Powerstation (Tewksbury) - Saturday April 25th 2015!!

[Gibbo]

Gibbo I made a little video clip to make you feel better
This is what a motor which has a spun big end sounds like..

In fairness 2JZ (no ****) is a sturdy unit, I drove it like that for 10k miles without a problem

Yeah makes me feel better, mate just took a listen and said his M3 sounds the same from cold, trying to get a mechanic mate come take a listen with a scope before I risk actually driving it again.

But the lose sensor was certainly cause the horrible gravel/rattle type sound when revs dropped. But I just remember when I started it last night for the first RAC guy it did sound quite knocky, but when it came of the truck it sounded fine and it seems fine now.

Problem is I am now paranoid.

 

[Gibbo]

Do you guys think its a good idea to drop the oil and see if I can see what looks like any metal fragments/glitter/tinsel almost in appearance in the oil?

I guess if not I can just put the oil back in.

 

[Gibbo]

Gibbo when was your car built, what was the exact production date?

Feb 2002 and it did have the rod bearing recall as I checked.

I think the oil filter tells the story:

The oil which came out the pan was relatively clean, hardly any glitter in it, but look at what ran out the filter, looks very glittery and unless I am wrong I suspect that is metal shavings?

I guess now its a case of get the bottom end of and just hope one of the shells have not spun.....

 

[Gibbo]

The above picture doesn't look to satisfying. But what is realistically going to happen if you leave this suspected problem? It'll only get a louder (if it does at all). If it does, then proceed to strip down, but I wouldn't go blazing in with a strip down if it's just light tapping, a lot of bmw's do this especially at cold.

Point this this oil and filter is just a week old, I think all that glitter (metal fragments) clearly shows something is not happy.

So I think I strip it as far as I can, if I get stuck recover to local garage and hope and keep fingers crossed a shell is not spun and that putting in new bolts, shells and an oil pump will fix it.

 

[Gibbo]

Gibbo do you have the results for the day?

I got them all, if someone would be happy to post them all up would be great as I am a little pre-occupied with pulling an M3 to bits.....

Whoever wants to do it, drop me your email as a reply and I shall email you the graphs.

 

[Gibbo]

If that's got sparkle bits in the oil a week on, I certainly would not want to carry on using it!

As Traffic Warden says, plenty of BMW's make a racket from cold, my 530 certainly isn't silent when listened to close up, but it's not dropping swarf though....

On BMW forum guy has confirmed that glitter is bearing material for sure. Now to strip and hope none of them are spun, keeping fingers crossed.

 

[Gibbo]

No problem fella, yea it is a bit manic during the day I'm afraid.
Appreciated the hello and hand shake.


Gibbo, the teltale signs are usually better viewed in the bottom of the sump but as seen in the filter already, it doesn't bode well.
Lets hope we caught it early.

Yep, trying to dissemble it now, but the mechanic who did the clutch must be superman, can't get the bell housing bolts undone and starting to strip them, oh my days. Why people over-tighten bolts so much.

 

[Gibbo]

Gibbo I have message you with the pas ride video link just for ref

The drive to the pub was at totally sensible speeds and nobody revved beyond 3krpm, fact.

Post it up mate, sounds lovely, need to be rocking that sound again soon.

 

[Gibbo]

bet he had new airgun or something....


on other BnQ visit today for some stuff

sorted my bumper air catch finally normal air feed not pointing twards ground. Bet that killed few horses lol upgrade from 60mm to 100mm LOL

new B&Q car stands 1.6 each called Bricks From those car wont slide of like from halsfords Axle Stands almost did but saved it with spare wheel had hearth attack there. Not good for crapy surface. Plus long bar. I got plan and hope to rise my front left Apexi by around 1cm. After loosing weight my weight settup got messed up as there is not enough weight pushing front right side of car LOL. So car on bricks spraying and banging every day waiting for coilover spanners cause lost ones i had :/

I take no chances, mine is under 2 axle stands (only front jacked up), with 2 back axle stands and there is also still a jack under there as well.

 

[Gibbo]

I want that carbon airbox still!

But not at the price they go for

Here's the passenger ride video:

It evens looks quick on a video, got I hope I can fix it easily, such a nice day today and could not drive it or the 911 as spent most the day underneath the M3.

 

[Gibbo]

Gibbo (sorry been busy all day so only just seen the vids and pics).

You really need to either strip the engine down, and get everything cleaned out, or find a way to flush all the oil ways through (including crank journals) as you can't be sure the oil filter caught all the debis (oil coolers can be a bitch for storing debris too).

Last thing you want to do, is fit new shells only for there to be some crap stuck somewhere that will cause more damage when you get it running again.

Well removing and dismantling engine is beyond me or certainly what I can do in driveway with the tools I have.

I guess for now need to inspect the shells and take it from there. Depending on what oil coolers cost I could always look at changing that out too and simply put it all back together, let it run for 10-20 mins and then inspect the filter and see what's cracking off.

 

[Gibbo]

Hi there

Managed to get the bolts of the bell housing which were giving me trouble after a visit to Halfords and buying some E-bit sockets.

Local Jaguar specialist who does most the work on my cars have very kindly loaned me their engine beam/support bar which works a treat:

Gonna get everything I need to undo pretty much un-done now so when parts arrive I can get in and out nice and easy.

Also purchased several cans of brake cleaner, so going to take the rocker covers off and go crazy and spray brake cleaner through the engine, plug holes etc in a hope that should there be any debris that the filter did not catch a liberal spraying with brake cleaner will help shift it.

Once the bottom end is of I shall go mad again with brake cleaner. Then once new shells are in and its back together I am going to put some Shell Synthetic 10W-40 in and a new filter as its only £20 for 6l, let the car idle for 20 minutes unless I hear anything that don't sound good and re-check the filter. Then drop the oil and put the correct 10W-60 in on the basis there is nothing untoward in the filter.

 

[Gibbo]

Gibbo you don't mess around do you, straight in there the very next day!

Well just getting it all apart or at least ready so when the parts arrive I can get in there very quickly as on jobs like this a single bolt removal can take 30 minutes if its stubborn or in an awkward place. Plus at least at the moment I can full on attack the engine internals with brake cleaner to flush/clean the engine as much as possible.

 

[Gibbo]

Might be worth getting hold of a good quality magnetic sump plug Gibbo?

Unfortunately I don't think bearing material is magnetic, I could be wrong but I do not think it is.....

 

[Gibbo]

Seems like we're both having the same job done and then some, mine is down at Redish-motorsport for:

24x Worn cam follower fingers (replaced with Schrick DLC).
Both camshafts being replaced with Schrick items.
Beisan vanos rebuild (one exhaust hub tab broken).
Head gasket whilst head is off for above.
Oil pump replacement as producing slightly low pressure.

Fingers crossed the bearing shells are good on mine, they are looking at them today

Neil

Seriously whilst its apart buddy and for how little they cost get them to throw in treated shells and ARP bolts. Then should you ever decide to go crazy with cams your bottom end is safe for some higher RPM.

Sounds to me though like yours is going to be a lot more expensive.

My cost so far is £60 on some new tools and brake cleaner. Of course more expense to come and no doubt lots of money in beer for those who give me a hand.


P.S. Why does yours need all that doing, did something break and what mileage on the engine?

 

[Gibbo]

Gibbo if you're plan is to pull the engine then doing it with the gearbox attached is massively easier you know, unless the SMG causes an issue with that I guess.

Leaving engine in situ and supporting its weight on an engine support bar that local garage have loaned to me.

So plan is drop subframe, steering rack etc. Get the sump off and inspect shells.

Then a case of going crazy with brake cleaner and cleaning everything like crazy from underneath, then remove rocker cover gasket and pour brake cleaner over entire engine, down plug holes, down filter housing etc and let it all drain out in a hope that should their be any debris the filter did not catch that will clean it. Then fit new shells and bolts.

Then pour engine oil over everything, let it drain. Put all back together, fill with Shell Helix 10-40W synth as its cheap and thinner, let car idle for 20 minutes. Re-inspect filter and drop that oil and then fill with correct Castrol 10-60W and well hope for best.

 

[Gibbo]

Fair enough, will be a fairly horrible messy job doing it upside down

Yeah I will come out looking like a can of brake cleaner.

Protective goggles at the ready.

 

[Gibbo]

You need to keep an eye on your crank. If it is scored you will need to get it done and another set of bearings. Personally I wouldn't order anything until you can see what you're dealing with.

Well ordering now what I want to replace for sure which is:
Oil cooler
Oil pump
New shells/bearings kit
New arp bolts
Sump gasket
Rocker cover gasket
New artichoke and gasket
Dipstick seal
Oil filter and oil.

Those are what I intend changing, of course if any further damage is found such as crank needs re grinding etc then that will be done also.

 

[Gibbo]

That's the thing if the crank does need doing then you will need to buy another set of bearings sized to suit leaving the ones you have already purchased useless.

BMW only do one size of shells.

 

[Gibbo]

Go easy on the brake cleaner Gibbo. You don't want to wash out the oil that is in the main bearing shells (those you cant change with the engine in the car so leave well alone!)
you HAVE to have oil in the shells before you crank the motor over.
Rebuild the shells with proper engine assembly grease (Joe Gibbs does it) or you'll have a mare of job and it'll be dripping in your face if you try using oil.
and don't just bolt the new oil pump in dry, strip it and apply the same assembly grease, this will help it to suck up the oil out of the pan quicker.
oh and take all the spark plugs out if you haven't already..
1. It'll be easier to turn the engine over by hand as you do the big ends from underneath.
2. the engine will spin faster and with less load on the new shells whilst bringing the oil pressure back up after fitting all the new bits..
Capisce?

Ok only sprayed brake cleaner in plug holes so far and down oil filter housing.
Yeah I'm gonna buy some assembly lube for the shells and thanks for the advice on oil pump.

1. Plugs are out as I've being spraying brake cleaner down the holes.
2. So are you saying when it's all back together still leave plugs out and start/crank car?