*** Official 7950 Ice-Q Owners Club***

[tommybhoy]

***Official 7950 Ice-Q Owners Club***

OcUk have sold a fair few of these bad boys, so the Lt and myself thought there should be an official thread just for the Ice-Q.

So give yourself a pat on the back as you picked one of the best if not the best 7950's out there, it is simply an awesome oc'er on the core(on the whole that Iv'e seen on my travels in here), and it has probably the best custom AIB cooler out there bar none especially if you are going CrossFire, in that case it's untouchable for cooling outwith slapping water blocks on top.

Although on the whole, it's a cracking card there are a few things you may need to know and this could save you time and effort as the last part drove me up the wall.

First up, the not so bad, although the cores clock very well, the vram isn't as good as it's using Elpida, but core clocking far out ways vram clocking.

Next up, as generally it's the boost version most are using, it runs on a higher 1.25v default, there has been a few workarounds by making profiles in AB to lower stock voltage, the best way is flashing a custom bios-as it comes with a dual bios switch your sorted there.

Iv'e saved the most important for last, there is a flaw with the boost bios, it can cause gpu usage spikes=performance drop off in hard hitting titles(even oc'ed) therefore you may not be getting the full use of your gpu, but fear not, it can be fixed either with a bios flash or by changing the Power Limit in CCC by editing registry values if you feel uncomfortable about bios flashing.

Useful Info:

The first rule of crossfire club is disable ULPS.

If using CrossFire, optimum performance requires you to 'disable ulps', Afterburner is the tool of choice but I found reg entries quicker to use but these ones only work on W7.

W7 Enable/Disable ulps reg entries:

Download Link
http://www.sendspace.com/file/5agn1h

The AC Extreme fits while keeping the vrm cooling plate intact.

Spoiler

If you are looking to watercool, EK's full face plate water block part number is -EK-FC7950[EN]

Spoiler

LtMatts Bios Flashing Guide, thanks to Matt.

Spoiler

HIS 7950 Ice-Q Bios Flashing Guide - Remove the Boost Voltage of 1.25v, Stop Usage Spiking/Throttling - Give your card a Permanent +50% Power Line -


Bios Flashing Instructions

You might want to write this down...

You need to create a bootable usb stick.

1. Download and install the USB disk format tool here.

2. Download the Windows98 system files here.

3. Create a folder called Win98boot on your desktop, extract the files from step 2 into the folder.

4. Plug in your usb stick. Launch the USB disk format tool. Copy these settings, then click format. You need to select quick format, tick dos startup and select the Win98 folder, like ive done below.



5. Click start, then ok and it should do it.

6. Download atiflash. Extract it onto the usb stick.

7. Download my bios. Extract it and cut and paste it into the usb stick.

8. If you've done everything correctly your usb stick folder contents should look like this. (except the bios should say Matt.rom instead of HIS7950.rom) Do not worry if you have more or less files than what appears in the screenshot. As long as you have the bios file and atiflash thats all that matters. Windows 8 users might have extra files like in my screenshot.



If you look to have a file or two missing it could be because you don't have show hidden files ticked in control panel, folders.

9. Make sure all gpu's in your pc are switched onto bios 1.



10. Uninstall gpu drivers and any overclocking apps. Do not keep settings delete everything.

11. Restart your pc. Before you hear the beep keep tapping F8. Boot from the usb stick.

12. You should be at dos prompt. Type atiflash -i to get the adapter number for both your gpu's. Typically it will be 0 and 1, unless you have a gpu in a third pci-e slot. You need the adapter number to tell it which gpu to flash.

13. To flash gpu 1 type atiflash -p -f 0 Matt.rom and hit enter.

Wait for it to finish. It will prompt you to restart but before we do that we need to flash the second gpu as well.

Now do the second gpu (if you have one)

Type atiflash -p -f 1 Matt.rom

Once that has completed and you get a notification saying you can restart press Ctrl+Alt+Delete to restart your pc.

All going well you should get a display and boot back into windows. Now you can reinstall fresh new drivers etc. Boost voltage and boost clock is disabled, your card thinks its a non boost card from now on in and you have the option to select 50% power setting as standard with every driver install.

If something goes wrong and you get no display from the cards after flashing the bios. Turn the pc off and flick both cards bios switch to position 2 to use the stock backup bios. Turn the pc back on and all will be ok.

Good luck.

^
***A few are having problems with the tool for creating a bootable usb, you can try this alternative app to format your keydrive into a USB boot disc if the one in matts guide is causing problems***

Alternative_Bootable_USB_Drive_Creator_Tool


***Run the app and point the tool to 'USB Drive Boot Files' then 'MS-DOS', create your boot disc then add ATIflash and the bios .rom of your choice.***



HIS 7950 Ice-Q custom bios Collection.

***Please check your other Bios is intact and working first***
***Dont forget to make a backup of your original BIOS(use GPU-Z)***
***Please only attempt if you know the risk of what you're doing, and if you can recover from a bad BIOS flash if something goes wrong...***


New bios for testing:

925/1250MHz Non Boost 1.175v -INCREASED TDP FROM 130W TO 173W-CrossFire users-ulps can now remain enabled with no performance loss!!!

This is a new bios that Matt and myself have been testing, further feedback welcome-especially if you are running CrossFire.

Matt's found you can overclock further before you need the power limit.

My own testing has achieved slightly lower voltage for my 24/7 clocks:

Before-1100/[email protected] +30% Power Limit

Using this bios-1100/[email protected] no Power Limit adjustment required.

Download Link

http://www.sendspace.com/file/risbea



1. 925MHz/1250MHz Non Boost 1.175v(0.950mv idle voltage version):

Download Link
http://www.sendspace.com/file/5mv49f


925MHz/1250MHz Non Boost 1.175v(0.850mv idle voltage version):

Download Link
http://www.sendspace.com/file/g8e0fl


925MHz/1250MHz Non Boost 1.175v(0.800mv idle voltage version):

Download Link
http://www.sendspace.com/file/560v3m

I have left the choice of three different idle voltage for those that want the lowest temps/system wattage possible, if you have problems, try the next one up as the low idle bios might not be suitable for certain cards.

Features of the Bios:

Spoiler

*Boost clocks removed
*Boost voltage removed
*Stock clocks so should work with all HIS 7950 Ice-Q Cards
*925/1250 clocks with 1.175v voltage. Should be good for large overclocks while keeping cool.
*0.075v reduction in voltage from stock boost bios.
*Custom Fan profile specific to the bios
30c=30% fan speed
60c=60% fan speed
90c=100% fan speed
*50% power tune for life

Bios created by Kaboom. His thread can be found here. All credits to him.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1395490/ati-hd-7950-7970-bios-mod-thread

New version VBE7.0.0.7 is up on my thread now. It now recalculates the checksum so it would work on any motherboard and have no issues, also has a better fan profile adjuster and custom modifiable power limits. Check here. Scroll down to the bottom of the tool section for a download

2. 1000MHz/1400MHz Non Boost 1.18v:

Download Link
http://www.sendspace.com/file/qmiyyi

Features of the Bios:

Spoiler

*Boost clocks removed
*Boost voltage removed
*0.07v reduction in voltage from stock boost bios.
*1000/1400 clocks with 1.18v voltage. Every Ice-Q should manage these clocks, any problems give your vram voltage a slight nudge.

Thanks to LtMatt/Kaboom


3. tommy's 925MHz/[email protected]/Aggressive Fan Profile:

Download Link
http://www.sendspace.com/file/15aa58

Features of the Bios:

Spoiler

*Copied Kabooms settings adding an aggresive fan profile for max air cooling
*Boost clocks removed
*Boost voltage removed
*Stock clocks so should work with all HIS 7950 Ice-Q Cards
*925/1250 clocks with 1.175v voltage. Should be good for testing large overclocks on max air cooling.
*0.075v reduction in voltage from stock boost bios.
*Custom Fan profile specific to the bios
30c=30% fan speed
70c=95% fan speed
97c=100% fan speed
*50% power tune for life

4. Stock Ice-Q Boost Bios:

Download Link

http://www.sendspace.com/file/y49731


Bios screens grabbed via VBE7 vbios editor



Useful Links:

His iTurbo 1.4.4(OC tool)




AMD - How to Change The Power Control/Limit from +20% to +50%(Software GPU Spike Fix)

****7950 (disabled) BOOST BIOS thread****(Includes Power Control/Limit from +20% to +50%) thanks to IC3



AMD: A fix for users with high "Boost" voltages(Lower Voltage via Software) thanks to Chrisoldinho


AMD - How To Overclock The Official Way Using Afterburner + Step By Step Overclocking Guide + Complete Driver Sweep thanks to LtMatt


**THE AMD DRIVERS THREAD** thanks to:

How To Make Sure Crossfire Is Working? thanks to LtMatt





EK Water Blocks EK-FC7950[EN] Full Cover GPU Water Block Review




Any other info will get thrown in here if it's worthy.

Happy gaming folks.

***Please remember when posting-this is the Official 7950 Ice-Q Owners Club-If You Haven't Got One, You Can't Get In!***

 

[tommybhoy]

@ matt,

even better guide than your first one I used in op, fancy moving it up to post number 2 and you can put all your juicy bits of info in there like oc gains and such?

@Richeh,

1.3v for 1200MHz is fine providing you keep it cool enough with 100% fan and don't keep it there for 24/7 use or sustained Kamikaze runs if you just want to hit 1200MHz.

Iirc, the old Crysis bm's have a loop function or you can dial in the amount of runs to sustain, personally I imagine an hour or two would suffice for stability though.

I would say the absolute sweet spot for stability/temps/vrms on these for general gaming is 1100MHz on the core.

@Moh2,

You could try backing up your working bios and use it to reflash the bricked one, or try matts bios file in his post above, but DON'T tinker with your working bios-read lots of gutted storys over time with users being silly and mucking up both bios.

 

[tommybhoy]

I will have to get Tommy to update the OP.

Done, bit of a nightmare on a phone but got there in the end.

 

[tommybhoy]

@Jonny Chee,

As long as you have one working bios left, the card is fine, as above, both bios are recoverable if it goes wrong-but in all cases, if you brick one bios, don't be foolish and attempt to flash the other bios without recovering the one you made a mess of first.

Finally Offcial Ice-Q thread! Good work Tommy

I pulled the short straw, but I'm sure the Lt will be the hardest at work in here.

 

[tommybhoy]

Sorry if what I'm about to ask seems a little silly but are you saying that you can boot from BIOS 2 then flick the BIOS switch while your PC is running to flash BIOS 1?

set it to number 2 and boot into windows, and while running in windows flick the switch to number 1 then attempt to flash the bios as per guides.

100% correct.

Maybe Tommy can confirm but im not sure its possible to stop the card boosting, is it tommy? I honestly can't remember now its been so long since i used the stock bios.

Stock bios always boosts, boost sucks imo.

I noticed Crysis 3 crashed again with the clock at 1070/1400 using the custom bios in the other thread, changed to the 1050/1400 one and been spot on so far. Think I just have a crappy card (in terms of overclock).

Or it just needs more volts,but 1050/1400 is still a good clock on lower voltage.

 

[tommybhoy]

No problems on W8 with sleep here, been using sleep for a long time too over various drivers, maybe a specific setup/software conflict on your end Tripledot.

 

[tommybhoy]

Case side off, 1100Mhz core, 1400Mhz memory, 1.19v, 20% power limit and 50% fan speed got me a max temp of 84 Celsius in Unigine Valley. That was an overclock using the stock boost BIOS.

Gonna set up an RMA I guess...

There's your problem, you are running a high oc that I would say needs at least a manual set fan@75%, which is still considerably quieter than a WF/TFIII on auto@60c.

An rma is only going to cost you a return fee/testing imo.

 

[tommybhoy]

Would flashing the bios gain me anything?
Do these bios just replace the 925/1250? What voltage do they default to, or is this something that you have to set yourself regardless?

Thanks

Flashing the bios enables disabled boost clocks/lower stock voltage=no gpu spiking/cooler running.

The voltage are set in accordance to Asic quality, you don't set stock voltage as such unless you want even lower voltage.

 

[tommybhoy]

He might also have a bad paste job and or poor cooler contact.

That could be case, maybe simpler to redo it yourself and keep quiet about it, but I still think he needs to bump up the fan at those clock speeds.

I've noticed@stock, the 79s can run quite hot and stay relatively stable on a lower fan profile to reduce noise, but, oc them however and artifacts/ctd happen even when running cooler.

@SouthEastBlue,

Ocuk will only test the card@stock so I presume it will pass as (presuming again here) they won't monitor temps etc, if it simply works out the box, it works.

The only other options are to discuss the matter in a CS thread to find out where you stand regarding temps/redo paste etc, or DSR the card and order another/different gpu while taking a hit on postage cost if you definitely want rid of that particular card.

 

[tommybhoy]

Thanks tommy,

So, if I flash it creates stock settings of 1050/1400, but the voltage to run at that level will be set by Asic quality? So if it sets it at say 1.85 (would be nice) I could potentially have a fair bit more overclock headroom?
Would this also be the case for idle temps? I can see now that I've changed voltage manually, the idle voltage seems to have also dropped.

Bit new to this as I've never really messed about with voltages on previous cards, just used ccc for a quick boost.

If you use that bios it will run cooler on higher clocks as the voltage is still lower than the high 1.25v boost bios, that custom bios is 1.175v iirc, matt will tell you for sure(I'm not sure which one I'm running now I've flashed that many).

I dont think idle clocks are different as it runs lower voltage in idle anyway but I could be wrong there.

Still pot luck on oc'ing but going balls out will require 1.3v so it doesn't really matter what bios you use as they both need bumped up(but the stock will probably spike though).

 

[tommybhoy]

Sent my card off to OCUK today so hopefully I will have a new card (or worse scenario my old one) to try this new BIOS with when I get home next weekend.

Fingers crossed you get sorted out.

The bios of everyones dreams is here. Tommy please add it along with features to the OP.

Bios created by Kaboom. His thread can be found here. All credits to him.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1395490/ati-hd-7950-7970-bios-mod-thread

Download Link
http://www.sendspace.com/file/5mv49f

Good work matt and give Kaboom a thumbs up from the oCuk IceQ users, it's appreciated.

I'll update the thread tonight.

Well thats a little lower than I would have thought!

Most of the IceQ's are low Asic.

 

[tommybhoy]

Updated op with the 925/1250MHz bios, thanks again Matt/Kaboom.

Will need to give that bios a go.

Any way to recover the original bios for slot 1?

use gpu-z to download BIOS 2, then flash it to BIOS 1

^
This.

Could graphic corruption be due to power supply?

Possibly if it's faulty and not providing enough power, what PSU is it?

 

[tommybhoy]

SD is very demanding-it's pulling a lot of power from your psu(but I don't have a clue if it's any good or not), but SD's generally been running well for a while now going by my own experience and reading the AMD driver thread, it may well still be a driver issue, but it may be a specific system compatibility issue causing a conflict with some other software/hardware in your rig.

Try sending a report into AMD:

Click To Report AMD Driver Issues

 

[tommybhoy]

Just modded my first bios using VBE7.0.0.4.

Simply added a more aggressive fan speed to the 925/1250MHz bios and it's running sweet, might be noisy though, who knows lol.

925MHz/[email protected]/Aggressive Fan Profile can be found on the op for anyone interested.

 

[tommybhoy]

I tried it again at 20% and The Bureau crashes with a black screen and then a game not responding error on desktop. The same happens at 25% but at 30% it runs fine, so I am not sure what is going on there.

Another odd issue since flashing the BIOS is my system doesn't wake up from power saving properly. There is power to the peripherals but no display and I have to hard power off to restart (gives the usual 'Windows did not shutdown properly' message on restart). I will see if going back to BIOS switch 2 makes any difference later on tonight.

Sounds like you're still on the stock bios to me. I'm able to run 1.3v 1215/1750 and i don't get any throttling at 20%. So if you can get throttling with lower clock and voltage on a game that is not at all demanding them something is not right there. I also have no issues waking up from sleep.

I can still get throttling if I don't do 30% in some titles regardless the bios matt, it may be one of my cards, maybe one needs the extra juice idk.

My wake up is busted now too since since I put in the 925MHz bios, goes to show how differing setups can throw wobblies on drivers, dcsarge is on Z78, I'm on Z77 and matts on P67 I think.

Z77 has thrown up anomalies like undoing the 6950 unlocked shaders and other various things that was fine when I was on Z67.

I've updated the post and will drop tommy a mail to get him to update the OP.

Done.

Ordered, will have a re-read of this thread I think.

Lol, caved in and went beauty and the beast mode!

 

[tommybhoy]

Three 7950's will have excellent price to performance ratio. I don't believe it can be beat, except by maybe two 7950's.

Spoiler

 

[tommybhoy]

Well done matt, thanks again Kaboom.

OP updated with the new .800mv bios, I have left in the original non boost stock [email protected] just in case anyone needs it.

@Skeletor, if those clocks are stable, you have a cracker on your hands as most Ice-Q's can't clock that high on the vram.

 

[tommybhoy]

ulps was not disabled in afterburner for some reason when i ve not change it....could driver update be cause?

Ulps is enabled by default each driver change so you need to change it again.

Alternatively, if you are using W7, you can use reg files for ease of use, I have added them to the op.

If anyone knows of W8 reg entries to disable ulps, send them in please.

 

[tommybhoy]

Thanks matt.

Op updated with then idle 0.850mv bios and added in clearer credit for Kaboom's hard work, only noticed it was hidden away in one of the spoilers when I was doing an edit.

 

[tommybhoy]

Anyone have a view?

Try an MB bios update, it's a possibility, but as your WF has no problems, I would put the Ice-Q straight into the second slot, join up the CrossFire bridge, reboot and check CCC has the CrossFire option available.

I have followed the steps at the start of the guide but cant get it to work. Not to sure why? i follow every step but when i open up the usb it does not look the same. what gives? is there another way to flash the bios?

You can try this alternative app to format a keydrive into a USB boot disc:

Bootable_USB_Drive_Creator_Tool


Run the app and point the tool to 'USB Drive Boot Files' then 'MS-DOS', create your boot disc then add ATIflash and the bios .rom of your choice.