***Official Electronics Thread of Officialness (it starts off with lots of Nixie Tube Clock goodness

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M-M-M-M-M-M-M-M-M-M-M-M-MONSTER POST!

That is so cool, I want one now!
How long do the tubes last? As supplies are unreliable it may be worth stocking up...

edit: OK, wikipedia says upto 200,000 hours for the more modern tubes, that's almost 23 years of constant use so not as bad as I thought. A couple spares may be handy to have though.
My Tubes are rated for a 10,000 hour minimum lifespan as long as the drive voltage doesn't exceed 200V.

many people get more than 30 years out of a set of tubes, especially the mercury-enhanced ones, and even more so if the clocks have a slot-machine-routine like mine does.

Ever since my phone replaced my clock, calendar, camera, and also became a mobile internet device, I've never really needed any of those functions on another device.

Mobile phones ***!

It's not really the same though :p

Good point actually, I wonder if anyone has created a nixie clock theme for one of the many clock apps out there. I use Kaloer Clock on my AMOLED phone so all you see is the digits in the dark, one like this would look amazing!

As for the DIY, you could make it without abase, go Skeleton case look or mesh out some parts like those Gigabyte motherboards, looks ace.

There are Nixie-Clock apps... they're pretty poor though :(
It's very hard to accurately capture the true feel of the nixies with a Camera.
As for your Mesh casing suggestion? i LOVE it. almost definitely going to go for mesh now :D :)

Ace, I love a bit of soldering.

Now checking those links you posted.


Thanks a lot for the heads up, fun times ahead.

Good stuff. feel free to ask if you need any advice :)

Where did you get the kit from?

And why are the flexible version tubes so much more expensive than the not flex?

The Kit Came from http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk and was of outstanding quality. i wouldn't hesitate in using any of their products in the future.

Tubes with solid Pins can't be soldered directly, the pins conduct too much heat and crack the glass, ruining the tube. because of that, solid-pinned-tubes need to be used in conjunction with either their exceedingly rare original sockets, or you need to create the sockets yourself.
Thin-wire tubes are much more convenient because they can simply be soldered in place by hand without any form of fancy mounting. :)

Came as a kit, took me a couple of days to put together. The most soldering I have ever done in my life!

The tubes are IN-18's, and the whole kit cost around £400 I think, maybe more.

Phwoar, that's a beast matey. bet you're proud as hell of it though! :D it's a true beaut :)
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That looks nice, do the tubes get very hot? If not then I'd be tempted to go for some sort of wooden enclosure in order to pull off the retro look. :)

Nope, the Tubes stay completely cold. they're all room temerature on mine. infact, the only things on the whole board that get warm are the IRF640 and the 220uH inductor.

DO WANT!

How much we talking?

total materials price was £60 for mine, but Tubes are much more expensive now. including min. wage. for labour costs it would come to ~£128.20 :p :D

You can tell you were back from on the lash with soldering like that :D

Actually, I was completely sober, albeit a bit tired. i'm just a bit rusty and the solder areas are really really small! :)

Anywhere selling complete kits. But I guess it isn't too hard to get the kit and tubes seperatly.

Whats a good price for some fairly sized tubes?

I'd not wanna go anywhere near the £400 mark, it's very cool, but a £400 clock, I think not. Could it be done and still look good and not tiny for under £100?

Look in my post No. 3, the first link i posted is a complete set of six Russian IN-18 tubes (HUGE!) and the second is a kit that uses them. there are more sets of IN-18's out there on ebay too.

For under £100 you'd be looking at something quite a bit more bespoke. the IN-8's are reasonably sized tubes and can be had affordably, not quite as impressive as the IN-18s though.

If you want, you could take a chance and try out some other tubes, like the ITT or Raytheon Tubes i linked to, if you don't like/can't use them you can almost certainly sell them.

There are a fair few complete kits available, but most of them use the IN-14 nixies, which are completely fine, albeit a little small :)

Do they make a noise? I like to imagine that they start up with an electrical fizz :)

The ever-slightest electrical humming comes from the device due to the SMPS and the tone changes with digit changes. can't hear it from more than about 6 inches though :)

Anyone considering building a big Nixie Kit will appreciate this AWESOME find on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/super-nix...pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item336a14a54e you're all welcome! :)
 
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Tubes with solid Pins can't be soldered directly, the pins conduct too much heat and crack the glass, ruining the tube. because of that, solid-pinned-tubes need to be used in conjunction with either their exceedingly rare original sockets, or you need to create the sockets yourself.
Thin-wire tubes are much more convenient because they can simply be soldered in place by hand without any form of fancy mounting. :)

You can buy single pin sockets that solder on to a PCB and will take the pins :)
 
Cool toy!

Sounds like you could get more life by rotating the tubes once in awhile, if it isn't too much bother. Maybe once a week put the one from Slot 1 into Slot 2, 2 to 3, 6 to 1, etc. That zero on the far left is going to be lit up for 20 hours a day.
 
Cool toy!

Sounds like you could get more life by rotating the tubes once in awhile, if it isn't too much bother. Maybe once a week put the one from Slot 1 into Slot 2, 2 to 3, 6 to 1, etc. That zero on the far left is going to be lit up for 20 hours a day.
The tubes are soldered in place and they're a MASSIVE pain to solder, so swapping them round isn't practical unfortunately, as that's a good plan.

Currently, every 10 minutes the clock cycles all the tubes through all their digits for 10 seconds to prevent burn in which should be sufficient :)

interestingly enough, with Nixies, the digits that aren't used are the ones that degrade in static displays, as metal emissions deposit on the inactive digits, covering them up and stopping them from functioning.

That is very funky :cool:

Thanks! :)
 
The tubes are soldered in place and they're a MASSIVE pain to solder, so swapping them round isn't practical unfortunately, as that's a good plan.
Lesson learned: when I build mine I will socket the tubes. :)

edit: ahh, I see that was said already.

interestingly enough, with Nixies, the digits that aren't used are the ones that degrade in static displays, as metal emissions deposit on the inactive digits, covering them up and stopping them from functioning.
Makes sense. Good to know!
 
Of course, you have to ask how much extra you're paying for a kit over buying parts separately. If somebody put together a basket on Rapid it would be just as easy to buy... main disadvantage being the lack of a printed PCB, so you'd either be making your own or using perfboard.
 
Of course, you have to ask how much extra you're paying for a kit over buying parts separately. If somebody put together a basket on Rapid it would be just as easy to buy... main disadvantage being the lack of a printed PCB, so you'd either be making your own or using perfboard.
it wouldn't work out any cheaper actually. the kits are remarkably good value.
for one thing, the wiring for the clocks (even if you use multiplexing instead of direct drive) is unpleasantly complicated. doing it in perfboard (i call it Veroboard still) is possible but very challenging.

he also appears to sell kits!
Indeed, and i suspect that their quality is unparalleled. unfortunately, so is their price :p
 
IN-18s are so expensive :(

Might have to give friends in Estonia a call and see if they can get hold of some or something.

Do they have estonian ebay?
 
it wouldn't work out any cheaper actually. the kits are remarkably good value.
for one thing, the wiring for the clocks (even if you use multiplexing instead of direct drive) is unpleasantly complicated. doing it in perfboard (i call it Veroboard still) is possible but very challenging.


Indeed, and i suspect that their quality is unparalleled. unfortunately, so is their price :p

yeah £155 is a bit steep for the kits but I'll bet they work well!
 
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