Official Mayhems Support post.

@mlwood

is it ok to mix biocide extreme with your normal biocide or would you recomend only using extreme upon changing the water.

at the moment i'm using your ultra pure and normal biocide
 
I know this is a dumb question (I'm new to Watercooling), but what happens if some leaks onto the motherboard etc? Can these fluids fry components?
 
I know this is a dumb question (I'm new to Watercooling), but what happens if some leaks onto the motherboard etc? Can these fluids fry components?

Yes, IF the system is switched on when it happens.

When you are leak testing/building/filling the loop, the only thing that will have power will be the pump, so nothing else will have power (mobo, gfx cards etc) so if it happens then, in theory, you should be fine. All you would need to do is make sure that everything is thoroughly dried before turning it on, at least, this is my understanding of the situation
 
Ive found my lost pearls!!!

So ive had Mayhems Aurora Green fluid in my loop since about christmas, in the fisrt week or so my pearls started to disappear and to be honest, ive been past caring with everything else ive been doing.

But I had a quick look today to see how many were left as it just looks like green fluid now and is quite clear.

Anyway, there are no pearls left but I do believe ive found them hiding in my graphics card block, I have a 580 GTX, again, bought at christmas time, have a look.

100_0643.jpg


100_0647.jpg



See between the waterways over the GPU and again where it loops around back to the top of the card, its all glittery!

This doesn't extend all the way up between the barbs, you can see in the 2nd pic it stops around the area of the screw.

The card is in a Mountain Mods HG2O case so is mounted with the barbs being the highest point, not sure why this should make a difference but it obviously does.

Its not affected temps at all, they're still the same within 1-2 degrees.

Is it possible to buy a shot of pearls to see if they'll fill in the remaining bits or stay in the loop?

:D
 
Do not take this as 100 Perfect but we've run pastel for over 1 month with a leak direct over the CPU. (we didn't release) how ever it had no effect but all so our system is dust free and this may not happen on your own system.
 
Ive found my lost pearls!!!

So ive had Mayhems Aurora Green fluid in my loop since about christmas, in the fisrt week or so my pearls started to disappear and to be honest, ive been past caring with everything else ive been doing.

But I had a quick look today to see how many were left as it just looks like green fluid now and is quite clear.

Anyway, there are no pearls left but I do believe ive found them hiding in my graphics card block, I have a 580 GTX, again, bought at christmas time, have a look.

100_0643.jpg


100_0647.jpg



See between the waterways over the GPU and again where it loops around back to the top of the card, its all glittery!

This doesn't extend all the way up between the barbs, you can see in the 2nd pic it stops around the area of the screw.

The card is in a Mountain Mods HG2O case so is mounted with the barbs being the highest point, not sure why this should make a difference but it obviously does.

Its not affected temps at all, they're still the same within 1-2 degrees.

Is it possible to buy a shot of pearls to see if they'll fill in the remaining bits or stay in the loop?

:D

To be hoist weve been considering doing this but we haven't come up with a decision on how we go about it yet.
 
Do not take this as 100 Perfect but we've run pastel for over 1 month with a leak direct over the CPU. (we didn't release) how ever it had no effect but all so our system is dust free and this may not happen on your own system.

im confused - why would dust make a difference? :)
 
To be hoist weve been considering doing this but we haven't come up with a decision on how we go about it yet.

Could be tricky with all the different coloured fluids its going in. Not sure how big the pearls are but id imagine they'll be tricky to put in a res in a dry form.
 
Yes, IF the system is switched on when it happens.

When you are leak testing/building/filling the loop, the only thing that will have power will be the pump, so nothing else will have power (mobo, gfx cards etc) so if it happens then, in theory, you should be fine. All you would need to do is make sure that everything is thoroughly dried before turning it on, at least, this is my understanding of the situation

Years ago, I heard of fluids that don't toast your PC (even with it switched on) when it leaks due to the way it has been formulated. I don't know the exact science of it, but I guess the liquid has such a poor conductivity of electricity that it wont have any effect. Is there still stuff on the market like this?

My brother used to water-cool with tap water (Yes, I know, big nono) and ended up with a toasted motherboard when he sprung a leak.

Edit: I believe ThePengu1n is wrong. I compared the conductivity to the other non-conductive fluids and its Mayhems is lower!
 
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The only real none conductive fluids on the market are Fluorinert wich i can supply for £40 per Kilo (which is about 1/2 a Ltr) or Novac wich is £120 to £140 per Kilo (3/4 of a Ltr)

Novac is lighter than Fluorinert, Fluorinert Expands more than Novac when heated and may crack certain types of res.

These would have to be ordered direct though me and first you would have to sign a waver form that you understand the consequences of using such products and all liability will be held by you self not us.
 
Mlwood

Iv got some mayhems x1 uv green coolent for my up coming watercooling project and i'm looking at getting EK waterblocks as i prefer the look and proformance of them. Just want to ask if i will need to add some anti-corrosives to the x1 pre mix as i'll be getting the EN (nickel) blocks??
 
Mlwood

Iv got some mayhems x1 uv green coolent for my up coming watercooling project and i'm looking at getting EK waterblocks as i prefer the look and proformance of them. Just want to ask if i will need to add some anti-corrosives to the x1 pre mix as i'll be getting the EN (nickel) blocks??

no

X1 has it in. as long as you don't have aluminium in your loop, it's ok
 
So, after waiting for OcUK to stock UV Premix UV Blood Red - I ordered two bottles. I noticed they're not the same colour?? Both the bottles are labelled correctly - so what should I do?

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Bottles reversed, to show that shade/light makes no difference:
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