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*** Official Ryzen Owners Thread ***

OK..... giving up on overclocking for the moment.

At 1.44v after about 1.40hrs I ran in to the issue where the gpu/monitor loses connection and cant be woken up. I had only gone this high because of this issue with the monitor.

Of course during those 1.40hrs it had successfully woken up 4-5 times.

Maybe my chip cant do 3.9Ghz then because if this is overclock related, I need 1.45v minimum.

@AMDMatt - Do you know of a voltage I may need to tweak to alleviate this behaviour?

The internet seems to suggest playing with CPU PLL voltage but that's for Intel boards I believe.

It's annoying as it's impossible to overclock like this. I don't know if the monitor not waking from sleep is due to overclock or something else. As said above even at 1.44v the monitor was fine 4 times in about 1.40hrs then on the 5th time failed to wake.

My only option is to go down to 3.8Ghz and see if it exhibits the same behaviour.

Also need to check if it does this behaviour at stock too.

The symptom when it happens is the gpustoplight goes off, which usually means the GPU drivers have disengaged from the hardware. You usually see it when the PC is booting and the gpu drivers haven't taken control of the card.
 
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OK..... giving up on overclocking for the moment.

At 1.44v after about 1.40hrs I ran in to the issue where the gpu/monitor loses connection and cant be woken up.

Of course during those 1.40hrs it had successfully woken up 4-5 times.

Maybe my chip cant do 3.9Ghz then because if this is overclock related, I need 1.45v minimum.
Pretty sure sleep is a bug ifyour in balanced or high performance mode. Use amd profile it doesn't happen.
I had the same in the other modrs
 
Well... the time had finally come to say farewell to my 2500k... It's been many years, but most of my games are pushing it to 99% even with a humble 1060 gpu, so it seems that the time is right and I can finally stop lurking and actually claim a spot in this thread :p

Bring forth the box of goodies!

GrtczL8.jpg


Been promising myself for a long time that I'd get an mATX motherboard with the next build, and look at shrinking the PC in general, but for now it's going to live in the old case; an Aerocool DS200. AiO cooler, PSU, fans and drives will be kept. Look at that horrible colour clash between the Z68 board and the memory :(

nbntSYJ.jpg


Finally a use for my genuine ostrich feather feather duster! No risk of static discharge here, and it does a remarkably good job of getting the filth out!

7MDb0UP.jpg


Pretty respectable for a case that's been lived in for three years!

uKU8MNq.jpg


It puts the CPU in the board or it gets the hose again!

mBKDnTG.jpg


But yeah, it's way easier to clip in the CPU, m.2 and memory sticks before screwing the motherboard into the case. Surprisingly sparse around the CPU bracket, I guess that's the whole SoC paradigm we're getting these days.

Behold! Just as much cable clutter as ever!

BTbanJ5.jpg


Gave it a bit of a tidy as I was putting under the desk. About as organised as it's going to get, nice big airflow tunnel, most cables tucked behind the backplate. RGB memory provides a soothing waterfall of colours. The fan controller is used to take the edge off the radiator fans and pump, making them all largely inaudible. Case fans are connected to the DS200's 3-speed control buttons, and hopefully that'll be all that's needed to compensate for warmer weather.

Intentionally fitted the rear fan backwards, since the AiO provides no downdraft on the motherboard and having this fan pulling should go some way to restoring the airflow over the VRMs. Plus I can fit a dust shield on it and just maybe get some positive pressure inside the case so that it doesn't suck up every mote of fluff that drifts past.

CsR3ZJo.jpg


Future plans include getting rid of an hdd and an ssd, which leaves the whole system quite capable of fitting in a nice micro case - but that'll need me to actually bother to clean stuff off them and probably get a NAS box, since the secondary hdd is purely a backup disk. Soon as I can ship that out onto shelf,

The carpet is not actually mouldy in the corner there, camera seems to have whammed up the contrast.

...I really should swap out that fan with the sticky gunk on it. I think I'd mounted it the wrong way round back when I first fitted it. Oh well, it lives on the floor anyway, and I won't see it with the case closed. Also dat PSU label... it may have to go.

mWonDAL.jpg


1600X won't be overclocked since I can't really see the point for such small returns. Putting my hopes in Zen+ landing in the same socket and getting those clockspeeds up a bit :)

2x16gb memory is running stable at 2933 C14 with the F5 bios. Attempt at 3200 resulted in a bluescreen and refusal to boot, requiring a cmos clear. Given that it's dual ranked and 16gb dimms, this seems to be about the best that can be expected, so I'm happy with this. Fighting for anything further seems like a lot of work for very little gain, so this is what it will live at unless a new bios promises higher speeds on this config. 10.5 hours of memtest64 came back clear of errors and there have been zero crashes or freezes today while I got my install settled.

The old(ish) AiO does rather well, keeping the CPU around 68-69 in prime 95, and a mere 55 while playing Ark Survival. This game used to push 99% usage and 80 degrees on the 2500k, but with Ryzen it's eating only about 35%. Which is mad, frankly. I did not expect there to be that much difference! I thought it would be core-for-core about as fast, and 50% better in multi-threading, but clearly there's a lot more power difference than that. Need to fire up Cities Skylines and see how it fares with a few hundred thousand citizens :D

The 960 pro m.2 drive turns out to be insanely fast. POST takes longer than the windows boot sequence, and hibernate is faster still. If I get distracted looking at the rainbow dimms after turning on, it's at the login screen before I straighten up :D

Total (re)build time; about 7 hours from start to first Windows boot, including a break and some beers along the way.
 
I've got my 1700 bundle up and running but am having some issues with temperature monitoring and fan control software.

I'm using HWMonitor but i'm not sure which value is the CPU true temp, i'm guessing it's TMPIN2 as that shews the highest values.

Also is anyone using CAM or a Grid V2 fan controller. The CAM software is reading really low temps, ~15C, so the Grid fan controller won't control the fans properly anymore. Has anyone encountered this before or know of a solution.
 
Well... the time had finally come to say farewell to my 2500k... It's been many years, but most of my games are pushing it to 99% even with a humble 1060 gpu, so it seems that the time is right and I can finally stop lurking and actually claim a spot in this thread :p

Bring forth the box of goodies!


Been promising myself for a long time that I'd get an mATX motherboard with the next build, and look at shrinking the PC in general, but for now it's going to live in the old case; an Aerocool DS200. AiO cooler, PSU, fans and drives will be kept. Look at that horrible colour clash between the Z68 board and the memory :(


Finally a use for my genuine ostrich feather feather duster! No risk of static discharge here, and it does a remarkably good job of getting the filth out!



Pretty respectable for a case that's been lived in for three years!


It puts the CPU in the board or it gets the hose again!


But yeah, it's way easier to clip in the CPU, m.2 and memory sticks before screwing the motherboard into the case. Surprisingly sparse around the CPU bracket, I guess that's the whole SoC paradigm we're getting these days.

Behold! Just as much cable clutter as ever!


Gave it a bit of a tidy as I was putting under the desk. About as organised as it's going to get, nice big airflow tunnel, most cables tucked behind the backplate. RGB memory provides a soothing waterfall of colours. The fan controller is used to take the edge off the radiator fans and pump, making them all largely inaudible. Case fans are connected to the DS200's 3-speed control buttons, and hopefully that'll be all that's needed to compensate for warmer weather.

Intentionally fitted the rear fan backwards, since the AiO provides no downdraft on the motherboard and having this fan pulling should go some way to restoring the airflow over the VRMs. Plus I can fit a dust shield on it and just maybe get some positive pressure inside the case so that it doesn't suck up every mote of fluff that drifts past.


Future plans include getting rid of an hdd and an ssd, which leaves the whole system quite capable of fitting in a nice micro case - but that'll need me to actually bother to clean stuff off them and probably get a NAS box, since the secondary hdd is purely a backup disk. Soon as I can ship that out onto shelf,

The carpet is not actually mouldy in the corner there, camera seems to have whammed up the contrast.

...I really should swap out that fan with the sticky gunk on it. I think I'd mounted it the wrong way round back when I first fitted it. Oh well, it lives on the floor anyway, and I won't see it with the case closed. Also dat PSU label... it may have to go.


1600X won't be overclocked since I can't really see the point for such small returns. Putting my hopes in Zen+ landing in the same socket and getting those clockspeeds up a bit :)

2x16gb memory is running stable at 2933 C14 with the F5 bios. Attempt at 3200 resulted in a bluescreen and refusal to boot, requiring a cmos clear. Given that it's dual ranked and 16gb dimms, this seems to be about the best that can be expected, so I'm happy with this. Fighting for anything further seems like a lot of work for very little gain, so this is what it will live at unless a new bios promises higher speeds on this config. 10.5 hours of memtest64 came back clear of errors and there have been zero crashes or freezes today while I got my install settled.

The old(ish) AiO does rather well, keeping the CPU around 68-69 in prime 95, and a mere 55 while playing Ark Survival. This game used to push 99% usage and 80 degrees on the 2500k, but with Ryzen it's eating only about 35%. Which is mad, frankly. I did not expect there to be that much difference! I thought it would be core-for-core about as fast, and 50% better in multi-threading, but clearly there's a lot more power difference than that. Need to fire up Cities Skylines and see how it fares with a few hundred thousand citizens :D

The 960 pro m.2 drive turns out to be insanely fast. POST takes longer than the windows boot sequence, and hibernate is faster still. If I get distracted looking at the rainbow dimms after turning on, it's at the login screen before I straighten up :D

Total (re)build time; about 7 hours from start to first Windows boot, including a break and some beers along the way.

For the RAM, check you have disabled super io clock skew.

I struggle above 2993 with it enabled.

Currently have my 2 x 16gb hynix at 3200. Well, actually 3150 currently as though would see if see cpu would clock higher using black. But 3200 was tpu 8 hour stable.

Fairly loose but haven't tried tightening yet.
 
Bearing in mind that I haven't touched voltage controls or overclocked, is it normal that I monitor some rather sharp voltage spikes with Ryzen Master and CPU-Z? Seeing peaks as high as 1.50v and it's a bit scary!

MW4a8PS.jpg

Interestingly, running Prime95 on all cores, it settles at 1.29 or thereabouts. This is with the F5 (AGESA 1.0.0.6) bios for my board.

Also, RM and CPU-Z disagree by roughly 0.05v, with CPU-Z taking the low end of the scale. Which to trust?
 
Auto voltage is retarded on ryzen. Best of manually setting it.

Gaming K7
Stock my voltage is
1.468V to 1.55V and drops as low as 1.29v
sometimes this fails to boot at cold startup


if i overclock to 3.9
my Auto voltage is 1.360V to 1.380V
never have issue booting

both are very stable. im pretty sure their over compensating for the 4.1Ghz Boost.
 
How much do voltages change from bios to bios?

Like can a bios update improve volts needed to achieve certain clocks in any meaningful way?

Lets take the CPU. The bios may change in the board but the CPU silicon is still unchanged. So do volts needed for certain clocks change at all?
 
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