Operation Fresh Toast H440 Watercooled
- Thread starter Disco_P
- Start date
H440 makes tidy builds super easy. There is very little effort required. Shame the design restricts airflow so much but temps are fine for me so I don't really care.
LOL
Associate
- Joined
- 20 Apr 2013
- Posts
- 105
- Location
- London
Haha winning toast picture.
lol I must say I'm quite confused
Make a post in GD asking for a name change.
Just email one of the dons and they will change it for you. 
He also goes by the name Optimus Toaster
Last edited:
Normal name is Optimus Toaster. Also ~Mike~ is known to me by Rufus or rofls
Make a post in GD asking for a name change.
Just email one of the dons and they will change it for you.
He also goes by the name Optimus Toaster
I'll get an email sent.
Stop artificially boosting your post count.
Whatever you do don't post in GD.
I don't need to boost my post count like some do. Only 542 to go.
Whatever you do don't post in GD.
I don't need to boost my post count like some do. Only 542 to go.
I am making my way, though I sold all my stuff on eBay and only have eyes for the maxwell cards now. Dat power draw doe.
The power draw is insanely low. Some of the reviews show 290 performance at half the power. AMD better have to good **** up their sleeve considering this isn't even Maxwell's final form.
aaah alright. does make sense now haha
Dunno if this counts as necroing or whether that is even against the rules but I have been doing a few things here and there with my build.
First and foremost if you have an H440 and want more airflow, remove the mesh strips (even if it is just the non visible ones) as this will measurably reduce the temperatures of your components. They are held in by cross head screws so can be removed and replaced at will.
I have also removed the foam from my front panel as an experiment to see if that improves anything. Long story short - no.
Short story long, it was an utter pain to get off and I managed to dig a wallpaper scraper into my wrist.
I also got in contact with NZXT about replacing my broken USB port (my fault) and the dim LED on the NZXT logo (their fault). They were more than happy to sort everything out and sent it to me free from the US. Unfortunately they sent me a front panel instead of front panel connectors so that is now in transit.
Finally some random pictures of my build as it is now with the F12s installed as intake and NF-P14r as exhaust.
First and foremost if you have an H440 and want more airflow, remove the mesh strips (even if it is just the non visible ones) as this will measurably reduce the temperatures of your components. They are held in by cross head screws so can be removed and replaced at will.
I have also removed the foam from my front panel as an experiment to see if that improves anything. Long story short - no.
Short story long, it was an utter pain to get off and I managed to dig a wallpaper scraper into my wrist.
I also got in contact with NZXT about replacing my broken USB port (my fault) and the dim LED on the NZXT logo (their fault). They were more than happy to sort everything out and sent it to me free from the US. Unfortunately they sent me a front panel instead of front panel connectors so that is now in transit.
Finally some random pictures of my build as it is now with the F12s installed as intake and NF-P14r as exhaust.
Necroing is against the rules Toaster!
Seeing as this has been brought back from the dead I might as well update it with what I did yesterday.
Dean0 did a sweet yellow and black build in the same case and managed to fit a huge front rad in. So naturally Istole borrowed the idea.
I changed my 30mm pull rad to a 60mm push pull rad (XSPC RX360 V2) which I got off MM for a bargain £20 from SenTineL.
Trusty and dirt cheap Artic Cooling F12s are my rad fans
I then mounted the pump res combo onto that via an EK UNI 120mm pump mount. I also had to get a smaller tube for the res as the old one was too big. During the build I dropped the whole unit off the table snapping the D5 control knob and tachometer cable. Fortunately I rigged up a new control knob with a broken screwdriver, 2 nuts, a washer and some bluetac. The new knob sticks out so that I can easily change the speed without needing a screwdriver.
It only just fits between my top fans and my 780. Which was definitely planned for. It was pure luck
I also got a matching SSDs and a new Xonar Xense soundcard. Another MM bargain and I love it - mostly cause of the Sennheiser logo.
Moving the pump up gave my loads more cable management space.
Unfortunately I broke the water temp sensor but have ordered a new one.
Random extra pics
Bonus
Dean0 did a sweet yellow and black build in the same case and managed to fit a huge front rad in. So naturally I
I changed my 30mm pull rad to a 60mm push pull rad (XSPC RX360 V2) which I got off MM for a bargain £20 from SenTineL.
Trusty and dirt cheap Artic Cooling F12s are my rad fans
I then mounted the pump res combo onto that via an EK UNI 120mm pump mount. I also had to get a smaller tube for the res as the old one was too big. During the build I dropped the whole unit off the table snapping the D5 control knob and tachometer cable. Fortunately I rigged up a new control knob with a broken screwdriver, 2 nuts, a washer and some bluetac. The new knob sticks out so that I can easily change the speed without needing a screwdriver.
It only just fits between my top fans and my 780. Which was definitely planned for. It was pure luck
I also got a matching SSDs and a new Xonar Xense soundcard. Another MM bargain and I love it - mostly cause of the Sennheiser logo.
Moving the pump up gave my loads more cable management space.
Unfortunately I broke the water temp sensor but have ordered a new one.
Random extra pics
Bonus