Overheating Watercooling loop? - Please Help

SkittlesRandom said:
I made sure all the air has been drained from the loop, i have moved it around and ran it on a separate PSU when fitting to ensure it was running with no leaks before powering on so no bubbles in any blocks and the res is almost completely full and this level has not changed since fitting.
I do not have a flow meter but i did try the dye trick and zipped down the tube with no issues at all.
Its defo the GPU that is of the main concern, this is connected to the rad at the top of my case, my thoughts after reading all of your guys comments is that as the airflow is too low, the fans mounted to the front rad is not able to blow through enough air to get fresh air to the top rad to blow through and cool the GPU? Is that the right line of thinking or am i talking out my rear end?
Click to expand...
Air flow will always make a difference certainly but at the same time a good loop should not sound like a jet engine either
Are you pushing air through radiators or pulling it through?
Never actually seen a scientifically based post on this so I could also be talking out my rear end here lol
But I prefer to push air through if possible ~might make no difference but pictured in my head it works better
And you can't test without your gpu just to see how cpu only fares since no integrated graphics and pain to take gpu out
I used some quick disconnects so can isolate cpu and gpu from rest of loop so can remove without draining down
 
SkittlesRandom said:
Sounds like the low RPM fans may not be up to snuff then possibly?
Click to expand...

i'd say so bud, one thing you could try is reversing the fans on the front of your case, instead of intake have them expelling heat out the front of the case, if your temps drop slightly it will mean the heat isnt going into the pc, yes it will get hot but ther should be a small diffrence in temps.
in that case then faster rpm fans will be needed for better cooling.

do you have a rear exhaust fan installed?
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Air flow will always make a difference certainly but at the same time a good loop should not sound like a jet engine either
Are you pushing air through radiators or pulling it through?
Never actually seen a scientifically based post on this so I could also be talking out my rear end here lol
But I prefer to push air through if possible ~might make no difference but pictured in my head it works better
And you can't test without your gpu just to see how cpu only fares since no integrated graphics and pain to take gpu out
I used some quick disconnects so can isolate cpu and gpu from rest of loop so can remove without draining down
Click to expand...

I am pushing air through both rads, had an issue with my old NHD14 when pulling air it sounded awful so always push through heatsyncs and radiators nowadays

wookiee87 said:
i'd say so bud, one thing you could try is reversing the fans on the front of your case, instead of intake have them expelling heat out the front of the case, if your temps drop slightly it will mean the heat isnt going into the pc, yes it will get hot but ther should be a small diffrence in temps.
in that case then faster rpm fans will be needed for better cooling.

do you have a rear exhaust fan installed?
Click to expand...

I do not have a rear exhaust fan installed as had an issue with tubing clearance and thought that the airflow from the others would be enough :/

I may give that a go, I also have high RPM fans that were previously installed in my case but these where airflow fans and not Static pressure, is it worth trying these just to see. Obviously i would replace these once i prove this was the issue?

Mcnumpty2323 said:
Forgot to ask
You are expelling the air through top rad?
Not drawing air in?
Click to expand...

I am pushing air from inside the case out through the top rad and out of my pc
 
i only asked about the rear exhaust fan as that will help remove some heat from the interoir of the pc, but if you have pipes in the way then it's not going to be possble to install one there, as before though if you opt for faster rpm fans then the rear exhaust wont be needed, just need good airflow through your case
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Ideally should have a rear exhaust
Mine is there though not turned on but if needed it can be
My case has very good air flow though and plenty places air can escape

Did we actually ask what case you are using?
Click to expand...

Oh sorry i completely forgot to mention that, i use the silverstone pm01
Normal airflow was always really good when using all my components on air to be honest, i did remove the mesh air filter on the front as it was making a rather annoying turbulence noise.

wookiee87 said:
i only asked about the rear exhaust fan as that will help remove some heat from the interoir of the pc, but if you have pipes in the way then it's not going to be possble to install one there, as before though if you opt for faster rpm fans then the rear exhaust wont be needed, just need good airflow through your case
Click to expand...

Ah okay, I could maybe fit a thin one in but if having higher RPM fans sorts the issue then may not worry for the time being
 
Are you able to borrow or repurpose some higher rpm fans to test with ?
Rather than paying out for them
Not saying it won't help though may be at the cost of more noise
But we are talking needing a drastic drop in temps if I remember how hot it was getting
It's hard to think that you really have so little air moving as to account for that much temperature difference
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Are you able to borrow or repurpose some higher rpm fans to test with ?
Rather than paying out for them
Not saying it won't help though may be at the cost of more noise
But we are talking needing a drastic drop in temps if I remember how hot it was getting
It's hard to think that you really have so little air moving as to account for that much temperature difference
Click to expand...

I can try the old 120mms that were in the case to start with, it wont be ideal but they go to 2500rpm so would defo be able to test airflow
 
wookiee87 said:
if the case has a full mesh front then airfow into the case should be very good, at this point i'd say its the fans, they simply arnt fast enough
Click to expand...

Yeah, i think you all may be right, simply too slow to push enough air through the radiators
I will try my old fans and see how that goes and if its better then ill but some noctuas more than likely as they are well worth the money IMO.
 
I'm using a modest setup here, hardware wise, but more rad area.
EK-CoolStream CE 280 Dual Radiator + EKWB CoolStream CE 420 Triple Radiator, push/pull Phanteks PH-F140MP at roughly 40-50% (can't tell exactly as using manual fan controller).
Your rads aren't thick, so I wouldn't expect a decent fan to struggle. Not ideal, maybe, but some reasonable airflow shouldn't allow for such temperatures.
As the rads are getting hot, I'm confident both blocks are mounted correctly, so not an issue of poor contact.
The order of the loop won't give you any noticeable difference, to be fair. Mine goes Pump/Res - CPU - 420 - GPU - 280 - Pump/Res.
The most sensible part of the system is your pump, which can be damaged if the coolant temperature is too high. CPU and GPU will (I hope) throttle.
I'm using the EK-D5 Vario with the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5.
Push/Pull would allow lower rpm, but would really be beneficial with thicker rads.
If the other fans help improving things, I would suggest the cheaper Arctic P12 Static Pressure 120mm PWM PST, which I use 2 of them and they're quiet, as long not on 100%. £22.50 for a pack of 5.
Used the 140mm version before and was pleased with them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom