Parvum: Frosted Designare - Hard fitting installed and tubing plan!
- Thread starter orbitalwalsh
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Best if luck with the power up.
NOW MOVE THE CASE SO IT'S GOT ALL 4 FEET FIRMLY ON THE DESK!!!
haha, didn't even realize that, was in a rush this morning as just fed the first born and left him strapped in his high chair to take some snaps
thanks, just hoping I haven't fired anything with static
Know the feeling - invest in a babybjorn carrier but watch out for projectile vomiting - could cause shorting issueshaha, didn't even realize that, was in a rush this morning as just fed the first born and left him strapped in his high chair to take some snaps
I was wondering about this when you started the build. Must be a sod grounding yourself considering acrylics annoying ability to generate static.
I'm so used to plugging in the PSU and then touching an exposed part of the case i would probably have killed the build ten times over by now doing an acrylic build.
I doubt you'll have problems - i suspect you will have been more careful than most, even with a new baby as a distraction.
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Know the feeling - invest in a babybjorn carrier but watch out for projectile vomiting - could cause shorting issues
I was wondering about this when you started the build. Must be a sod grounding yourself considering acrylics annoying ability to generate static.
I'm so used to plugging in the PSU and then touching an exposed part of the case i would probably have killed the build ten times over by now doing an acrylic build.
I doubt you'll have problems - i suspect you will have been more careful than most, even with a new baby as a distraction.
mmmm careful.... well I have one arm touching the house radiator then touching each side of the case followed by the PCIe bracket then board/parts ... hoping Alphacool Static mat will help would but yeah, really need to be more mind full. Havent really needed to touch the parts as its been parts added to the casing- but ordered polish which should help against static and need to sort out a static wrist band I think
****STATIC BAND ORDERED HAHAHA
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well, it turned on 
although I've found if I have to turn the PSU off at the back then turn it back on, takes a while to be able to switch on the system... not sure if this is due to static being built up with the Acrylic??
pics are poor but used my phone before bed .
Didn't expect the Frosted panels to light up so much least I wont need RGB strips of fans - just looking forward to getting ride of the frosted framed side window, really spoils the look 
last spam of Pics and then its all to water cool which will take a while .
If anyone is interested in Frosted Panel..... damn !
although I've found if I have to turn the PSU off at the back then turn it back on, takes a while to be able to switch on the system... not sure if this is due to static being built up with the Acrylic??
pics are poor but used my phone before bed .
Didn't expect the Frosted panels to light up so much
least I wont need RGB strips of fans - just looking forward to getting ride of the frosted framed side window, really spoils the look last spam of Pics and then its all to water cool which will take a while .
If anyone is interested in Frosted Panel..... damn !
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Units are 56mm but have 45mm rads inside will act as a nice shroud and 45s allowing for some good water temps
Thanks
Need to install win10 then get CPU de-lid , test then on to water
Quick phone snap of how the main side panel should look like when correct thickness clear panel .
Just took the frosted frame panel out and mounted the thin clear with thumb screws .
Looks much more cleaner
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Associate
Great post!
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Managed to mate the Alphacool GPX heatsink to the Aorus GTX 1080 Extreme with stock backplate last night.... no idea if it works until I plumb it in by its self.
Have a spare eisbecher with DDC pump and some soft tubing so will attach to the bottom rad and remove the front for some space to work with.
In the GPX guide you'll see there is a 2-3 M3x8 bolts and the rest are longer M3X11 which is used to clamp the block and backplate the the PCB. The few 8mm are used to secure the block to the pcb allowing your to get the backplate into position to lock it all down... that I used 8mm bolts all around to pull the Block into the PCB.
From the pictures you'll see its secure, doesn't move and thermal pads are slightly squished which is good! but unsure on the contact with the Die. The Aorus Extreme backplate is slightly raised higher so I planned ahead and had ordered 10mm bolts as well.
I'll remove one bolt from the VRM and GPU section and if the 10mm bolts to 100% tight like the 8mm did, I know there was some height play still left with the 8mm bolts used and will swap them out. If its tightened and there's a gap with the 10mm or wiggle play then I know the bolt is too long and not pulling the block tight to the PCB .
That might be a weekend job so wish me luck!
Also included pics of the GPU support which does look nice with the lighting off the board kicks in and Hi Res snaps before the GPU got its new coat on.
Installation !
Heatsink off by removing the 4 screws around the Die and the 3 around the VRM- the board is slightly different to the Xtreme Gaming version with two chip located underneath the Die were as the X Gaming had them by the IO ports. Instructions stated these needed thermal pads so used thicker pads to make contact with the block- sorted!
In the GPX instructions it tells you to removal all screws, and that includes the ones used to secure the PCB to the backplate- I wanted to keep the backplate on so removed the to standard offs that would clash with the preinstalled securing screws
As you can see, contact! the Pads are in contact with the block and chips but if I can recall installing previous GPX's it was a bit more squished - so think i'll give the 10mm a go to see if it becomes tighter . no warping of the board unlike the last one I did with the vrms being done to tight and bending the board
Into the case it goes !
Believing it would look better if it was all stripped back to bare Aluminum but then the build looses its "as bought" design
Lovely Cold Zero GPU Support with Aorus logo
and last but not least, Hi-Res shots of the system lit up on air
got to love the way the Clear Frosted panels glow with the boards lighting- no need for RGB strip kits here! case is the lighting strip!
Cant wait for the correct main side panel to appear, having to use the slimmer clear panel that came with the frosted board panel to get a feel of the look
Have a spare eisbecher with DDC pump and some soft tubing so will attach to the bottom rad and remove the front for some space to work with.
In the GPX guide you'll see there is a 2-3 M3x8 bolts and the rest are longer M3X11 which is used to clamp the block and backplate the the PCB. The few 8mm are used to secure the block to the pcb allowing your to get the backplate into position to lock it all down... that I used 8mm bolts all around to pull the Block into the PCB.
From the pictures you'll see its secure, doesn't move and thermal pads are slightly squished which is good! but unsure on the contact with the Die. The Aorus Extreme backplate is slightly raised higher so I planned ahead and had ordered 10mm bolts as well.
I'll remove one bolt from the VRM and GPU section and if the 10mm bolts to 100% tight like the 8mm did, I know there was some height play still left with the 8mm bolts used and will swap them out. If its tightened and there's a gap with the 10mm or wiggle play then I know the bolt is too long and not pulling the block tight to the PCB .
That might be a weekend job so wish me luck!
Also included pics of the GPU support which does look nice with the lighting off the board kicks in and Hi Res snaps before the GPU got its new coat on.
Installation !
Heatsink off by removing the 4 screws around the Die and the 3 around the VRM- the board is slightly different to the Xtreme Gaming version with two chip located underneath the Die were as the X Gaming had them by the IO ports. Instructions stated these needed thermal pads so used thicker pads to make contact with the block- sorted!
In the GPX instructions it tells you to removal all screws, and that includes the ones used to secure the PCB to the backplate- I wanted to keep the backplate on so removed the to standard offs that would clash with the preinstalled securing screws
As you can see, contact! the Pads are in contact with the block and chips but if I can recall installing previous GPX's it was a bit more squished - so think i'll give the 10mm a go to see if it becomes tighter . no warping of the board unlike the last one I did with the vrms being done to tight and bending the board
Into the case it goes !
Believing it would look better if it was all stripped back to bare Aluminum but then the build looses its "as bought" design
Lovely Cold Zero GPU Support with Aorus logo
and last but not least, Hi-Res shots of the system lit up on air
got to love the way the Clear Frosted panels glow with the boards lighting- no need for RGB strip kits here! case is the lighting strip!
Cant wait for the correct main side panel to appear, having to use the slimmer clear panel that came with the frosted board panel to get a feel of the look
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Managed to get GPU test loop plumbed in whilst son was eating breakfast .
Nothing fancy , bottom 240 rad and soft tubing , had to remove from rad and fans which is ok as new front and side panels arrive Wednesday
Thought of using some Pre-made clear Mayhem's liquid but never used pastel or dyes and have 3 off litres of their white with due so may experiment
GPU test loop
https://imgur.com/gallery/z4tqS
If all goes to plan , de-lid and metal up the i7 7700k and test on bequiet Shadow rock slim before moving onto water
Nothing fancy , bottom 240 rad and soft tubing , had to remove from rad and fans which is ok as new front and side panels arrive Wednesday
Thought of using some Pre-made clear Mayhem's liquid but never used pastel or dyes and have 3 off litres of their white with due so may experiment
GPU test loop
https://imgur.com/gallery/z4tqS
If all goes to plan , de-lid and metal up the i7 7700k and test on bequiet Shadow rock slim before moving onto water
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- 18,514
Success !
but of course the proof is in the pudding
Was really seeing for low temps or high temps, what I was looking for is a pike from Idle to card hitting thermal limit to see if the contact from the GPX Block to the PCB via the stock backplate was good.... and it was!
If anyone is looking to watercool the Aorus cards 70/80/Ti and wanting to keep the back plate on the cheap, you'll need 6mm 3M bolts/screws for the 4 mounting points and 8mm 3M for the VRM using Alphacools GPX Block
Few Hi-res snap shots of the 13/10mm test loop, also gives as idea of what the Eisbrecher Res/pump looks like in a Parvum case as 90% of them are always EKWB- Also have a taller 300mm res tube to try to see if it can get the unit to span the whole height of the case
might have a play around with the blue dye but wondering if I should add Grey instead??? LED will be set to blue
but of course the proof is in the pudding
Was really seeing for low temps or high temps, what I was looking for is a pike from Idle to card hitting thermal limit to see if the contact from the GPX Block to the PCB via the stock backplate was good.... and it was!
If anyone is looking to watercool the Aorus cards 70/80/Ti and wanting to keep the back plate on the cheap, you'll need 6mm 3M bolts/screws for the 4 mounting points and 8mm 3M for the VRM using Alphacools GPX Block
Few Hi-res snap shots of the 13/10mm test loop, also gives as idea of what the Eisbrecher Res/pump looks like in a Parvum case as 90% of them are always EKWB- Also have a taller 300mm res tube to try to see if it can get the unit to span the whole height of the case
might have a play around with the blue dye but wondering if I should add Grey instead??? LED will be set to blue
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bit of colour play at lunch = phone pics
might need it a bit darker, firstly to match LED on board although would be easier to set water colour then match it software wise, secondly I think the Frosted tubing will fade down some of the colour in contrast to the glass tubing
might need it a bit darker, firstly to match LED on board although would be easier to set water colour then match it software wise, secondly I think the Frosted tubing will fade down some of the colour in contrast to the glass tubing
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De-lidded the i7 7700k last night in a bit of a rush.... must put this out there that's not the smartest idea!
Didn't help the fact the plunger was stiff so instead of a lovely pin head blob on the Die, out came a GM Pea size accident ! Luckily it was all on the die- but man the stuff has a weird structure to it *Thermal Grizzlie Conductonaut * and removing 2/3rds of it proved to be fun!
Seems temps when loading Unigine Valley dropped by 18c and Intel Xtreme Stress Test was 10c - mind this was at stock temps .
Also received a larger Res Tube which should look better visually in the case then the smaller one , just hoping it fits fine as its the older model
Didn't help the fact the plunger was stiff so instead of a lovely pin head blob on the Die, out came a GM Pea size accident ! Luckily it was all on the die- but man the stuff has a weird structure to it *Thermal Grizzlie Conductonaut * and removing 2/3rds of it proved to be fun!
Seems temps when loading Unigine Valley dropped by 18c and Intel Xtreme Stress Test was 10c - mind this was at stock temps .
Also received a larger Res Tube which should look better visually in the case then the smaller one , just hoping it fits fine as its the older model
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Some De-lid numbers using bequiet! Shadow Rock Slim
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £47.34
(includes shipping: £7.39)
Full spread
Voltage set to 1.36v at the moment - load line to max , looks like its been a success and fan profile for the cooler is "normal" via Gigabyte command centre so no playing around with custom speeds - Room temp 21c
New to de-lidding so just seeing what peoples view on the results? Looks to be a success specially if Monitoring is recording the Vcore at 1.4v max!
Completely forgot to test OC before doing the de-lid! running stock would see temps in the 90s with intel turn test and 70s running Unigine , after de-lid on stock is was 70s for Intel Xtreme and 50s with Uni
My basket at Overclockers UK:
- 1 x be quiet! Shadow Rock Slim= £39.95
Total: £47.34
(includes shipping: £7.39)
Full spread
Voltage set to 1.36v at the moment - load line to max , looks like its been a success and fan profile for the cooler is "normal" via Gigabyte command centre so no playing around with custom speeds - Room temp 21c
New to de-lidding so just seeing what peoples view on the results? Looks to be a success specially if Monitoring is recording the Vcore at 1.4v max!
Completely forgot to test OC before doing the de-lid! running stock would see temps in the 90s with intel turn test and 70s running Unigine , after de-lid on stock is was 70s for Intel Xtreme and 50s with Uni
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Introducing Alphacool's Eisblock! damn- looks good in Plexi although wishing I polished it up a little ...
Should be getting some cheapy Barrow soft tube compressions today so I can add the block to the test loop. Also the taller Res top worked on a spare Eisbecher bump unit I had so should fill the height void a bit better
Just waiting on Parvum for the New panels to get everything to line up together for the hard tubing
*****
and yes- realized It was mounted up-side down for text so re-did it. least I could confirm the mounting and paste spread was spot on
*****
was also thinking about a back cover for the motherboard- Purpose was to display the board- its logo/ colour and LED but just like every LED kit the lighting is to harsh and needs a diffuser!
Like how the Frosted panels acts as a Case diffuser I thought Back cover go pull the same trick as well as showing off the back of the board.
Got looking at where the LED lights are, Parvum cube mounts as well as the Logo Design and came up with this
Green lines could be scores into the Frost Acrylic to match Patterns at the front of the board and allow stronger light to see through.
That or leave it plain- not sure on thickness as well . Peoples thoughts ?
Should be getting some cheapy Barrow soft tube compressions today so I can add the block to the test loop. Also the taller Res top worked on a spare Eisbecher bump unit I had so should fill the height void a bit better
Just waiting on Parvum for the New panels to get everything to line up together for the hard tubing
*****
and yes- realized It was mounted up-side down for text so re-did it. least I could confirm the mounting and paste spread was spot on
*****
was also thinking about a back cover for the motherboard- Purpose was to display the board- its logo/ colour and LED but just like every LED kit the lighting is to harsh and needs a diffuser!
Like how the Frosted panels acts as a Case diffuser I thought Back cover go pull the same trick as well as showing off the back of the board.
Got looking at where the LED lights are, Parvum cube mounts as well as the Logo Design and came up with this
Green lines could be scores into the Frost Acrylic to match Patterns at the front of the board and allow stronger light to see through.
That or leave it plain- not sure on thickness as well . Peoples thoughts ?
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Under water
Although just the test loop. Unfortunately its taking 1.4v+ to get the 7700k stable at 5Ghz, might have to play around with a few other settings .
Asus Real Bench CPU hits 70c, Intel Extreme Stress it hits 60c and Unigine Benching it hits 50c at the above voltage and clock speed- loop is just a 240x 45mm rad but full set up will add another 360x 45mm into the mix.
Unhindered access to view the CPU area
****
edited the images on Imgur and noticed the quality had dropped damn
Although just the test loop. Unfortunately its taking 1.4v+ to get the 7700k stable at 5Ghz, might have to play around with a few other settings .
Asus Real Bench CPU hits 70c, Intel Extreme Stress it hits 60c and Unigine Benching it hits 50c at the above voltage and clock speed- loop is just a 240x 45mm rad but full set up will add another 360x 45mm into the mix.
Unhindered access to view the CPU area
****
edited the images on Imgur and noticed the quality had dropped
damn
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Associate
blues my favourite colour so loving the build more . waterblock looks great
Man of Honour
Looks great , just think you gotta add another 240 rad to the loop at the top of the case.
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Thanks, not bad for a first attempt on the GPU
saw it happening with the EK blocks and Phanteks offer it without any extras needed so wanted to see how the alphacool blocks would pan out- turns out its just 4 extra m3 screws , being a bit shorter in lengththanks
do have a spare 30mm 240 rad but would be a bit over kill and would require more planning for the routing lolalso have Alphacools PCIe m.2 heatsink = cheaper version of Heatkillers . But is the passive version
Going to be a tight set up, as I won't be going SLi , I want the ability to use 3 NVMe - this would be the bottom slot, the top 16x slot and the m.2 slot. Make life easier for myself in adding a 3rd, will need to make the m.2 slot free so I'm on the hunt for a Mini PCI m.2 to shoe horn in at the bottom. The Rads barb blocks me from using Alphas version there as its high & short rather then short and long. I do have the bottom panel reordered with the 240 moved closer to the PCI bracket. Could allow me to spin the rad 180 and have the barbs facing the front of the case , which would allow a fancier adaptor .
The GPU will be moved to the 8x slot- since its Gen 3 not really an impact on speeds - a bonus is the Aorus GPU bracket will sit flush on the bottom rad making the card rock solid and no sag
another bonus is the alumin heatsink of the waterblock will sit closer to the bottom airflow
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