[PIC_THREAD] Macro

There are definitely times I want more light. Especially as I generally hand hold. Both the shots of mine on this page would have been missed if I was on a tripod

I was looking at getting the Mt 24ex
 
al4x said:
There are definitely times I want more light. Especially as I generally hand hold. Both the shots of mine on this page would have been missed if I was on a tripod

I was looking at getting the Mt 24ex
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Yeah I wouldn't mind something like that but I need to curb my photography spending lol. I think I might get a YN-600EX-RT when they finally start selling them and then I might try to get some kind of diffuser setup.

It seems whatever flash you have, you'll feel it needs better diffusion!

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=m...jZ0QWtwIDQCA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1112&bih=947
 
Something other than an insect for a change :p

5D3_3728.jpg
 
Abraxaz1 said:
I need a better lens but this is the best I could do with my current rig..
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Are those quite heavy crops or is that the lens as it is? Apertures of F22 and F32 definitely won't help keep your shots sharp and neither will long exposures. I take it these were on a tripod or have you got freakishly steady hands? :D

Anyway, I'd try to keep the aperture where your lens is sharpest and if you're not sure what that is for your lens in particular, I can tell you that it's rarely at such small apertures so you'll want to keep it at F16 or wider. That will give you sharper shots that don't require such long exposures.

Other than that, you can work on your lighting if you want to improve without getting new kit. It's a hard one to practise unless you've got flashes etc but if you can get the right kind of light then this certainly makes a shot better. These shots like they were take in the shade or on a cloudy day and it's very hard, if not impossible to change this in processing so it's always worth bearing in mind.
 
Phal said:
Are those quite heavy crops or is that the lens as it is? Apertures of F22 and F32 definitely won't help keep your shots sharp and neither will long exposures. I take it these were on a tripod or have you got freakishly steady hands? :D

Anyway, I'd try to keep the aperture where your lens is sharpest and if you're not sure what that is for your lens in particular, I can tell you that it's rarely at such small apertures so you'll want to keep it at F16 or wider. That will give you sharper shots that don't require such long exposures.

Other than that, you can work on your lighting if you want to improve without getting new kit. It's a hard one to practise unless you've got flashes etc but if you can get the right kind of light then this certainly makes a shot better. These shots like they were take in the shade or on a cloudy day and it's very hard, if not impossible to change this in processing so it's always worth bearing in mind.
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i actually dont know where the optimal aperture is on my 100mm L
either on paper or on my copy
something i should look at

i usually find i use Tv to specify a speed.

in the grand scheme of things i prefer a really sharp shot, even it it is only a cm or two DoF
if i lack light, its the aperture which gets opened

problem is, if its windy its impossible due to narrow DoF

edit,
just looked, looks like i generally use the optimal for this lens and my body around 4 to 11 usually.
its more for needing the light to achieve the speed though
 
Last edited:
al4x said:
i actually dont know where the optimal aperture is on my 100mm L
either on paper or on my copy
something i should look at

i usually find i use Tv to specify a speed.

in the grand scheme of things i prefer a really sharp shot, even it it is only a cm or two DoF
if i lack light, its the aperture which gets opened

problem is, if its windy its impossible due to narrow DoF

edit,
just looked, looks like i generally use the optimal for this lens and my body around 4 to 11 usually.
its more for needing the light to achieve the speed though
Click to expand...


I guess it's good to know what your lens can do. Even if you don't always stick to it, it does help you in figuring out what might work and what might not. Tiny aperture will never give you the sharpest picture in the world but sometimes they're a necessity if there's some insanely bright light or you desperately need bigger DOF. Luckily the 100mm F2.8L is damn sharp so you can afford to lose a little :D

TV mode can be handy if you're wanting a particular exposure but you're then at the mercy of the cameras metering. I'm usually in AV/TV but sometimes they're far from ideal when the conditions start to change.
 
Phal said:
I guess it's good to know what your lens can do. Even if you don't always stick to it, it does help you in figuring out what might work and what might not. Tiny aperture will never give you the sharpest picture in the world but sometimes they're a necessity if there's some insanely bright light or you desperately need bigger DOF. Luckily the 100mm F2.8L is damn sharp so you can afford to lose a little :D

TV mode can be handy if you're wanting a particular exposure but you're then at the mercy of the cameras metering. I'm usually in AV/TV but sometimes they're far from ideal when the conditions start to change.
Click to expand...

If it's a Creature that is unlikely to move or I have time I will use M. But often I need some help. Literally due to time. Usually I can correct in post sub optimal lighting.

Being very novice these threads are often useful for handy tips
 
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