Certainly can try to help where possible. Only point i will make though is that unless you are electrically savvy and can solder, really old kit is out as it'll need servicing to get the best from it. By old i'd say pre 1992 roughly, but it'd depend on things like the quality of components used and how hot the unit has been running.
Loudness is merely a boost of 6-12dB at 60-100Hz. This is usually linked to a centre tapping on old style volume controls (actual potentiometer based rather than digital rotary encoder) This means that the loudness effect reduces as the volume is turned up. (once you pass a certain point it will have no effect.
Best advice i can give you at this point is to go to your local hifi dealer that has an audition room and listen to a few different amps / speakers and find brands that you like the sound of. Most brands will have a sonic signature and there is a certain degree of harmony between the speakers and the amp. (symbiosis) For example, my kef speakers don't work too well with my dad's leak amp, yet the amp works exceptionally well with the celestion speakers he has. My luxman amp is fine driving either, even both at the same time in parallel across the outputs.
I don't see how they can squeeze a decent class A/B amp into something so small and still leave adequate volume for the speaker to operate in. They are quite sketchy on the amplifier details in the spec list merely quoting 30W for the woofer and 15W for the tweeter. Are they saying that the crossover is active and there are in fact two separate amps with their own power supplies? There are no distortion figures for quoted power nor do they state whether the quoted power is RMS or peak. Maybe i'm too much of a sceptic, but i like details and lots of it. Heck back in the old days they used to plot amplifier characteristics graphically was far simpler to understand vs a bombardment of numbers and various quoting methods. (Din, IHF-A, EISA etc and so forth)
For example this is the inside of my amp which produces 50W per channel. The main power supply reservoir caps are nearly as big as the amp module in those rokits. In any case, with problems like
this and
this, it's obvious they aren't exactly using the best capacitors. (i mean at least mine had the decency to last over 30 years before showing signs of deterioration) As far as i can tell the main reservoir caps for the power supply are a pair of 2200uF which i'd consider very lean minimum i'd want at the quoted power level is 6800uF and i'd prefer 10,000uF. Mine has 15,000uF per channel, the leak (35Wpc has 10k and the quad 50Wpc has 18.8k).