I get that, but in case they were the cause of drop outs, i wasn't going to replace Cat6 with the same, i thought may as well upgrade because the cost difference is negligible.
Possible Faulty switch
- Thread starter Papaya777s
- Start date
Soldato
I haven't read all the thread here, so I am probably off the mark, but...
At first I listened to the hype surrounding those cheapo Chinese switches, but now I am starting to have serious doubts about them. If you search the internet then you will find all sorts of reports of weird stuff happening with them.
My recommendation here would be to try a decent switch, just buy it from a company you can return it, if it makes no difference.
Oh, also, just in passing, have you upgraded that Asus router to Merlin?
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Perhaps you should have taken the time to read the subsequent posts before commenting? Allow me to summarise so you don't make the same mistake again. You are wrong. It's not the switch/router, op neglected to mention the structured cabling that has now been shown to be sub standard. Your recommendation is therefore wrong, as any 2.5Gb switch tried has exhibited the same issue and 3rd party firmware for the router that's been returned was also not going to help.
Side note: I've moved over 1.2PB+ via Chinese switches just at home at this point with zero issues, they tend to use the same Realtek chipsets as found in much more expensive options and are seemingly reasonably well designed and built, though like anything it'll be a few years time before we can call that. Issues almost always seem to be user/cable/NIC/client/protocol from what I have seen, just as in this case.
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Soldato
Wow. Could you be more rude?
If my advice is not relevant then ignore it. I mean, seriously, if you feel the need to go around correcting everyone in the world then you need to buy some chill-out pills!!
And you need to start reading reviews, because a lot of people do have weird issues with those switches. Sure, I think the majority of people are happy with them, but plenty of people do have problems. That's why I have decided not to buy one. If you wish to ignore those personal findings then that's fine by me!
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I'm genuinely sorry that the irony of questioning if I could be more rude when you disregarded 40+ posts just so you could crap post your obviously - to anyone that had read them - incorrect opinion is lost on you.Wow. Could you be more rude?
If my advice is not relevant then ignore it. I mean, seriously, if you feel the need to go around correcting everyone in the world then you need to buy some chill-out pills!!
And you need to start reading reviews, because a lot of people do have weird issues with those switches. Sure, I think the majority of people are happy with them, but plenty of people do have problems. That's why I have decided not to buy one. If you wish to ignore those personal findings then that's fine by me!
As to reading 'reviews' i'm not sure what you're trying to get at? Should I disregard actual testing/reviews from credible and long trusted sources, along with my own first hand experience/testing in preference to the opinions of others who are of unknown experience/background and have issues that I and anyone else I know who runs them can't replicate? Or perhaps I should listen to you, who openly admits to not bothering to read things, never having used the product being discussed, but is happy to throw out vague references to non specific 'weird issues' experienced by a 'lot of people' that you have managed to read, and has what i'll politely describe as zero credibility at this stage? I mean you do you, but my way works a lot better for me
Anyway, now we've got that out the way, all we need is @Papaya777s to put us out of our misery, it's working perfectly when you run cables directly avoiding the faceplates isn't it? Assuming the faceplates have enough slack behind them, either re-terminate them or replace the face plates with something of known quality, if you don't fancy it, call the local networking guy and he'll likely have access to a fluke or similar to see what's actually going on. My main concern is that if it was done on the cheap, that whoever did it used CCA to save a few quid and in that case, this may not be a termination issue.
HALLELUJAH!! I've fixed it!! Soooo to follow on from previous.....the Zyxel 8 x 2.5gb port switch started dropping out within 45min -90mins of connecting, Same with the TP-LINK, The QNAP 2x 10gb and 4 x 2.5gb port switch had the LEAST drop outs, it would drop out 4x roughly in a 24hr period. Now i had tried this PCI Nic.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08V1HG47H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But not with every switch....wish i had....but hey ho, it got returned after dropping out on the original BrosTrend switch. NOW please remember throughout all of this .....there are 2 PCs connected to every switch....mine AND my brothers....HE HAs an Asus Z690 mobo with 2.5gb LAN port....he has NOT HAD ANY drop outs on any switch, switch/router combo, cables etc.. throughout this whole swapping and testing process, every time ive made a change on mine ive tested it on his and he just hasnt had any drop outs either way! Also, like anyone else i've been googling oogling my brain out....saw a brief thread somewhere where someone purchased a 10gbps PCI-e nic specifically a NICGIGA branded one to solve their drop outs on a 1gb LAN port, can't remember which motherboard, anyhoooo....back to amazon we go....NICGIGA 10gb pci nic comes from US so will take 2 weeks to deliver....so i order that but the NICGIGA 2.5gb nic is available for next day delivery.....so i thought....lets give it a go just for the heck of it, at this point i'll try anything! That turned up on Tues/Wed. Connected it up today ran pings for 5hrs....NO DROP OUTS!!
ONce again...just to rewind a little bit....My original Cat6 cable was 20m or so....only needed 10 but kept the excess rolled up under the desk for eventualities like these! And it came in handy, we plugged my brothers PC into my wall socket (hes only in the room next door)....NO DROP OUTS!! Also, i had my doubts about the cabling in the walls being an issue, it was all done when we had the house refurbished in 2019, all off the same reel, if i had an issue it was likely he would have had an issue. So i then ran the cable from my PC straight to the switch and this is when my drop outs would stop (in 2.5gb full duplex mode). However, if connected to my own wall jack/RJ45 port i could stop drop outs by running in 1gb full duplex.
So it was handy having a 2nd PC that is soooo reliable to test different components/combos etc. throughout this whole process. IN THE END...........THE NICGIGA 2.5gb PCI-E NIC has resolved the issue! I will keep testing....and then when the 10gb one turns up, will switch to that and test....but its looking like the 10gb one will be going back as it is £100 vs the 2.5gb £21, however i'm tempted as the QNAP switch has 10gb ports and i could make use of it although i most definitely dont need 10gb LOL https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BFPWSMV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09HGRK5XB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (THE LIFE SAVER!)
Sorry forgot to mention i am currently back on the EE SMART HUB PLUS router. The TP LINK ARcHER is still on back order and will be delivered by the 20th or so.....so im prayign everything still works once that arrives and is all set up and connected! Of course i will keep you all posted on my findings! I've never had a connectivity issue like this in my life, this is like my 8th PC build in my life, never experienced anything like it!
ONce again...just to rewind a little bit....My original Cat6 cable was 20m or so....only needed 10 but kept the excess rolled up under the desk for eventualities like these! And it came in handy, we plugged my brothers PC into my wall socket (hes only in the room next door)....NO DROP OUTS!! Also, i had my doubts about the cabling in the walls being an issue, it was all done when we had the house refurbished in 2019, all off the same reel, if i had an issue it was likely he would have had an issue. So i then ran the cable from my PC straight to the switch and this is when my drop outs would stop (in 2.5gb full duplex mode). However, if connected to my own wall jack/RJ45 port i could stop drop outs by running in 1gb full duplex.
So it was handy having a 2nd PC that is soooo reliable to test different components/combos etc. throughout this whole process. IN THE END...........THE NICGIGA 2.5gb PCI-E NIC has resolved the issue! I will keep testing....and then when the 10gb one turns up, will switch to that and test....but its looking like the 10gb one will be going back as it is £100 vs the 2.5gb £21, however i'm tempted as the QNAP switch has 10gb ports and i could make use of it although i most definitely dont need 10gb LOL https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BFPWSMV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09HGRK5XB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (THE LIFE SAVER!)
Sorry forgot to mention i am currently back on the EE SMART HUB PLUS router. The TP LINK ARcHER is still on back order and will be delivered by the 20th or so.....so im prayign everything still works once that arrives and is all set up and connected! Of course i will keep you all posted on my findings! I've never had a connectivity issue like this in my life, this is like my 8th PC build in my life, never experienced anything like it!
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I can't see any mention of a test with the suspect PC connected to the wall port in the other room, so my suspicion is that the structured cabling is faulty but the tolerance of the new NIC is masking it and holding the link up.
Structured cabling that is installed and tested with a little continuity tester might work fine, but if it hasn't been verified with proper testers then it's not to any sort of category cabling standard, it's just a 4-pair cable in a wall.
Structured cabling that is installed and tested with a little continuity tester might work fine, but if it hasn't been verified with proper testers then it's not to any sort of category cabling standard, it's just a 4-pair cable in a wall.
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That is something i did not do because im not moving a full size XL case and my dual 49" curved monitors...too much hassle. But as for the cable in the walls i supplied a 100m reel of Cat6 so its definitely ethernet/network cabling. But how is it that my brothers PC doesnt have any drop outs when he is connected to my wall port, and he runs at 2.5gb full duplex
Well its hard to say because the port does work and doesnt drop out at 1gb full duplex when connected to my wall port but also doesnt drop out at 2.5gb when connected directly to the switch.
And i swapped out my MSI MAG Tomahawk Z690 for an MSI MAG Tomahawk Z790 to see if it was a faulty Lan/mobo and still had drop outs
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Why would you have to move monitors to plug a PC into a port in another room? Also you've already plugged your brothers PC into your wall port so you have a cable long enough to do that distance, just use that long cable to plug your PC into your brothers wall port. I swear you're making this far more complicated than it deserves.
The switch is in my brothers room so he is directly into the switch. But there is a wall port that feeds the switch, which is the switch 'input'. i suppose i could, but because i went directly into the switch i thought there was no point.
The wall port in my brothers room is what comes up from the router downstairs, and is currently feeding from a 1gb LAN port on the router, so most likely it will work. ive just plugged into it, and this edit is being sent from the wall port in my brothers room, as suggested. BUt im convinced it will be fine as it is a 1gb connection, im connected via my mobo LAN port, will report back later.
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Im going to attempt to show the layout in pics and words LOL Im no artist or network architect by any means LOL here we go (EXCUSE THE MESS)
The Layout
Ground floor
2nd floor rooms
Brothers PC + Switch + Wall Port
Wall port in my room
Switch + Wall Port + AP all in Bros room
The thought process behind the 'network layout' was to have 1 LAN port off the router feed 1 floor of the house with a switch on every floor to feed all the APs and sockets. So 1 cable from 1 port goes to 1 floor which then feeds a switch, and that switch then feeds all the ports on that floor (one in every room and on landings). That was the thinking at the time, whether it was a good idea or not, i still dont know! LOL
And the thinking behind that was to spread the 'load' across the ports rather than having 1 port getting absolutely hammered....again not super knowledgable on the inner workings of routers/switches but was i along the right lines? Would it have been better to have just 1 switch coming off 1 router port which then fed the whole house?
The Layout
Ground floor
2nd floor rooms
Brothers PC + Switch + Wall Port
Wall port in my room
Switch + Wall Port + AP all in Bros room
The thought process behind the 'network layout' was to have 1 LAN port off the router feed 1 floor of the house with a switch on every floor to feed all the APs and sockets. So 1 cable from 1 port goes to 1 floor which then feeds a switch, and that switch then feeds all the ports on that floor (one in every room and on landings). That was the thinking at the time, whether it was a good idea or not, i still dont know! LOL
And the thinking behind that was to spread the 'load' across the ports rather than having 1 port getting absolutely hammered....again not super knowledgable on the inner workings of routers/switches but was i along the right lines? Would it have been better to have just 1 switch coming off 1 router port which then fed the whole house?
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These are contradictory, sorry I'm out of this thread. It's impossible to try and troubleshoot a moving target.
Ive put pictures to try and help it make sense.
This is where the 'electrician' slightly messed up.....the other end of my wall port is the gray cable coming out from under the faceplate in my brothers room
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/200451348@N03" title=""><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53651404480_12eaac9b1d_c.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt=""/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
IMGUR IS NOT WORKING...uuuggghh!!
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Don
Three things of note here.
1. I wouldn't touch brotrends/nicgiga with a bargepole.
2. Don't face your switch ports upwards if wall mounting, they'll fill with dust etc.
3. Best not to daisy chain switches too deep. I'd get one big one of a decent brand and run cables.
1. I wouldn't touch brotrends/nicgiga with a bargepole.
2. Don't face your switch ports upwards if wall mounting, they'll fill with dust etc.
3. Best not to daisy chain switches too deep. I'd get one big one of a decent brand and run cables.
Associate
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- 2 Sep 2013
- Posts
- 1,996
As mentioned by others, providing the cable for installation doesn't mean issues can't have developed during fitting/installation. As you would not know if during installation anyone was being too rough with it, or if there was any micro damage to the cable when it was bent too far, etc. Which your last post photo shows you are using some seriously small radius for bending the cable from behind the wallplate - it's also not how you should be using that wallplate at all; as it is structured (and especially if solid core), it should be leading to another wall plate and you connect to that new wallplates socket, not use the other end of the cable from a wall plate to connect to. It's fine if done proper, but when not, it can lead to trouble and even then only for temporary use only. As the constant movement will eventually dislodge it from the connections in the socket in the wallplate.
All of this subsquently could leave it in a state where, depending on your network gear (and remember, even the same piece of hardware could have variances due to manufacturing) could mean due to the damage, your network gear may or may not be able to hold the connection properly. This is why many here were saying you want that checked out proper first. Because having a higher fault tolerance on newer gear doesn't mean the fault isn't there and over time doesn't develop from the intial issue from the cable and get worse. You're only going to end up doing the same thing at some point down the line again.
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Also, unfortuantely, the diagram and photo's you've provided don't show how everything is connected. And the photo's don't show enough where we can reverse engineer a picture out from it and know what's going on. How exactly (for example) does your wallplate connection reach your brothers room? Because from the photo's available, there's no way to tell. If it's fitted inside the walls itself, where is the other end in your brothers room? Or is it going from your room down to the ground floors network room and then back up? In which case, where does the connecting point in your brothers room come from? All of these details impact on checking where potential issues are arising.
However, given the state of that wallplate connection in your brothers room, I imagine the fault is likely there if that then transfers over to your room.
Deleted member 266365
D
Deleted member 266365
All I can think to say is what a bloody mess!
The person installing that data cabling not realising you can get a double module outlet and having the cable just exit the wall with a plug crimped on the end has convinced me that all the problems are with the terminations of these cable runs.
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Don
Yup.
This screams of electrician said "I've not done infrastructure before, I'll give it a go"
Should be 24 port patch panel in a central location, with one or two ports being ran from the fibre/BT/virgin point of entry to that panel.