Your first (very bad) diag had another floor, there were access points, additional switches and no mention of structured wiring etc. Without the full picture people are just guessing and the goal posts keep moving and yes a faulty piece of equipment e.g. an access point can cause drop outs on other parts of the network.
“when i plug directly into the switch in the diagram i get no drop outs”
If I take this at face value there are four remaining variables:
1. The faceplate in your room.
2. The cable run between the faceplate in your room and the faceplate in your brothers room.
3. The patch cables between the faceplates and your PC / the switch.
4. The port you are connecting to on the switch in your brothers room.
1&2 – Every socket and RJ45 plug the “electrician” terminated needs to be re-terminated by someone that is competent. Its called twisted pair for a reason only the very end of the cable is supposed to be untwisted when you terminate the cable. Multiple people in this thread have told you the wiring is bad.
If you’re lucky there will be enough slack in the cable to do this after cutting the end off it also assumes the cable run hasn’t been damaged somewhere; otherwise you will need to run new cables at which point I suggest you run 3 new Cat 6 or 6a cables from your floor to the ground floor.
3 – In some pics you show a flat cable from your PC but in the ones where you bypass the structured cabling and cable direct to the switch you use a round cable. Perfectly understandable if the flat cable isn’t long enough or is routed under carpets etc. But its another variable and the flat cable could be bad even if it worked at 1 Gbps.
4 – When using the structured cabling the downstairs uplink and your PC are using the 10Gb ports on the switch and you are probably using the 2.5 Gb ports when testing with a direct cable. Yes the 10 Gb ports should auto negotiate and run at 2.5 but its another variable, nothing you have runs at 10Gb so just use the 2.5Gb ports.
You have Cat 5E cables in your wall the spec says they will run at 1Gbps at up to 100 meters, Cat 6 10Gbps at 33-55 meters, Cat 6A 10Gbps up to 100 meters.
The newer 2.5Gbps standard is designed to run on older cabling that can’t run at the full 10Gbps without having to rewire entire buildings so if your Cat 5e cabling had been installed correctly it would have “probably” worked. There are even people running 10Gbps on short runs of Cat5E (out of spec) but your wiring is some of the skankiest **** I’ve ever seen.
If you don’t want to pay someone £400+ a day to re-terminate and possibly run new cables then drill a hole in the wall between your rooms and poke the cable you are using for testing through the wall and plug it straight in to the switch (same as you are doing now but with the benefit of being able to close your doors).
- Regards
A former IT Operations Manager that would sometimes install the odd network socket but usually sub contracted the work because its too much hassle and I had far more important things to do.
Over the years I’ve had a port on one of the 14 Cisco SG200 switches I was managing die for no reason after being in place for years. I’ve had a squirrel eat through a fibre cable linking two buildings after the site manger blocked a hole trapping it. I have had a PC that wouldn’t logon to the domain because someone installed iTunes on it and Bonjour was spamming the network.
And I’ve had to deal with incompetent CCTV installers that were given carte Blanche to do as they please; they caused IP conflicts with the PC’s by setting static IP addresses on the cams and also connected CCTV cams directly to the back of existing network sockets rather than running new cables to the comms cab. Something would break every time they were on site but they were the council approved CCTV installers that the Business Manager insisted on using.
Electricians and CCTV installers that touch networks need their hands chopping off.
“when i plug directly into the switch in the diagram i get no drop outs”
If I take this at face value there are four remaining variables:
1. The faceplate in your room.
2. The cable run between the faceplate in your room and the faceplate in your brothers room.
3. The patch cables between the faceplates and your PC / the switch.
4. The port you are connecting to on the switch in your brothers room.
1&2 – Every socket and RJ45 plug the “electrician” terminated needs to be re-terminated by someone that is competent. Its called twisted pair for a reason only the very end of the cable is supposed to be untwisted when you terminate the cable. Multiple people in this thread have told you the wiring is bad.
If you’re lucky there will be enough slack in the cable to do this after cutting the end off it also assumes the cable run hasn’t been damaged somewhere; otherwise you will need to run new cables at which point I suggest you run 3 new Cat 6 or 6a cables from your floor to the ground floor.
3 – In some pics you show a flat cable from your PC but in the ones where you bypass the structured cabling and cable direct to the switch you use a round cable. Perfectly understandable if the flat cable isn’t long enough or is routed under carpets etc. But its another variable and the flat cable could be bad even if it worked at 1 Gbps.
4 – When using the structured cabling the downstairs uplink and your PC are using the 10Gb ports on the switch and you are probably using the 2.5 Gb ports when testing with a direct cable. Yes the 10 Gb ports should auto negotiate and run at 2.5 but its another variable, nothing you have runs at 10Gb so just use the 2.5Gb ports.
You have Cat 5E cables in your wall the spec says they will run at 1Gbps at up to 100 meters, Cat 6 10Gbps at 33-55 meters, Cat 6A 10Gbps up to 100 meters.
The newer 2.5Gbps standard is designed to run on older cabling that can’t run at the full 10Gbps without having to rewire entire buildings so if your Cat 5e cabling had been installed correctly it would have “probably” worked. There are even people running 10Gbps on short runs of Cat5E (out of spec) but your wiring is some of the skankiest **** I’ve ever seen.
If you don’t want to pay someone £400+ a day to re-terminate and possibly run new cables then drill a hole in the wall between your rooms and poke the cable you are using for testing through the wall and plug it straight in to the switch (same as you are doing now but with the benefit of being able to close your doors).
- Regards
A former IT Operations Manager that would sometimes install the odd network socket but usually sub contracted the work because its too much hassle and I had far more important things to do.
Over the years I’ve had a port on one of the 14 Cisco SG200 switches I was managing die for no reason after being in place for years. I’ve had a squirrel eat through a fibre cable linking two buildings after the site manger blocked a hole trapping it. I have had a PC that wouldn’t logon to the domain because someone installed iTunes on it and Bonjour was spamming the network.
And I’ve had to deal with incompetent CCTV installers that were given carte Blanche to do as they please; they caused IP conflicts with the PC’s by setting static IP addresses on the cams and also connected CCTV cams directly to the back of existing network sockets rather than running new cables to the comms cab. Something would break every time they were on site but they were the council approved CCTV installers that the Business Manager insisted on using.
Electricians and CCTV installers that touch networks need their hands chopping off.
