Power Tools & General Tools Recommendations & Advice

There is fairy big thread on this topic on the front page. Check trade counters like screwfix and tool station. There are some online specific tool shops as well that stock all of the big brands.

I can’t say I have noted many great ‘deals’ as of late, probably in high demand due to lockdown.
 
If you're getting a whole set then you could look at cordless and 2/3 batteries to cover the lot (assuming homogeneity of battery across the brand). If only occasional DIY use you may find corded a better long-term investment as no batteries to die/replace/have to remember to charge first etc. Amazon is not nec the best place. Make your list and then hawk sales and offers.
 
For good deals find your local independent dealer and watch out for trade rep days. For instance in South Wales Data Power Tools have 2 or 3 reps days a year and you can get some very tasty deals but it tends not to be the bottom of the range stuff. Otherwise you’re off to HotUkDeals and scanning for DeWalt, Milwaukee etc deals and hitting them as they come up.
 
Thanks chaps. I'm DIY only so don't need anything super fancy! We're moving house in March, though, and I'd like to build some stuff (desk, shelves, maybe kitchen table). I did find a fairly appealing deal on B&Q - buy one of the Ryobi kits and get another tool free, so I might pick that up. You can get a drill driver, impact driver, and circular saw with a pair of batteries for £200. Then you get a free tool, most of which aren't great, they're battery chargers etc, but they do have a palm sander which was on my list.
 
Ryobi is absolutely fine, nothing wrong with it IMO, certainly for DIY. The advantage with their stuff is that they do pretty much one of everything that uses the same battery.

Batteries are expensive but the tools are relatively cheap.
 
ik9000 said:
Does anyone know a decent random orbit sander that will connect easily to a Charles (big brother of Henry) hoover?
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mice used duct tape before - I have a numatic metal vac. Just one word of warning - the finest dust will still go through the hepa bags. A dust cyclone style vac works very well as a second filter - sucking air from the output (don’t seal it) helps reduce the fine dust - alternatively use a big fan blowing out of the room window.
 
thanks all, one Bosch orbit sander and vacuum attachments ordered, along with one makita angle grinder.

can anyone enlighten me as to what an impact driver is vs a regular hammer drill, and why I might need one if I arleady have an SDS drill and two regular 700w hammer drills?
 
ik9000 said:
thanks all, one Bosch orbit sander and vacuum attachments ordered, along with one makita angle grinder.

can anyone enlighten me as to what an impact driver is vs a regular hammer drill, and why I might need one if I arleady have an SDS drill and two regular 700w hammer drills?
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An impact driver has more torque, and hammers the back of a screw as it goes in. It puts more energy into the screwing process ie it's like being able to use a hammer drill to screw into things. With the right screws and materials, it means you don't need to drill pilot holes or swap bits, so it improves workflow. If you're doing any significant wood/screw projects, it's probably a worthwhile purchase.

Impact drivers are also going to be lighter to hold than a heavy duty SDS drill which is designed to get more power from the motor to the end of the drill bit, and not really meant for screwing in things (more of a masonry drill). Standard hammer drills are meant to hammer and drill, not hammer and screw.
 
A hammer drill hammers in and out where as an impact driver impacts in the circular motion with the screw.

An impact driver will get longer/thicker screws into denser material than a combi drill. Where your drill struggles the impact driver will just plough on with ease.

Your average combi drill will give up long before an impact driver does. Other than your work flow improvements, it’s pretty much essential if your working with chunky bits of wood like fencing or decking. So much quicker and easier getting the screws in. That said I wouldn’t use one in anything delicate.
 
It depends.

You may still need to drill pilot holes depending on the material, the size of the screw and the screw itself.

Pilot holes as much about stopping the material splitting than they are making it easier to get a screw in.
 
I think i now know why I'm having such issue getting the screws out of some of the skirtings and floorboards where the tradesmen were recently doing stuff. If they've used an impact driver it's no wonder the things are being so obstinate about coming out!
 
I'm looking to upgrade my router for one that will work with a table. I've got a table that I plan to convert into the router table, made a fence already and plan to buy a mitre track to embed in it shortly for ~£10, and I have a router plate in mind (kreg). However... I don't think I can fit the router I have to the table because of the switch (it doesn't have an off/on but is a plunge switch), and whilst it might be possible to rewire it I'd rather not. It's a no-name brand that isn't very powerful - it was given to me from a garage clear out - and I have been practising a fair bit with it and plus I'd quite like the opportunity to upgrade a little.

I don't really have many requirements in mind, but I'd like one powerful enough to deal with hardwood as I use that regularly, and I want one that is easy to change bits/adjust the bit height without having to go under the table, if that is at all possible (I realise I might need to drill extra holes in the router plate for that, this is not a problem).

Any suggestions?
 
ik9000 said:
I think i now know why I'm having such issue getting the screws out of some of the skirtings and floorboards where the tradesmen were recently doing stuff. If they've used an impact driver it's no wonder the things are being so obstinate about coming out!
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Today I used my recently purchased Neji Saurus screw removal pliers. Fantastic bit of kit for a tenner.

I had several stripped screws that needed removing. The Neji removed them with ease. Highly recommended.
 
Gredawarha said:
Today I used my recently purchased Neji Saurus screw removal pliers. Fantastic bit of kit for a tenner.

I had several stripped screws that needed removing. The Neji removed them with ease. Highly recommended.
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those look very good if the quality is decent I'm getting some. Question is what size(s)!

I'm not sure they'd help with the floorboards though. The screws have been driven in so hard they've countersunk themselves and the wood has mushroomed back over the heads around the edges.
 
ik9000 said:
those look very good if the quality is decent I'm getting some. Question is what size(s)!

I'm not sure they'd help with the floorboards though. The screws have been driven in so hard they've countersunk themselves and the wood has mushroomed back over the heads around the edges.
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I went with the PZ-58, don't think I would want anything bigger or smaller.

If you can maybe chisel out enough around the screw to get the pliers in that might work. Sounds like you've got a tough job on. Mine were exposed so not too difficult.
 
Gredawarha said:
I went with the PZ-58, don't think I would want anything bigger or smaller.

If you can maybe chisel out enough around the screw to get the pliers in that might work. Sounds like you've got a tough job on. Mine were exposed so not too difficult.
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thanks I'll give them a try. I've been cutting back the overlapping wood with a stanley knife and then using a power drill to reverse them out where the head is still intact, but several have mushed-up heads where the cross-head has lost the definition so the bit just free spins inside the head of the screw instead of engaging properly. These pliers might be the answer. Thank you for the suggestion!
 
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