Power Tools & General Tools Recommendations & Advice

rah^ said:
I have an ok sized garden (8m x 35m)

Recommendations for a replacement? Not fussed on battery / cabled or even a petrol powered

Budget is around the £300 mark top end
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I've got a Worx cordless that I bought a few years ago. It's Chinese made and I would call it functional rather than fine engineering. It does the job though for a small garden. Going cordless makes the job much quicker as you don't have to faff around with cables. You've got a bigger garden though so you would need a few sets of batteries.

There's a list of lawnmower brand websites here.

See also the EasyLawnMowing YouTube channel:

 
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Spent a lot of yesterday sanding spindles and banisters with mine. Highly recommended, to the point of I have a corded one but bought the cordless one as well.

Trying to not buy extra tools from there now though!
 
chimponarope said:
Spent a lot of yesterday sanding spindles and banisters with mine. Highly recommended, to the point of I have a corded one but bought the cordless one as well.

Trying to not buy extra tools from there now though!
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I've got this job to do in a few weeks. I've got a cheapo corded oscillating tool. How has that coped with your sanding?
 
Looking to replace my old Dewalt 18v combi drill (basic model with 2AH battery) and thought it would be a good idea to also get an impact driver as well.

Looking at the following twin packs at Screwfix as they have got 10% off app purchases this month.

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Which would you go for?
 
I have the Milwaukee set but quite a bit older. Works great. I am sure the Dewalt stuff is good to.

The only thing I'd consider starting out again, is the wider ecosystem. For example the Milwaukee mower is like $lol. And so is the Dewalt one IIRC. So Makita would be my go-to nowadays....simply because they have a range more cost effective.

If you aren't ever bothered about mowers/strimmers etc. I'd go with whatever colour you prefer.
Edit: this one https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dlx2336f01-18v-2-x-3-0ah-li-ion-lxt-cordless-twin-pack/255kh
 
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~Mike~ said:
That's what I was thinking but the batteries I have are getting on a bit now.
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Still worth having a spare and an extra charge, IMO. While I'm sure brand fans on both sides would claim otherwise, I doubt there's enough difference between DeWalt and Milwaukee to make much difference to you, so go with the one you have some stuff for. Unless you think your existing DeWalt sucks that is :)
 
Mr Jack said:
Still worth having a spare and an extra charge, IMO. While I'm sure brand fans on both sides would claim otherwise, I doubt there's enough difference between DeWalt and Milwaukee to make much difference to you, so go with the one you have some stuff for. Unless you think your existing DeWalt sucks that is :)
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This basically.

Look at the wider ecosystem and if there is any thing specific that takes your fancy.

Otherwise, if it’s just a drill for home DIY and nothing more, you could probably get away with something cheaper or just buy whichever colour you like best from the main line brands.

You can flip your existing dewalt on Facebook very easily. People pay good money for old dewalt kit.
 
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~Mike~ said:
Which would you go for?
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You can't go wrong with either, they're both decent brands. Personally I would go with DeWalt because I see these tools being used a lot on the TV shows I watch on Quest, and there must be something in that. I also prefer yellow to red. The only significant difference between them I noticed is the DeWalt has 3.0Ah batteries whereas the Milwaukee has 4.0Ah, which means the Milwaukee batteries may last longer.
 
radderfire said:
Personally I would go with DeWalt because I see these tools being used a lot on the TV shows I watch on Quest, and there must be something in that.
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Usually that's sponsorship, though. Same with a lot of YouTube channels. The manufacturers know that people will favour stuff they see being used and so they sponsor or provide free tools to get their stuff seen.
 
Look at the key tools you are likely to buy and ensure both do all these tools. Other than that both are great brands. As are Makita. I was actually deciding between Makita and Milwaukee last year as both make great track saws. I went with Milwaukee in the end but am sure I would have been happy with any of them.
 
Two questions:

1. Impact driver extensions - I have had trouble using my driver in tight spaces working underfloor repairing joists etc. Im about to start work in the loft so thinking to buy an extension bit - they aren't expensive so I could get both sizes but there is 300mm or 150mm available. Should I just get both?

2. Circular saw or plunge saw/track. Would be good to have one of these tools I think, for cutting my timbers and sheet materials. But I don't know whether to get a freehand circular saw or a saw with a track. Also whether to get corded tool (cheaper) or go for cordless to use with my existing Dewalt batteries.
 
For cutting boards I used the Circ (Milwaukee M18 was under 150 I think). For cutting sheet material to a finer tolerance, you have no chance with a circ IMO.

My Makita tracksaw was £380 tho, versus £150.

Driver extensions get both, and think whether you need the 90 degree adaptor. Milwaukee do a universal one for 30 quid which is the nuts
 
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dlockers said:
Milwaukee do a universal one for 30 quid which is the nuts
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Do you have a link please?

dlockers said:
For cutting sheet material to a finer tolerance, you have no chance with a circ IMO.
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In all honesty I won't need fine tolerances, it will be OSB boards for flooring my loft and eventually sheeting the big shed Im going to build in the garden. I understand that a circular saw can still be run along a guide rail clamped to the workpiece to enable a reasonably straight line?

A Dewalt DCS391 circular saw is £110 bare, I only have 2AH batteries though would i need bigger?
 
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danlightbulb said:
Do you have a link please?


In all honesty I won't need fine tolerances, it will be OSB boards for flooring my loft and eventually sheeting the big shed Im going to build in the garden. I understand that a circular saw can still be run along a guide rail clamped to the workpiece to enable a reasonably straight line?
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It'll be fine if you get a half decent one. Most come with a guide. The trick is to start it perfect and then the blade keeps it straight. It is normally called a "skill saw" and the clue is in the first name. Even a straight edge wont save you from a crap "start".
 
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