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PPT? TDC? EDC? PTC? WTF?

Bit of an update for you all. I contacted AMD who got me to test a few things take screenshots and send them my dxdiag. They said there is a problem with the CPU as it shouldn't be getting that hot. Just returned it today for a refund and bought another one. It'll be a day or two before I have it but hopefully, that will be the end of my high-temperature woes.
I'll update again when I have tested it and hopefully have lowered temps.
 
Right, so, new CPU in and temps are a lot better. I'm hitting 80C under load using Handbrake, which I've heard is good for putting your CPU through its paces. At idle it is sitting at around 30-40C so I'm a happy camper again. Just need to figure out all the stuff in the title of this post. You guys have been an enormous help and I can't wait to try the overclocking features to see if I can push things a little further.
 
The PE setting on ASUS boards set the values listed in the sig. If you can find the values ASUS uses for each PE level, you could apply them manually. I know they're out there somewhere, I think I saw them in a X370 Taichi owners thread.
 
I've got the chip setup now, under water (custom).

I've set my RAM to 3200MHz 14-14-14-51 @ 1.35v

All good so far, and now I'm wondering if I should bother overclocking the chip. Doesn't Ryzen do this itself on the fly?

What say you, OcUK?
 
String said:
I've got the chip setup now, under water (custom).

I've set my RAM to 3200MHz 14-14-14-51 @ 1.35v

All good so far, and now I'm wondering if I should bother overclocking the chip. Doesn't Ryzen do this itself on the fly?

What say you, OcUK?
Click to expand...

It does but it wouldnt hurt to turn cpu voltage down if youve left it on auto, i have mine at 1.32 and its been great, all core boost to 4.2 and max boost to 4.35(probably only 2 cores i believe) On auto it can put over 1.5v in it which is a bit insane :D
 
Grandmaster Fap! said:
It does but it wouldnt hurt to turn cpu voltage down if youve left it on auto, i have mine at 1.32 and its been great, all core boost to 4.2 and max boost to 4.35(probably only 2 cores i believe) On auto it can put over 1.5v in it which is a bit insane :D
Click to expand...

So just drop the vcore and leave everything else?

Also, should I not bother with the game mode thing in Master?
 
String said:
So just drop the vcore and leave everything else?

Also, should I not bother with the game mode thing in Master?
Click to expand...

Yeah pretty much, with good cooling it will look after itself, if you are using a custom loop id expect it to boost quite well. Dont bother with Ryzen Master, it just seems to want to throw volts at stuff so everything looks good, i always clock in bios and in windows just have HWInfo, CPUZ and Afterburner open to tell me whats up :)

EDIT: Asus AI Suite 3 will give you better info and options than Ryzen Master but even so i dont use that either, i just let the board and the chip do its stuff on a little volts as possible.
 
Hardware monitor in windows is good at showing which cores are being used. HWInfo will show you what all your cores currently boost to while using CineBench etc but will state that all your cores are hitting 4.35 at maximum, which they are, just not all at the same time :D

Passmark is good for looking at single core performance.
 
Hey there, I may be new to the new OCUK forums but definitely not a newbie here, Had an account way back when OCUK was first around, created a new account due to inaccessibility to my old email. Just a Tip for those of you that seem to think 550Watts is enough to "get by" it's not you have to seriously pay attention to the amperage and wattage on your setup. The best rule of thumb is to take your base highest recommended wattage from the packaging and add 200 watts to the base Plus 100 watts for every additional major component, 850Watts minimum is my standard minimum recommendation. I also recommend something a bit better than a corsair cooler to use on your Ryzen Based system. Pro tip, Disable Turbo, Disable Cool and quiet, Max out your fans and just let everything run properly. do not ever use CoolNQuiet as this is and always has been a problem spot for both AMD's version and Intel's version with processors. It doesn't do the best job in the world and you risk a lot especially with your brand new or nearly brand new 2700x processor which currently retails for about 340 USD +- on newegg.
I myself just recently became a proud part of the 2700x club. I been doing some Overclocking of my own, AMD has always been easy to OC and the new Zen Architecture is a welcome change that makes it even easier. I just got backpay from my SSA/SSI and dropped about 2900.00 US on upgrades. my specs included a slightly upgraded kit of 32gb of DDR4 3400 from DDR4-3200, an upgraded PSU 1kw Antec HCP, Ryzen 7 2700x, Thermal Take W100/P200 case, Two Samsung Evo 860 500GB SSD's in Raid Zero, and an additional 8TB Seagate Barracuda Pro 7200RPM 256MB Cache HD along with a new Blueray burner for additional Hardcopy backup. I also purchased parts for and built a custom soft tube loop utilizing two 560mm koolance Radiators, 6 Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 fans, a Koolance CPU-400A block, 1/2" 13mm ID tubing, compression fittings are great but I prefer and opted for 1/2"13mm barbs. I used wormdrive clamps as they give a better grip and seal on the tube, instead of spring clamps. If you like I can upload pictures of each to define the difference. The TT W100/P200 case system is a beast and not recommended for those that are new to building computers unless you like assembling things and appreciate the fact that you're literally building your entire system. Please be aware that my explanation of what I have put inside here is a very extreme setup and not really necessary for daily operation. A Single 280MM radiator or 240MM radiator will do just fine for most systems. I have a rare use case scenario where my system is used for multiple things including DJ work as well as Twitch. Continued in next post :)
 
Note to forum admins: I know part of this is or may be slightly off topic but my system specs are important to this subject as I will be referring to the processor and such during further discussions. Liquid cooling was also brought up and even though I spent a bit over 600USD on my custom loop you can actually spend much less on a loop and get about the same performance. I bring to the table here at OCUK well over 20 years worth of experience in the Tech industry including building custom PC's I'd like to remind the admins and others that Amperage is just as important as wattage due to component needs such as graphics cards. There are those that will attempt to argue with me and start a war over this I will have no part in arguing the reasons and reasoning behind the amperage issues. The simple and easy answer to get it out of the way before it becomes a problem is this: About 10 years ago The GeForce 8 and 9 cards came out, with those cards came an amperage need over wattage, this has been forgotten over time and people have placated back to the old maxim and standard of X-Wattage is enough. The question of power supplies was brought up and my experience with this and the problems/Woes of the Amperage issue is well within reasoning of bringing this topic up and cutting any drama seekers or naysayers off before this starts. If the Admins wish I can make a guide in a new thread as to the caveats and differences between power supplies and why it is so important to ensure you have enough amperage on your rail/rails versus just paying attention to the wattage going into further detail with the way I describe and explain how/why using a household circuit breaker as the easiest way of describing things.
 
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